About barbara

I'm sure you are wondering how the blog was named, "The Enchanted Manor". Well, this blog will be like home to me and I wanted a name that reflected my different interests. During a normal day you can find me in several rooms of the house. Maybe I'll be in the living room decorating, or in my craft room working on a project, or in the dining room planning a great dinner party or at the computer in my office planning a great vacation. When you come to visit my blog you might find me in any room! Please return often for ideas and inspiration because this blog will be about decor, craft, celebration and travel. So, welcome to the "Enchanted Manor". Come in, sit down and let's talk!

Crown Jewels of England (Part One)

Coronation accessories

On a trip to England in 1998 we visited the Tower of London and were able to see the Crown Jewels of England.  They are held in a high security section in a building known as the Jewel House.  By definition, the Crown Jewels are the Coronation regalia used for the crowning ceremony of the English kings and queens since 1660.  More items were added to the collection over the centuries to include additional crowns acquired by various English monarchs, ceremonial robes, church and banquet plate, medals, insignia and the Royal christening font which will be used shortly for the new Royal baby, HRH Prince George of Cambridge.  (For additional information about this ceremony, please see this month’s Celebration post, A Royal Christening)

In this post, I will discuss the regalia used during the coronation ceremony which is traditional held at Westminster Abbey in London, England.  (For information about the remaining items in the collection, please check out the Crown Jewels of England (Part Two).  Britain is the only European monarchy to still use regalia for the consecration ceremony of their king or queens and these are considered the main items of the Crown Jewels collection.  The coronation ceremony of the English monarch has taken place in Westminster Abbey since William I was crowned in 1066.  At the time of his coronation centuries ago there was an older smaller church on the site in the City of Westminster (London) prior to the current large Gothic cathedral.  Most people will recognize Westminster Abbey as the place where Prince William, the Duke of Cambridge married Catherine Middleton in April 2011.

During the coronation ceremony the Sovereign will wear several different robes and garments.  The first item of clothing is normally a crimson surcoat and is worn for the duration of the ceremony under all the other robes. The Sovereign will enter Westminster Abbey wearing the surcoat under the Robe of State.  In 1953, for her coronation Queen Elizabeth II worn a specially made gown designed by Norman Hartnell instead of the surcoat.

The coronation regalia items used in the first portion of the service are strictly ceremonial and are used only during the procession that precedes the Sovereign’s entrance into the Abbey.  These items are listed below:

  • The Royal Maces – There are sixteen royal maces in the Crown Jewels collection but only two are carried into the Abbey on coronation day.  Originally royal maces were used as protection weapons for the king’s sergeant of arms and later they developed into ceremonial staffs that represent royal authority.  The maces are approximately 5 feet in length and the head of each is decorated with the royal arms, cyphers and symbols of the rose, thistle, harp and fluer-de-lys.
  • The Three Ceremonial Swords – There are a total of five swords used in the coronation ceremony.  Three swords are used during the coronation procession into the Abbey; they are the Sword of Spiritual Justice, the Sword of Temporal Justice and the Sword of Mercy.  The swords were originally made for Charles I coronation and are among the few items of the crown jewels that survived and were not melted down by Oliver Cromwell.  The first two swords symbolize the Sovereign’s relationship with the church and the state.  The third sword, known as Edward the Confessor’s Sword, has a blade that is broken and squared.  This sword represents the quality of mercy and according to legend the tip was broken off by an angel to prevent a wrongful killing.

Coronation ceremonial swords 1

  • The Sword of State – This sword is the largest in the crown jewels collection and is carried during the procession into the Abbey and later exchanged for the Jeweled Sword of Offering during a later portion of the coronation ceremony.  The sword dates back to 1678 and has a steel blade with a wooden velvet covered scabbard which is decorated with silver gilt floral symbols of the United Kingdom and features a crosspiece in the form of a lion and a unicorn.  The Sword of State is also carried during the State Opening of Parliament.
  • St. Edward’s Staff – The original staff is traditionally thought to have been used by Edward the Confessor, but it did not survive when Oliver Cromwell melted down most of the crown jewels.  In 1660 it was recreated for the coronation of Charles II and is carried in the procession but has no official function in the coronation ceremony.  The plain gold rod comes in three sections with a steel spike at the end and is 56” in length and weighs 55 ounces.

After the procession, the Sovereign is formally introduced to the congregation and recites the coronation oath.  Next, the Sovereign is dressed in an anointing gown made of plain white cloth that fastens in the back, and the Archbishop of Canterbury uses holy water to anoint the Sovereign’s hands, breast and head.  The regalia items used in this portion of the coronation ceremony are listed below:

  • The Ampulla – which dates back to 1661, is a golden eagle flask which holds the consecrated holy oil which is poured into the coronation spoon to anoint the Sovereign.
  • The Coronation Spoon – The silver gilt spoon decorated with pearls is the oldest piece and dates back to St Edward coronation in 1349 when it was first recorded as part of the regalia.

