Travel – Windsor Castle (Part One)

Windsor Castle - etching

Windsor Castle is a British Royal residence located about 22 miles from Buckingham Palace, the monarch’s official London residence.  Because of the relatively close location to the city, Queen Elizabeth frequently spends her weekends there when she is not required to be in London for formal appearances or special occasions.  In Windsor Castle Part One, I will discuss the history of Windsor Castle which dates back over 1000 years to when it was built shortly after the Norman Conquest.  In Part Two, I will discuss the architecture of the main buildings and give a short tour of some of the rooms inside the castle as well as St. George’s Chapel and the surrounding grounds of Windsor Great Park.

The history of Windsor Castle

Windsor Castle was built by William the Conqueror when he was establishing a line of defensive fortifications around London shortly after the Norman Conquest in 1066.  The site for Windsor Castle was located within an easy 20 mile march from the London and conveniently positioned on the River Thames, which at the time, was a main medieval route through England.  The castle was also located near Windsor Forest which had been a royal hunting preserve used by the previous Saxon kings.  The first building constructed on the site was a wooden structure known as a keep, which is a fortified tower built within a castle, set on the top of a man-made mound and protected by an outer wall.  A second structure was later built to the east forming what is known as the Upper Ward and several years later a third structure was built to the west, known as the Lower Ward, thereby enclosing the entire castle.

The first royal resident to use Windsor Castle was King Henry I (reign 1100-1135).  During his time, the mound on which the original keep was built had begun to collapse and it was reinforced with timber supports and stone, also a low protective wall was added.  Later, King Henry II (reign 1154-1189) ordered an extensive refurbishment of Windsor Castle.  The original wooden keep was completely replaced with a stone structure and the mound was again reinforced with a new massive stone foundation.  The wooden walls surrounding the Upper Ward where replaced with a stone walls and the King’s Gate was built.  The interior castle buildings were also completely reconstructed in stone.

Then, during the reign of King John (1199-1216) Windsor Castle was besieged, meaning armed forces surround the castle, in 1214 during the time known as the revolt of the English Barons.  From Windsor Castle, King John held negotiations to settle the disagreements before he eventually signed the Magna Carta in nearby Runnymede in 1215.  A year later, the castle was again under attack by the baronial troops which were then aided by the French, Windsor Castle held and the outside forces were defeated.  But, during the second siege, the castle was severely damaged and extensive repairs were required to strengthen its defenses, the construction lasted from 1216 to 1221.  At that time, the stone walls of the Lower Ward were rebuilt and three new towers were constructed; the Curfew, the Garter and the Salisbury towers.  The Middle Ward was also heavily reinforced and an additional stone wall was built with the Edward II tower at one end and the Henry III tower on the other end.

King Henry III (reign 1216-1272) built a lavish palace in the Upper Ward in the years from 1240 to 1263 and Windsor Castle eventually became his favorite residence.  New buildings were built in the Lower Ward which included the Lady Chapel, a large 70 foot long chapel built on the south side, and repairs were done to the Great Hall with a new kitchen; but unfortunately the Great Hall was destroyed by a fire in 1296.  With these new changes made to Windsor Castle there became a distinct division between the Upper Ward which became an area that was part of the royal family private residence and the Lower Ward which provided a public space for royal ceremonies and other events.

During the reign of King Edward III (1327–1377) he established the Order of the Garter in 1348.  Since Windsor Castle would be the headquarters of this new order, the King planned to have the castle completely renovated to reflect a more lavish style.  Between 1350 and 1377, an exorbitant amount of money was spent on the construction of the new castle and on the interior design with expensive furnishings and other decorations.  In addition, three new buildings were built; the Little Cloister, King’s Cloister and a Kitchen Court in the Upper Ward.  In the front of the main portion of the castle; the St. George’s Hall, the Great Chamber and the Rose Tower was constructed and designed for the king’s private use at the west end of the castle.  In the Lower Ward the Lady’s Chapel was enlarged and renovated.