Ampulla and coronation spoon

After the anointing ceremony, the Sovereign puts on a fresh clean tunic, known as the colobium sindonis, which is a loose white sleeveless undergarment made of linen and edged with a lace border that opens at the sides.  Between 1661 and 1838, new robes were customarily made for each monarch.  Since Queen Victoria’s coronation, all her successors have worn the same robe.  The following is a list of the other robes and garments worn during the investiture portion of the coronation ceremony:

  • The Supertunica – The Supertunica was made for the coronation of George V in 1911 and has been worn by George VI and Queen Elizabeth II.  It is full length long sleeved gold silk garment which opens in the front and is lined with red silk which is fastened with an embroidered belt with a gold buckle decorated with roses, thistles and shamrocks.
  • The Stole – The Stole is worn over the Supertunica and is a long narrow band of gold silk, lined with red silk and fringed ends.  Originally made for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953, the Stole is embroidered in gold and colored threads and designed with symbols of the United Kingdom and Commonwealth.
  • The Imperial Mantle – The Imperial Mantle was made for the coronation of George IV in 1821 and is designed in the style of earlier ones worn by the Tudor and Stuart monarchs, it is worn over the Supertunica and the Stole.  The Imperial Mantle is made of gold cloth, lined with red silk and woven with colored threads designed with a pattern of crowns, eagles, fleur-de-lis, roses, thistles and shamrock held together at the chest with a gold clasp in the form of an eagle.

Supertunica, stole and spurs

During the final portion of the coronation ceremony, the Sovereign is presented with various regalia ornaments and these items are listed below:

  • The Jeweled Sword of Offerings – This sword is the only one actually presented to the Sovereign by the Archbishop of Canterbury during the coronation ceremony.  Originally made for the coronation of George IV in 1911, the blade is made of steel with the hilt and the scabbard decorated with thousands of precious stones of diamonds, rubies and sapphires.
  • The Spurs – The Spurs date back to 1661 and were made for the coronation of Charles II.  Currently the Spurs are presented to the Sovereign to represent knighthood and chivalry; for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II the Spurs were briefly presented to her, never worn but symbolically placed on the altar.  The golden spurs are each designed with Tudor roses with a spike in the center and narrow velvet straps are attached to the buckles with gold embroidery thread.

the Orb, armills and coronation ring

  • The Armills – The Armills are symbolic of the Sovereign’s sincerity and wisdom.  For the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II, she was presented with 22 carat gold Armills that are lined in red velvet with Tudor rose clasps as a gift from the Commonwealth governments.
  • The Orbs – There are two orbs in the crown jewels regalia, the Sovereign’s Orb and Queen Mary II Orb.  During the coronation ceremony, the Sovereign’s Orb is presented by the Archbishop and placed in the Sovereign’s right hand to represent supreme power and independent authority over the country; it was made for Charles II coronation in 1661 and has been used in all subsequent coronations.  The Orb is a golden hallow sphere 6.5” in diameter and decorated with a band of precious stones and pearls across the center and a half-band across the top.  As the Sovereign leaves the Abbey after the conclusion of the coronation ceremony the Orb is carried in their left hand.

The Queen Mary II Orb was made in 1689 for the coronation of William and Mary who came to the throne of England as equal King and Queen and reign jointly.  Two sets of regalia were needed for their coronation and this second orb was made for Queen Mary II and is smaller in diameter at 5.75” and is also decorated with precious stones and pearls.

  • The Coronation Rings – There are two different coronation rings in the regalia, the Sovereign’s Ring and the Queen Consort’s Ring.  During the coronation ceremony, the Sovereign’s Ring is place by the Archbishop on the fourth finger of the Sovereign’s right hand and represents kingly dignity.  The ring was originally made for the coronation of William IV in 1831 and has been used at the subsequent coronations from Edward VII through Queen Elizabeth II.  Queen Victoria had very small fingers so an exact replica of the Sovereign’s Ring was made in a smaller size for her coronation.  The Sovereign’s Ring is an octagonal sapphire set in gold with an overlay of four rectangular cut and one square cut rubies finished with a border of diamonds and an additional diamond on each side of the band.

The Queen Consort’s Ring was made for Queen Adelaide in 1831 for the coronation of her husband William IV and has been worn subsequently by Queen Alexandra, Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother.  The Queen Consort’s Ring is a rectangular ruby set in gold surrounded by diamonds with smaller rubies decorating the sides of the band.

  • The Sovereign’s Sceptre with Cross – This sceptre, which symbolizes temporal power, is presented to the Sovereign near the end of the coronation ceremony and is held in their right hand.  The Sovereign’s Sceptre with the Cross was originally made in 1661 for Charles II.  For the coronation of George V it was redesigned to incorporate the Cullinan I which is the largest flawless cut diamond in the world at over 530 carats.  (For additional information about the spectacular Cullinan diamonds used in the Sovereign’s Sceptre and the Imperial State Crown, please check out the Crown Jewels of England (Part Two).
  • The Sceptre with the Dove – The Sceptre with the Dove symbolizes spiritual power and is presented to the Sovereign to be held in their left hand.

Two additional scepters in the Crown Jewels regalia collection were used for the coronations when a queen consort is crowned, these include the smaller Queen Consort’s Sceptre with Cross and Ivory Rod Dove.

Swords and Sceptres

Finally the dramatic end of the coronation ceremony is when the Archbishop of Canterbury approaches the Sovereign, and solemnly holds the St. Edward’s Crown high for a few brief moments and then reverently places it upon the Sovereign’s head.  This act constitutes the actual crowning of the Sovereign who symbolically takes possession of the kingdom and then receives the homage of the other royal members, peers and clergy who have gathered in Westminster Abbey to witness the coronation ceremony.

  • The St. Edward’s Crown – This crown is one of the most important pieces of the coronation regalia and was originally made in 1661.  The St. Edward’s Crown is a solid gold frame formed in a circular designed with four crosses, four fluer-de-lis with two crossing arches topped with another cross.  The crown has 444 precious stones, including diamonds, sapphires, amethysts and topazes; and weighs almost five pounds.

St Edward's Crown

 

For more information about some of the remaining items in the royal collection, please check out the Crown Jewels of England (Part Two) which goes into details about such items as the Imperial State Crown, the George IV State Diadem, the Crown of Mary Modena, Queen Victoria’s small diamond crown and the Crown of Queen Elizabeth.  Other items in the collection also include several tiaras, necklaces and earring sets and a variety of pins worn by the previous British Royal family.

Mary Poppins – the book, movie and play

Mary Poppins at Disneyland

Today marks the theatrical release of the classic Disney movie, “Mary Poppins”, on August 26, 1964.  Living in California at the time, I remember my Mom taking us to the premiere at the Grauman’s Chinese Theater in Hollywood.  It was a star-studded event and seemed so glamorous and it was very exciting to see Julie Andrews and Dick Van Dyke the stars of the movie but the best part was seeing Walt Disney!!  What a wonderful memory!!

The Mary Poppins booksHelen Lyndon Goff (born: August 9,1899  died: April 23,1996) was an Austrailian novelist, actress and writer that emigrated to England in 1924 where she wrote under the pen name P.L. Travers.  In 1933 she began writing a first book in a series of children’s books about a magical English nanny called the Mary Poppins.  The first book was published in 1934 followed by several more books throughout the years with the last book being published in 1989.  Briefly, the story was about the Banks family who lived at Number 17 Cherry Tree Lane in London and their extraordinary nanny that blows into their lives on the winds of the east arriving with her carpetbag and umbrella with the parrot head handle.  Quickly the children learn that Mary Poppins might appear to be stern, vain and very proper but she really has a magical quality that becomes apparent as the story unfolds.  But, Mary Poppins is only there temporarily and when she is satisfied that her work has been done teaching the Banks family some important lessons she leaves just as suddenly as she first appeared on their doorstep but now leaves on the winds west.

Walt Disney attempted to purchase the film rights as early as 1938; his daughters had enjoyed the Mary Poppins books he had made a promise the story into a movie.  Travers had long been resistant to any film adaptations of her Mary Poppins books and she had felt that a film version would not be able to do justice to the character and she definitely did not want an animated cartoon version.  Finally in 1961 Disney had persuaded Travers to consent to granting the film rights with full script approval.  Once Disney obtained the film rights to Mary Poppins the planning, composing the music and movie productions took over two years.  Julie Andrew was cast as Mary Poppins and Dick Van Dyke as Bert the charming chimneysweep.  The movie was based on the adventures of Mary Poppins and the Bank family that were taken from the first three books.  The memorable songs in the movie were written by the famous Sherman Brothers, who can forget “Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious”.

Travers had a very rocky relationship with Disney and felt that she was treated in a discourteous manner at the film’ premiere and ultimately was dissatisfied with the 1964 movie specifically the animated portion of the movie and she refused to allow any of her other stories filmed.     Travers eventually agreed to sell the stage rights to the London theater producer Cameron Mackintosh.  The agreement given (per her will) was that only English-born writers, specifically no Americans and in particular no one involved in the previous film production, were to directly be involved in the creative process of the stage musical.  The world premiere of the Disney Theatrical stage adaption took place at the Bristol Hippodrome in England in 2004 and later the production was moved to London’s West End were it ran for three years before closing in 2008.  In 2006 the musical was performed on Broadway in the United States and the show ran until 2013.  (Our family was very fortunate to see the musical performed by one of the national companies in 2009 at the Cadillac Theater in Chicago, IL – it was wonderful performance and thoroughly entertaining!)

Cadillac Palace - Chicago, Il 2009 Johnes family at Mary Poppins the musical

There is a great book called “Mary Poppins, She Wrote” by Valerie Lawson published in 2008 which is a biography about Travers.  The book was originally published in 199 under the title, “Out of the Sky She Came”.   The new Disney movie, “Saving Mr. Banks” starring Tom Hanks as Disney and Emma Thompson as Travers that is being released in December 2013 is based on this book.  The movie shifts focus between Travers childhood years in Australia, then during the negotiation process with Disney and follows through with the making of the movie in the 1960s.  The title of the book/movie refers to Travers father who was the inspiration for Mr. Banks.