St. George’s Chapel, which had begun construction in 1461, was finally completed during the reign of King Henry VII (1485-1509).  St. George’s Chapel was built in a Gothic style of architecture in the Lower Ward.  St. George’s Chapel is dedicated to the patron saint of the Order of the Carter, which was an organization that had become inactive during the previous century but had recently been revived.  The Order is the oldest British order of chivalry and St. George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle is where the traditional Garter ceremony takes place; today the ceremony is still performed every June.  (For more information on St. George’s Chapel, please click on the link to Windsor Castle – Part Two)

Windsor Castle - St. George's Chapel 1848

At the beginning of the 16th century, the young King Henry VIII (1509-1547) was in power.  In addition to Hampton Court, King Henry also frequently visited Windsor Castle.  In keeping with his active lifestyle of hunting and jousting, the king also enjoyed the game of tennis and he had a tennis court constructed near the base of the mound near the Round Tower in the Upper Ward in 1510.  Originally, due to his close association with Cardinal Wolsey, the King had commissioned the Lady Chapel to hold an elaborate mausoleum built for his closest spiritual and political adviser upon Wolsey’s death.  After Wolsey’s failed in an attempt to seek an annulment for the King and his first wife, he quickly fell out of favor and was eventually striped of his power.  He died at Leicester Abbey before his scheduled execution and was buried in the abbey’s church.  The mausoleum was never completed and when King Henry died in 1547 he was buried in a vault under the floor originally intended for Wolsey and it is marked by a simple black gravestone in the Lady Chapel section of the St. George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle.

Windsor Castle 1530

In 1642, as England broke into a Civil War, Parliament became concerned that the troops of King Charles I (1625-1649) would advance on London and Windsor Castle was seized to protect the route along the River Thames.  Unfortunately, with troops occupying the castle, looting of many valuable gold and silver items were taken including the unfinished tomb of King Henry VIII.  Eventually the Earl of Essex used Windsor Castle as his headquarters and also parts of buildings were used as a prison to hold captured Royalists and the Lady Chapel held guns and ammunition.  In 1647, King Charles was taken prisoner and brought to the castle under house arrest before his execution in 1649; he was later buried in St. George’s Chapel.

Windsor Castle 1670s

At the beginning of her long reign, Queen Victoria (1837-1901) and Prince Albert made Windsor Castle their principal royal residence and it was frequently used for entertaining foreign diplomats and nobility.  One major change to Windsor Castle came in 1848 when Parliament passed a law which limited public access to the grounds of the castle and roads were re-routed or closed within Windsor Park to allow a measure of privacy for the Royal family.  Modern improvements were eventually made to Windsor Castle during this time with interior running water provided by a nearby reservoir and initially only limited electric lighting was installed because the Queen preferred candlelight.  After the death of Prince Albert in December 1861, Queen Victoria made the room where he died a shrine and in her state of exaggerated mourning she ordered that it remain unchanged until her own death several years later.  Ultimately an elaborate mausoleum was built at Frogmore in Windsor Park as a lasting tribute to the Queen’s beloved husband and that it where his body is interred.

Windsor Castle - Blue Room where Prince Albert died

After the death of Queen Victoria in 1901, her son became King Edward VII (1901-1910).  The British monarchy moved from one that had been suspended in a period of prolonged mourning with a relatively somber court to one that became extremely active with almost constant activity and entertaining.  As a result Windsor Castle underwent a massive interior redecoration which eliminated the Victorian-style clutter and replaced with furnishing in Edwardian-style elegance.  Finally, the room were Prince Albert had died and in which Queen Victorian had made into a shrine all those years ago was finally cleared.  More modern conveniences were added during this time, such as electricity in all the rooms along with central heating throughout the castle and the installation of telephone lines which made communication so much easier and quicker.

After the death of his father, King George V (1910-1936) set about further re-decorating the interior of Windsor Castle.  Queen Mary had a passion for collecting antiques and many pieces of furniture, paintings and other decorative items were acquired during this time.  The Queen also enjoyed collecting miniatures and the famous dollhouse which is still currently on display within a room at the castle.  It was designed by renowned architect Edwin Lutyens and furnished with miniature furniture and items made by British craftsmen.  (From more information about Queen Mary’s dollhouse, please click on the link to Windsor Castle – Part Two)