“Mary Poppins” Disney Trivia

  • Originally Disney considered Mary Martin or Angela Lansbury for the part of Mary Poppins given the stern portrayal of the character in the books.
  • When Disney had seen Julie Andrews on the Ed Sullivan show in 1961 singing the songs from “Camelot” which she was currently starring in the Broadway musical productions and he knew that he might have his Mary Poppins.  A month later Disney flew to New York to see Andrews backstage after one of her shows to speak with her about the movie.  Andrews was reluctant, holding out for a part in the Warner Brothers movie adaption of “My Fair Lady”, and Disney invited her out to California to visit the Walt Disney Studios and consider the part.  Still hesitate to play Mary Poppins she only agreed to play the role after Warner Brothers announced they had cast Audrey Hepburn in “My Fair Lady”.
  • Travers was very adamant that in the film version of her stories there should be no suggestion of any romance between Mary Poppins and Bert.
  • Over 100 glass and matte paintings were used in the film’s production to recreate the London skyline.
  • Prior to the premiere of “Mary Poppins”, the last time Disney attended a movie premiere was in 1937 for “Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs”.
  • Walt Disney regarded “Mary Poppins” as one of the finest achievements of his movie career.
  • At the 1964 Golden Globes Awards, Julie Andrews won the Best Actress award for “Mary Poppins” and in her acceptance speech she very sweetly “thanked” Jack Warner for his faith in her, this was a subtle yet classy jab at him for not casting her in the movie “My Fair Lady”.  Andrews also won the Oscar for Best Actress at the 1964 Academy Awards.
  • Some of the filming of the 2001 Disney movie “Princess Diaries”, in which Julie Andrew played Queen Clarisse Renald,  was shot on the same Disney sound stage in Burbank that “Mary Poppins” was filmed.  There is a plaque on the soundstage to commemorate the 1964 musical.
  • At Disneyland in Anaheim, CA there is the King Arthur Carrousel in Fantasyland.  The lead horse is named Jingles with beautiful carvings that include straps of jingle bells hanging from her saddle, she was Walt’s favorite.  The horse is very similar to the one that Mary Poppins rides in the fantasy section of the movie.  For Disneyland’s 50th anniversary in 2005 Jingles was repainted entirely in gold and trimmed in 18k gold leaf.

Jingles   Jingles - Disneyland 50th Anniversary

  • Then later Jingles received a refurbishment the saddle decoration details were painted on the saddle blanket with ironic parrot head umbrella from Mary Poppins.  On the knee pad of Jingles there is a crest that is divided into four sections with a monogram “JA” (for Julie Andrews), a robin perched at the top high button shoes, the silhouette of Mary Poppins flying and the number 50 for the 50 Magical Years of this original Disneyland attraction.  Jingles was officially dedicated to Julie Andrews in 2008 as “Honorary Ambassador to Disneyland and the title is painted beneath the Hidden Mickey on the horses’ saddle.

Jingles - Julie Andrews

Personal Note: Disney characters can be found daily throughout Disneyland and they will stop to greet guests and sign autographs.  While we were visiting Disneyland in 2005 we saw the characters of Mary Poppins and Bert.  Cassie approached them for their autograph and  Mary Poppins had her sit on her lap and she started singing “Feed the Birds” from the movie – it was such a sweet and wonderful moment and this is the photo taken on that day!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

Travel – Hawaii (the 50th State)

Hawaii 1In celebration of this date in history when Hawaii officially became the 50th State, I would like to share the history of the islands and offer some travel suggestions for each of the main islands that have become known as the Hawaiian Islands.

Hawaii became a state on August 21, 1959 and is the 50th state of the United Sates.  The state is unusual because unlike the “mainland” United States, the state of Hawaii is actually a group of six main volcanic islands that are located in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.  The islands are Hawaii (also known as the Big Island), Maui, Oahu, Kauai, Molokai and Lanai.  Several smaller islands are also included within the state of Hawaii and are not as well known as the major islands in the chain and generally are not included as tourist destinations.

Hawaii Tiki godAnthropologists have found archaeological evidence that dates the earliest human inhabitants on the islands of Hawaii were originally Polynesians from the Marquesas Islands and they arrived on the islands as early as 300-500 AD, there is an ongoing debate regarding a more specific date of the first arrival.  The Polynesians arrived on the shores of Hawaii in double hulled canoes which travel over 3,500 miles across the Pacific Ocean from their original home.  Living in this new land, they lived in harmony with nature and were able to provide seafood to eat while still being careful to conserve the fish in the reefs or streams and to never abuse the land which provided their crops.  These new Hawaiians eventually learned to govern themselves under a set of rules called the Kapu system, and the first chief, Pa’ao, introduced the building of heiaus (Hawaiian temples) and the practice of human sacrifices.

In 1778, Captain James Cook, a British explorer, sailed into Waimea Bay on Kauai becoming the first European to visit the Hawaiian Islands.  Cook returned to the islands again in 1779, this time sailing into Kealakekua Bay on the “Big Island” of Hawaii.  After eight weeks of exploration of the islands, Cook prepared to leave but the foremast of his ship broke and he returned to Kealakekua Bay for repairs. At this point, tensions suddenly grew between the Hawaiians and Cook’s crew and eventually a group of Hawaiian took one of Cook’s smaller boats.  In retaliation Cook’s crew attempted to take Kalaniopuu, the Hawaiian chief, as a hostage in hopes to reclaim their boat in exchange. To prevent their King from being abducted, the Hawaiians attacked Cook and his men as they tried to launch their boat in an attempt to flee and in the confrontation Cook was killed.

King Kamehameha IAt this point in the history of Hawaii, each island still had several chiefs and there was no single ruler that controlled all the islands.  Then, a young chief named Kamehameha set out to conquer the other chiefs.  By 1791, he defeated the chief on the Big Island and by 1795 he had conquered and gained control of the islands of Maui, Molokai, Lanai and Oahu.  In 1810 the chief that ruled Kauai finally pledged his loyalty to Kamehameha who finally came to rule as the first King of Hawaii.  Kamehameha ruled Hawaii with complete control and tried to prepare and protect the Hawaiian people for the Europeans that were starting to come to the islands in increasing numbers.  Unfortunately the King could not protect them from disease and the Hawaiian population decreased by 80% from influenza, typhoid fever and measles during this period.