Queen Mary's dollhouse

In 1936, after the death of King George V his eldest son became King Edward VIII in January.  Unfortunately by December of that same year he had abdicated the throne with a radio speech broadcast from one of the rooms in Windsor Castle and his brother went on to become King George VI (1936-1952).  During his reign, King George revived the annual Garter Service which holds their annual ceremony annually in June at St. George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle.  (For more information of the Order of the Garter, please click on the link)

During World War II, Windsor Castle was prepared for war with tightened security.  Since the castle would be a major target for the German bombers, the structure was reinforced with sandbags to prevent any significant damage and the windows were blacked-out as a precaution.  In addition, valuable artwork and fragile items such as the crystal chandeliers were either removed or stored for safe keeping.  Although the King and the Queen remained at Buckingham Palace during the duration of the war their children, Princess Elizabeth and Princess Margaret, were moved to the safety of Windsor during the worst of the German bombings of London which became known as “the Blitz”.  The King and Queen frequently joined their daughters at Windsor on the weekends.  After the war was over it took several years to restore Windsor Castle, repairing any damages and returning the interior to its former grand style and pre-war condition.

After the death of her father, Queen Elizabeth II (1952 to the present) decided at the start of her reign that she and her family would frequently spend weekends at Windsor Castle when she is not required to be in London for formal appearances or special occasions.  Throughout the years, she has ordered continued maintenance of the castle and when necessary minor repairs to the exterior of the buildings as well as the grounds and periodic renovations of the interior rooms of the castle.

Then on November 22 1992, Windsor Castle was severely damaged in a major fire started while the Private Chapel in the State Apartments was being renovated.  It has been reported that a work light had fallen and set fire to the curtains near the altar causing the fire that would quickly spread to other areas of the castle.  More than 200 firefighters battled the fire for over 12 hours and in the end nine State Rooms had been extensively damaged and several other rooms also sustained minor damages, it was the worst disaster in the castle’s history.  Luckily when the fire was first detected the castle staff was able to empty the rooms of many valuable paintings and decorative pieces.  The five year restoration was very costly and at first it was said that the British taxpayers would finance the project but the public was outraged.  Ultimately, it was decided that both Buckingham Palace and Windsor Castle would be partially opened for seasonal tours to raise the funds required for the restoration project.  On November 20, 1997 Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip held a ball to mark their 50th wedding anniversary and officially reopen Windsor Castle.

Windsor Castle fire 1    Windsor Castle fire 2
 

St George's Hall after the fire    St George's Hall, Windsor Castle Photo: EZM

For additional information, please check out Windsor Castle – Part Two which discusses the architecture of the buildings and give a short tour of some of the rooms inside the castle as well as St. George’s Chapel and the surrounding grounds of Windsor Great Park.

Personal travel note:  When we visited England in 1998, my son and I were able to tour Windsor Castle but not Buckingham Palace.  I highly recommend if you have an interest in British history or the Royal Family these tours are a wonderful idea.

Travel – Mega Caverns, Louisville, Kentucky

Hello everyone, it’s Jeff again and this time I’m posting about our recent trip to Louisville, Kentucky and a visit to the Louisville Mega Cavern.  (Barbara may be planning on writing a post on the caverns, but I thought I would beat her to it!). The Louisville Mega Cavern offers visitors several adventure opportunities, such as zip lining rope courses, it is a little pricey but alot of fun!!  In this post I will talk about the history of the caverns and the available entertainment.

History of the Mega Caverns in Louisville, KentuckyLouisville-1942-590 The mine was first known as the Louisville Crushed Stone Company in the 1930 which provided construction material for the building of the roads and bridges around the Midwest.  The mine shut down in 1972 100 acres of materials had been removed and the space left about 17 miles of underground space.  It was purchased in 1989 and it became the Louisville Underground, LLC. which was a company designed to provide ultra-safe, ultra-secure storage.

The caverns are huge, over 4 million square feet and the space was used for several purposes such as a dumping ground / recycling center for inorganic materials, a worm farm, a storage facility for the city’s road salt supply, secure temperature controlled storage and my favorite, a huge civil defense shelter!  The caverns were slated to house over 50,000 people should there be a nuclear attack on the United States. The city of Louisville had about 788,000 people at the time it would have only been able to house about 16% of the local population so not everyone was invited.  You needed to be on a secret list which included the governor, soldiers from Fort Knox, important people and supposedly Colonel Sanders of KFC fame!