In 1820 the first Christian missionaries arrived and changed the islands forever.  With the end of the Kapu system and their conversion to Christianity, the ancient Hawaiian temples were destroyed and replace with Christian churches.  The missionaries also brought reading and writing to Hawaii, which was important because prior to this time there was no written language of the Hawaiian people.  In 1840 the Hawaiian Parliament and the Supreme Court were formed and a constitution was written.  By 1843, land was available for purchase and for the first time foreigners could own land on Hawaiian Islands.

Hawaiian coat of arms 1    Iolani Palace

By this time in the history of Hawaii, there had been a succession of Kings who lived in their own houses during their reigns until finally in 1882 Iolani Palace was built on Oahu and it became the official residence of the Hawaiian monarchy.  King Kalakaua was the first monarch to live in the palace.  During the past decades, Hawaii had experienced a great agricultural boom which brought many immigrants from Japan, China and the Philippines to work in the sugarcane and pineapple fields which were under the control of American entrepreneurs; also the U.S. military became a presence in the region during this same period.  Unfortunately, this foreign influence greatly dominated the islands and the King sadly became aware that the Hawaiian native culture was starting to be lost and he set a course to preserve the Hawaiian traditions and customs.  When he died in 1891 his sister became Queen Lilliuokalani.  During her brief reign she attempted to institute a new Hawaiian constitution that would strengthen the Hawaiian monarchy and reduce the oppression of native Hawaiian people, the conflict between royalty and the native Hawaiian and the American businessman only continued to grow.  Finally, in order to protect their businesses, the American entrepreneurs seized control of the islands with the aid of the U.S. military.  In 1893 Queen Liliuokalani was overthrown, imprisoned and forced to sign a document relinquishing her power.  She underwent a public trail and was found guilty, fined and sentenced to 5 years of hard labor.  This sentence was later changed to house arrest in the Iolani Palace where she was forced to live in only one of the rooms, she served an additional year under house arrest but the remaining condition was that she was forbidden from ever leaving the island of Oahu.

King Kalakaua Queen Liliuokalani

At this period in the history of Hawaii, the Republic of Hawaii was formed and eventually in 1898 the U.S. government claimed the Hawaiian Islands as a U.S. territory.  Then sixty years later in 1958 the voters of Hawaii approved statehood and on August 21, 1959 Hawaii officially became the 50th state of the United States.

Jones Hawaii 2008

Travel recommendations for Hawaii

Hawaii’s diverse natural scenery of sandy beaches and clear ocean waters, tropical plants and beautiful flowers, active volcanoes and warm climate that is perfect for outdoor sports such as surfing and scuba diving or snorkeling, all these things make Hawaii a wonderful vacation destination.  We have been fortunate to have visited Oahu and the “Big Island” of Hawaii in October 2008, my husband had visited several of the islands before but this was the first trip for both my daughter and I to Hawaii.

Listed are the different islands and suggested sites to visit – (asterisk * designates a site that we visited and personally recommend)

Hawaii (the Big Island)

This island is the largest of the six islands with a total area of 4,028 miles.  That is the current estimated land mass because with three active volcanoes on the island it is continuing to grow in size.  The highest point on the island is the dormant volcano Mauna Kea at 13,796 feet.  The largest cities on the island are Hilo and Kona.

2008 - Hawaii Volcanoes National ParkSuggested places to visit are:

  • Hawaii Volcanoes National Park *
  • Mauna Kea Summit and Observatory
  • Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden*
  • Kealakekua Bay with the Captain Cook Monument.
  • Akaka Falls State Park*
  • Kaloko-Honokohau National Historial Park
  • Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park*

Maui

Maui is the second largest island with a total area of 727 miles; the highest point is Haleakala at 10,023 feet.  The largest town is Wailuku; other cities are Lahaina and Hana.  Maui is known for the beaches and lowlands with several mountain ranges divided by spectacular valleys.

Pools-of-OheoSuggested places to visit are:

  • Haleakala National Park *
  • Iao Valley State Park
  • Kaanapali Beach
  • Makena Beach State Park
  • Pools of Oheo *

Oahu

Oahu is the third largest island with a total area of 597 miles but has the largest population of the six islands.  The largest city is Honolulu and it is the state capital of Hawaii and the center of the state’s government and economy.  Pearl Harbor is home to the largest U.S. Naval fleet in the Pacific.  Oahu has two main mountain ranges separated by a valley and coastal plains.  The North Shore of the island is also a preferred tourist destination and it is less congested than Honolulu.  During our stay on Oahu we visited two very popular tourist destinations.  (If you are interested, please check out these two Travel posts:  Pearl Harbor, Hawaii and the Polynesian Cultural Center)

diamond-headSuggested places to visit are:

  • Pearl Harbor *
  • Iolani Palace State Monument *
  • Bishop Museum *
  • Diamond Head State Monument
  • Waimea Valley *
  • Polynesian Cultural Center *
  • Dole Plantation Center *

Kauai

Kauai is the fourth largest island with a total area of 562 miles and the highest point is Kawaikini at 5,243 feet.  It is the oldest of the six main islands as it is located the farthest from the hotspot that formed the islands.  Kauai has several mountain ranges, steep cliffs and rugged coastlines and it is known as the Garden Island due it the lush landscape.  Cities on the island include Hanalei, Hanapepe.

Waimea-CanyonSuggested places to visit are:

  • Napali Coast
  • Waimea Canyon *
  • Poipu Beach Park
  • Wailua Falls * and Opaekaa Falls
  • Spouting Horn
  • Kilauea Lighthouse

Molokai

The island of Molokai covers 260 square miles and the highest point is Kamakou at 4,961 feet.  There are two mountain ranges, the East Molakai and the West Molokai, on the island and these are extinct volcanoes.  Molokai is also known for their beautiful coral reefs.  The major city is Kaunakakai.

kapuaiwa_coconut_groveSuggested places to visit are:

  • Kalaupapa National Historical Park
  • Paphaku Beach
  • Halwa Valley
  • Hawaiian Fishponds of Molokai
  • Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove

Lanai

The island of Lanai covers 140 square miles and the only town on the island is Lanai City.  Lanai is known as the Pineapple Island because in the past the island was completely covered by a pineapple plantation but today the island is mainly undeveloped and many of the roads are unpaved.

Puu PeheSuggested places to visit are:

  • Hulopoe Bay
  • Kaiolohia (Shipwreck Beach)
  • Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods)
  • Munro Trail
  • Puu Pehe (Sweetheart Rock)

Travel – Clinton Presidential Library in Little Rock, AR

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Today is President William Jefferson Clinton’s birthday, he was born on August 19, 1946, and I thought it was a good time to share our trip to the Clinton Presidential Library and Museum located in Little Rock, Arkansas.  On our annual road trip back from California, we took the southern route across the United States and made stops at the Grand Canyon, Tucson, Little Rock and Memphis before heading north to go home.  When traveling across the country we always love to stop at the presidential libraries along the way and we have been to several of them – it doesn’t matter if the president was a democrat or republican – it is always a little history lesson!!  We loved Little Rock and the people were extremely friendly and very proud of this revitalized area of Little Rock.  (If you are interested, please check the January 2013 Travel post on Elvis Presley’s Graceland – Memphis, TN from the same road trip!)

The William J. Clinton Presidential Center is located in Little Rock near the Arkansas River and is home to the Clinton Presidential Library and Museum, the Little Rock offices of the Clinton Foundation and the University of Arkansas Clinton School Of Public Service.  When the Center opened in 2004, it brought more than $2.5 billion in economic development and renovations to the area located hear the historic River Market district.  The Presidential Library has the largest archival collection of any American President and features 20,000 square feet of museum exhibit space including a recreation of the White House Cabinet Room and a full scale replica of the Oval Office.  In speaking with the docent at the Library he told us that President Clinton visits the facility frequently when he is in Little Rock, in fact we missed seeing him there by only a few days!

After entering the Library there is usually a small revolving exhibit on the ground floor, when we visited it had several of Elvis Presley’s cars which was great because our next stop on our trip after Little Rock was Graceland – Memphis, TN.  On the ground floor there is a permanent exhibit of the Presidential limousine used during the Clinton Administration.

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Before proceeding to the second floor we purchased audio guides for each member in our group for a small fee, $3.  The audio tour is narrated by President Clinton and there are numbered stations throughout the Library and visitors simply enter the corresponding number to hear the information regarding a specific exhibit.  Also available for visitors are free one-hour “An American Presidency” tours offered three times a day with a paid admission, no reservations are required and check at the ticket counter for more information regarding the specific times.  Volunteers are also stationed throughout the Library to answer any questions.  While we were at the Special Services counter we also picked up the “Ideas Matter Youth Scavenger Hunt” which is a special self-guided children’s tour where they learn about the Library and search for areas marked by gold eagle coins, it was a fun activity for our 12 year old daughter and keep her busy during our visit.

In a small theater on the second floor there is an orientation film about President Clinton’s years in office.  Behind the theater is a large exhibit hall which has different changing exhibits, check ahead on the Library’s website to see what will be on exhibit at the time of your visit.  In front of the theater is an area with a recreation of the White House Cabinet Room.  This room in the West Wing of White House has been used since 1902 as the place where the President, Vice-President, the various cabinet secretaries and other officials gather to make the choices that affect our country’s future.  In a position of honor at the center of the table is the tallest chair, with a brass plaque marked “Mr. President”.  (Of course everyone has to sit in the President’s chair!)  On the walls surrounding the room, President Clinton had selected portraits of Thomas Jefferson, Abraham Lincoln and Theodore Roosevelt and, his personal favorite, George Washington.

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My favorite section of the Library was the 110 foot freestanding interactive timeline panels, starting from 1993 to 2001 representing the years of the Clinton administration.  Each individual year panel gives information regarding the events of that particular year ranging from natural disaster, scientific breakthroughs and military conflicts as well as events regarding sports to music.  Also in this section are 13 “policy alcoves” which explain specific policies of the Clinton administration. Architecturally and visually this area of the Library is very well-done and extremely informative.

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On the third floor of the Library is a section with exhibits that explain the Clinton’s life in the White House and displays concerning special state events and holiday celebrations throughout the years.  Also included in this section are several rotating exhibits displaying state gifts received during the Presidential years and personal memorabilia of the Clinton family.