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More recently the owners decided to stray away from storage and started installing some first class entertainment!  After backfilling some 50-60 feet of the cavern, Louisville Mega Caverns were born.  The attractions include a tram ride, “Mega Quest” – a rope adventure area, “Mega Zip” – underground zip lines and opening soon, “Mega Underground Bike Park”.  The bike park is a great idea in my mind because it will be available year round – weather will never again be a factor!

The Facility

The facility is a big cavern (cavern, not cave as it is man made) that has been partially filled in over time.  It is the largest building in Kentucky and one of the most eco-friendly as the large amount of limestone which provided insulation for keeping the facility at a constant 58 degrees.

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There is a decent parking lot close to the entrance and a small covered area, which I assume is where you meet for the tram rides.  The entrance takes you down a long hall with posted lists on facts for visitors to read and be entertained.  The corridor is made of fairly plain sheetrock with no real embellishments, but it is just getting you to the real entrance.  Before you get there however you pass part of the storage area and some really HUGE fans!  Those really impressed me.  They are probably 15 feet tall!

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The entrance to Mega Quest / Mega Zip is quaint, but when you get in the facility is nice.  There is a seating area with tables that will fit a large number of people.  They section parts off for “private” parties.  There is a small gift shop and an area serving snacks and drinks with free refills.  Take advantage of this – “mega questers” will get thirsty with all that strenuous activity.

The staff is very nice and helpful and they operate more like a family business that a corporate machine giving the place a very nice feel.  I’ll talk a little more about the specifics of each attraction as I get there.

Mega Tram

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When we visited Mega Caverns it was winter and the tram was not running, but here is the description stolen shamelessly from their web site:

The Historic Tram Tour will take you on an underground adventure rich in history, geology, mining, recycling, green building technology, and just simply HUGE in scale!

The man-made cavern spans under a number of roadways above and is part of 17 miles of corridors located beneath the city of Louisville, Kentucky. It’s a great tour for all ages—whether you want to learn about science and history or simply want to see what a giant man-made cavern of this magnitude looks like!

You’ll hop on an SUV-pulled tram and be joined by a MEGA Cavern expert who will guide you on your underground adventure. It’s a 60-70 minute tour, strategically lit to enjoy highlights such as:

  • Some Early Cavern Formations
  • A Historic Replica of the Cuban Missile Fallout Bunker
  • A Worm Recycling/Tasting Room
  • Sights and Facts of the Early Mining Operation
  • Hear About our Storm Dog and Pigeon Eating Hawk
  • And More Surprises Wait Around Every Corner!

Mega Quest

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Mega Quest was the purpose of our visit.  We thought our daughter would enjoy it.  Our family enjoys exploring caves (see these posts on Wind and Jewel Caves and Mammoth Cave)  I’m guessing the facility was about 9,000 square feet, which would have been impressive in itself, but it was also 20 – 30 feet tall!  It was lit with cool blue, red and green lights.  It felt like the lights kept changing colors, but I am really not sure about that.  You climb around on 76 different challenges with a small zip line on one side of the course.  My daughter and her friend spent three hours there and would have continued had they not been so tired!

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I was extremely impressed with the safety measures they have in place.  First, they provide  visitors a helmet and harness, but they go way beyond that.  They have a double hooked, self-managed belay system and seriously train everyone to always keep one hook attached.  The mechanism is also built to prevent both hooks from being detached at the same time.  I felt perfectly safe while my daughter was 30 feet in the air dangling on a thin rope bridge or zipping 100 feet on her own.

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They say the course is good for everyone from about 5 to 90, but I think 5 is a bit young and while the course looked fun, I feel it is better geared to the 8 to 18 year old.  Of course I am saying this without actually having been on the course myself.

Mega Zip

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My daughter and her friend were going to spend three hours on the Mega Quest ropes so I thought I would try something else.  Mega Cavern also offers underground zip lining.  I had never been zip lining, it was my near my birthday and Barbara encouraged me so I thought “Why not?”.  First, let me say I really enjoyed it.  I was in a group of 9 people, the max is 12 and it took us a good two hours to go through the course.  The guides were experienced, friendly and fun.