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The highlight of the third floor is the full-sized replica of Clinton’s Oval Office; this room is decorated with the furnishings and decorations that were used during the years of his administration.  The original Oval Office in the White House was created in 1909 when President Taft built the West Wing.  In 1934 President Franklin Roosevelt had the room moved to its present location in the southwest corner of the West Wing.  My favorite piece of furniture in the room is the Resolute desk which is a 19th century desk used by many past presidents.  Originally it was a gift from Queen Victoria given to President Rutherford Hayes in 1880 and is built from the timbers of the British Arctic Explorations ship the “Resolute”.  Since them many presidents have used the desk at various locations in the White House and President Franklin Roosevelt added a small door built to prevent people from seeing his wheelchair.  It was first brought to the Oval Office in 1961 for President Kennedy and after his assassination it was used in a traveling exhibition to raise funds for the Kennedy Presidential Library and then put on display at the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, D.C.  President Jimmy Carter brought the desk back to the Oval Office where every president has used it since then.  (My memory of the Resolute desk is the iconic photo of little John-John Kennedy peeking out underneath from the door of the desk.  Of course, if you have see the 2007 movie “National Treasures 2 – Book of Secrets, you will remember the famous scene where Nicolas Gage searching for a hidden treasure in the desk!)

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When plans where first being discussed for the Clinton Presidential Library the first choice was to build it in Little Rock, Arkansas.  The building’s architects took inspiration from the six bridges over the Arkansas River; expanded on the Clinton administration “a bridge to the future” theme used in the 2000 millennium celebration and built the bridge-like building concept that fits in beautifully with the scenic river view at the site.  Clinton also wanted the building to be an example of the green building design concept of sustainable construction and operation. The Clinton Presidential Center has received the Platinum LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Certification and presently is the only federally maintained facility to receive this prestigious recognition.

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Travel – Neuschwanstein Castle

Neuschwanstein Castle

My son and I were fortunate to see Neuschwanstein Castle when we were on a trip to Germany in 1998.  King Ludwig’s Neuschwanstein is a 19th century fairytale castle located on the hill above the small village of Hohenschwangau, near Fussen in southern Germany.  We were on a bus tour of this beautiful region known as Bavaria that originated from Munich.  The tour took us first to Linderhof, one of King Ludwig’s smaller palaces, then on to a brief shopping visit to Oberammergau which is famous for their woodcraving, beautifully painted houses and the Passion Play.  The final stop and the highlight of the tour was Neuschwanstein Castle and it was an enchanting experience and very exciting for this Disney fan to see the actual castle that was the inspiration for Disneyland’s Sleeping Beauty Castle in Anaheim, CA.

A Brief Histoy of Neuschwanstein Castle

King Ludwig IIIn the Middle Ages there were three castles near the village of Hohenschwangau, which is located at 2,620 feet elevation near the border of Germany and Austria.  Schwanstein Castle was located nearest the village and on the hill overlooking were twin castles known as Vorderhohenschwangau Castle and Hinterhohenschwangau Castle.  Over the centuries all three castle fell into ruins.  Then, in 1832 King Maximilian II began to build a new castle known as Hohenschwangau Castle near the ruins of the Schwanstein Castle.  By 1837 the palace was completed and became the summer residence of the King and his family.  In 1864 King Maximillian died and his eldest son became King Ludwig II.  Ludwig was only 19 years old when he became king of Bavaria and he was a very shy and introverted man who spent his childhood exploring this area of southern Germany.

Several years later, Ludwig wanted to build a secluded personal refuge and he decided on the area where the twin castles once stood.  The building design was drafted by the stage designer Christian Jank and the King insisted on control over all aspects of the palace and is largely regarded as his own creation rather that the architects involved.  The foundation stone for Neuschwanstein Castle was laid in 1869.  Over 200 craftsmen were employed with additional 100 workers at different times in order to meet the King’s specific deadlines for the construction of the palace.  The materials used for the construction of the palace were approximately white limestone for the exterior walls, sandstone for the portals and Salzburg marble for the arched window frames and columns.  Transportation of these materials was difficult due to the site located on the steep hill, cranes and scaffolds were also needed during the construction.  In 1884, the King moved into the still unfinished palace to oversee the completion of the construction and the final interior details.  Ludwig only spent six months at his beloved Neuschwanstein before he died under mysterious circumstances in the water of Lake Stanberg new Berg Castle in 1886 at the age of 40 years old.

The exterior of Neuschwanstein Castle is designed in the Romanesque style of architecture and the building has numerous towers, turrets, gables and balconies.  Built on the hill above the village of Hohenschwangau with the Pollat Gorge to the south and the foothills of the Alpine mountains and lakes to the north, the palace’s setting offers many picturesque views in all directions.  Neuschwanstein was intended to be King Ludwig’s private residence and the interior design is based on the German legend of Lohengrin or the Swan Knight as immortalized in the operas of Richard Wagner and his music was very inspirational in the design of the palace.

At the time of Ludwig’s death, only 14 finished rooms of the palace were completed and furnished.  The original 65,000 square feet floor plan was designed with more than 200 rooms with the majority of those rooms intended as guest and servant accommodations.  The largest room of the palace is the Hall of Singer’s which is 89 feet by 33 feet and is located in the east wing of the palace.  The Hall was designed with a stage at the far end but was never intended for court entertainment of the reclusive King.  No performance was held in the room until 1933 when there was a concert performed to commemorating the 50th anniversary of Richard Wagner’s death, he never lived to Neuschwanstein.

Neuschwanstein Castle - Hall of Singer's

The Throne Room measures 66 feet by 39 feet with a 43 feet high ceiling takes up the space of the third and fourth floors and is located in the west wing of the palace.  At the request of King Ludwig, this Byzantine style room is designed to incorporate the symbols of unrestricted sovereign power and the divine right of kings.  Hanging overhead is a chandelier in the shape of a Byzantine crown and at the far end of the room is a dais but is without a throne since King Ludwig’s throne was not finished at the time of his death.  The walls surrounding the dais have paintings of Jesus and the twelve apostles and also portraits of six canonized kings: Saint Louis of France, Saint Stephen of Hungry, Saint Edward the Confessor of England, Saint Wenceslaus of Bohemia, Saint Olaf of Norway and Saint Henry the Holy Roman Emperor.