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The tour starts in the equipment area.  There you get your gear on and there is a short practice zip line.  As the participant you do nothing, the guides attach all the cables and basically take care of everything.  After the practice line you walk quite a way underground, past the entrance and the soon to be opened Bike Park to the first real zip line.  I believe the first is called the Highway to Hell.  It has fun, campy decorations and it is a fairly long line.  I can’t remember the names of the others but they were quite long, one was some 90 feet in the air and the dual racing at the end was fun.

What I do remember was that after the second or third line we mounted platforms and did not touch the ground until the end.  Those of you who know me might find this odd, but I am afraid of heights.  While we were kept attached to dual guide lines the entire time we were off the ground and were perfectly safe, I struggled with the challenge bridges.  I really only felt safe once I was zipping through the darkness which is the part that scares most other people.  Go figure…

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Bike Park

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The latest attraction at Mega Caverns is an underground bike park.  It is an off road track designed by Jeff Perkins and offers 40-plus trail lines covering 320,000 square feet.  The park is now open (it wasn’t when we were there).  Here is the spiel from Mega Caverns:

  • The only UNDERGROUND bike park in the world
  • The largest indoor bike park on the planet!!!
  • No spectators allowed at this time
  • ADVANCED RESERVATIONS SUGGESTED BUT NOT REQUIRED
  • WALK-INS WELCOME
  • 320,000 square feet
  • 10 stories or 100 feet underground
  • Over 45 trails
  • Bike rental available in April 2015 (not available now)
  • Helmets are required

Pictures

For the Mega Quest and Zip Lining, probably also for the bikes they offer pictures. They come in two price points – generic and personal.  The personal tag costs $10 and you get unlimited pictures.  The generic tag takes pictures as well, but they cost more at the end.  We purchased the personal tag (which you get to take home), but I was disappointed with the pictures.  There were a couple of stock pictures (see below), but most of the pictures of me and my daughter were blurry, too dark, or of someone else or I was looking away.  I  would recommend sticking with the generic tags and if you get a good picture, pay the price.

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Cost

My only complaint, although that is probably too strong a word, with the Mega Caverns is the cost.  The zip lining was $80, the Mega Quest was $40.  My choice on the pictures added another $10 to that.  For the Mega Quest it works out to about $14 an hour which isn’t too bad.  At $40 an hour for the zip line it was somewhat expensive, but I would consider doing it again.  The gift shop has items of decent quality, but of tourist attraction gift shop prices.  The bike park seems to be very reasonably priced.

Summary

Mega Caverns is a fun adventure with something for the whole family.  For those who can’t or don’t want to walk there is the tram.  For those more adventurous there is Mega Quest and if old / large enough (you need to be at least 75 lbs) there are the zip lines. The cavern has other events, particularly at Christmas and it is a decent value. Both my daughter and I enjoyed our adventures and we will go back.  Hopefully Barbara will go on the zip lines with us!

Travel – Grand Canyon National Park

Grand Canyon - panorama

National Parks in the United States make wonderful destinations for family vacations and in this post I will discuss one of the most popular ones … the Grand Canyon National Park located in Arizona.  I’m sure this has been said a thousand times, but a photograph does not capture the beauty of the Grand Canyon, it is truly is a wonder to see for the first time and to stand at the edge looking down into the vast canyons.  So, I will start with a brief history of the park dating back to when the area was first established by the Native Americans, how it was discovered later by European settlers and how it was eventually made into a National Park.  I will discuss how the canyon was formed and also give suggestions of things to see and do on a visit to the park.