Neuschwanstein Castle - Throne Room

King Ludwig’s bedroom suite is in contrast to the other rooms in the palace and is decorated in a Neo-Gothic style.  It took 14 woodcarvers 41/2 years to complete this room; the bed is crowned with the intricate woodcarvings and covered with embroidered draperies.  The wall painting is “Tristian and Isolde” a story from one of Wagner’s operas.  The adjacent dressing room is completely paneling in oak and the painted trellis on the ceiling gives the impression that the room is open to the sky.

Neuschwanstein Castle - King Ludwig's Bedroom

The Living Room is completely inspired by the legend of the Swan Knight, Lohengrin, which had significant meaning and held great importance to Ludwig.  In this room there is a mural called “The Miracle of the Grail”, the Grail King was a medieval legend of a pauper that had risen to become King because of his pure soul and he achieved this success by overcoming sin and winning his inner battles.  Ludwig’s obsession with the Grail King is very understandable when looking at his diaries indicate that he also suffered with deep inner turmoil in repressing his homosexuality.  Another mural in the room is called “The Arrival of Lohengrin in Antwerp” is important given that the young prince Ludwig was so overwhelmed by Wagner’s opera Lohengrin that he considered the opera a form of enlightenment.  Ludwig was a recluse and completely identified himself with the Swan Knight whose tragic downfall was his overwhelming loneliness that he frequently dressed as the character.  Neuschwanstein means “New Swan Stone” and King Ludwig II is still thought of today as the “Swan King”.

Travel tips for visiting Neuschwanstein Castle

  • Before ascending the hill, purchase castle tour tickets at the ticket center in Hohenschwangau or tour tickets are also available for a small additional reservation fee on the Neuschwanstein website, www.neuschwanstein.de

TRAVEL NOTE:  The tour ticket is valid only for a specific date and time and be advised that it takes awhile to reach the castle at the top of the hill.  If you have purchased tickets online, please arrive at least 1½ hours before your reserved time to allow for travel up to the castle entrance.

  • There are various options to get to the top of the hill and the castle entrance.  The price for the bus and the horse-carriage ride will variety from one fee for the uphill trip and another fee for the downhill trip.   (When we visited Neuschwanstein, we took the bus to the top of the hill to the castle entrance and then after the castle tour we walked back down to the village).

Walk:  A strenuous hike from the village at the bottom on the hill up to the castle at the top can takes about 45 minutes to an hour.  A hike down the hill after the tour is a great way to see the beautiful views across the way to Hohenschwangau Castle with the village down below and also Alpsee Schansee, a picturesque lake located on the other side of the castle.

Bus:  There is fee for the bus and will depart from in front of the Schlosshotel in the village.  Visitors will ride up the hill to a stop near Jugend lookout and Marienbrucke.  From the bus stop there is still a strenuous and steep path which will take visitors about 15 minutes to reach the castle entrance.

TRAVEL TIP: Be sure to take a moment to look at the lovely view of Neuschwanstein and the Pollat Gorge before walking to the castle entrance.  The location at the Maienbrucke (or Mary’s Bridge) is a wonderful vantage point for pictures of Nesuchwanstein and the waterfall below the bridge.

Horse-drawn carriage:  There is a fee for the carriage ride and will depart from in front Hotel Muller in the village, then from the carriage stop it is a shorter walk to the castle entrance.  (If you can afford this mode of transportation is can be a wonderful way to travel up the hill to the castle)

  • Guided tours of the interior of the castle take about 35 minutes and are held in German and English, other languages are available as audio guides.

TRAVEL NOTE:  The castle tour can be strenuous for visitors, please be advised the tour will covers 5 floors of the castle, 165 stair steps upstairs and 181 stair steps downstairs.  Call ahead to inquire about special arrangements made for the disabled persons using a wheelchair or walker.

  • Neuschwanstein has more than 1 million visitors every year and in the busy summer months of July, August and September there can be 6,000 visitors per day.  Arrive early in the day to purchase castle tour tickets at the ticket center in Hohenschwangau or pick up pre-arranged tour tickets at the will call window.
  • Photography is not allowed inside the castle.

For more information regarding times, prices, etc check out the Neuschwanstein website, www.neuschwanstein.de 

Neuschwanstein Castle and the Disney connection

When Walt started the construction of the Disneyland theme park in Anaheim, CA he wanted something at the end of Main Street to draw his guests into the park.  At the time the Disney animated film “Sleeping Beauty” was about to be released and Walt thought a fairytale castle would be the perfect solution.  The castle they built as the entrance to Fantasyland is called the Sleeping Beauty Castle and it was one of the first buildings to be completed for the new theme park that opened July 17, 1955.

Sleeping Beauty Castle has been noted to be a composite of the architecture of French and Bavarian castles which were originally built during the Middle Ages.  But in actuality the inspiration for the Disneyland castle is a place Walt Disney and his wife Lillian visited many years before on a European vacation, Neuschswanstein Castle in Germany.  The resemblance between the two castles is uncanny and the architectural features are undeniable.

Disneyland's Sleeping Beauty's Castle - 1995