Grand Canyon - map

A brief history of the Grand Canyon National Park

The Grand Canyon National Park is located in the northwest corner of Arizona.  The canyon is 277 miles long, measures up to 18 miles at its widest point and reaches the depth of over a mile.  The Grand Canyon was created hundreds of millions of years ago but geologists continue to debate about the exact process and timing of its formation.  In fact, it was created by a combination of extreme weather conditions, seismic events, volcanic activity and water erosion.  As the earth was being formed, this area underwent vast changes in weather conditions creating inland seas, swamps and then deserts.  With each different climate condition, rocks and minerals formed layers of sediment deposited one on top of another.  The next step in the process happened approximately 60 million years ago when the tectonic plates were sifting in the area that eventually became the North American continent.  This seismic activity, similar to how the nearby Rocking Mountain range was created, caused upward rock and soil movement which formed the Colorado and Kaibab plateaus and as a result the Colorado River formed.  Each subsequent seismic activity caused an increase in the uplift of plateaus allowing the river to flow faster.  The movement of the Colorado River caused a process known as water erosion which started to carve the canyons approximately 2 million years ago.  This period in the history of the Earth was known as the Ice Age when massive amounts of snow accumulated in the region.  Then, as the snow melted with the change in earth’s temperature, the water of the Colorado River started to cause fissures in earth’s surface by carrying away rock and soil creating deeper and deeper canyons.  Finally, one million years ago volcanic activity in the region created a final layer of rock from ash and lava.  Today, these layers of rock which were created over millions of years ago tell the story of the geologic history of how the earth was formed.  Nearly 40 different layers wonderfully preserved within the exposed walls of the Grand Canyon have been identified.  (Travel Note:  As visitors look out over the canyons from the rim and scenic overlooks or when venturing further into the canyons on hikes or mule trips, please take the time to look at the various layers of rock and appreciate what nature has created!)

Currently this part of the United States is known as the “Four Corners” area and it is where the four states of Arizona, Utah, Colorado and New Mexico borders all come together.  Thousands of years ago a group of Native Americans, known as the Anasazi, lived in the area.  The Anasazi are considered the ancient ancestors of the modern Pueblo Native Americans who considered the Grand Canyon a holy site that they named Ongtupqa.

The first Europeans to visit the area were a group of Spanish conquistadors, soldiers and explorers, led by Captain Garcia Lopez de Cardenas under the orders of Francisco Vasquez de Coronado in 1540.  The conquistadors and their Hopi Native American guides were in search of the fabled Seven Cities of Cibola.  Their records indicate that they came to the South Rim of Grand Canyon, somewhere between the current area known as Desert View and Moran Point, noting that the canyon were deep and walls were high.  200 years passed before two Spanish priests, Father Francisco Dominguez and Father Silvestre de Escalante, accompanied by Spanish soldiers came to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon looking for a way into California in 1776.  The route that was established became known as the “Crossing of the Fathers” and was located in Glen Canyon (currently the route lies under the waters of Lake Powell)

Almost a hundred years later, John Wesley Powell led the first expedition down the Colorado River and through the Grand Canyon in 1869.  Starting at Green River in Wyoming, Powell and nine men gathered in four boats and traveled down the Green River to the Colorado River navigating the uncharted river for future travel.  The Powell group completed the 350 miles trip in three months experiencing difficult navigation and many hardships along the way.  (Travel Note: Today, visitors can travel down the Grand Canyon on a variety of organized raft trips that explore several different parts along the Colorado River, trips are available in various lengths of time ranging from one day to several days)

In 1903, President Theodore Roosevelt visited the Grand Canyon on a trip through the area; he was a great sportsman and conservationist.  In 1906 Roosevelt established the Grand Canyon Game Preserve which eventually led to the elimination of natural predators such as eagles, mountain lions and wolves.  Later, adjacent land was added to the preserve and it became designated as a National Monument in 1908.  Then, unfortunately land and mining interests blocked the area from being incorporated into the United States National Park system for the next 11 years.  Finally, on February 26, 1919 the Grand Canyon officially became the 17th National Park as signed into law by President Woodrow Wilson.

Roosevlet at the Grand Canyon

Throughout the following years, the Grand Canyon National Park has experiences many changes and overcome many management problems.  In 1963 the construction of the Glen Canyon Dam permanently altered the Colorado River and as a result the Grand Canyon ecosystem experienced many changes.  Other problems impacting the Grand Canyon included disputes with various Native American tribal reservations adjacent to the park concerning water rights, increased air pollution levels caused by surrounding metropolitan areas and increased tourist air traffic created higher noise levels.

One remarkable achievement in recent years has been the reintroduction of the California condor into the Grand Canyon Nation Park.  At one point in time the California condor ranged from Canada to Mexico and across the United States from the west coast to the east coast.  Gradually with the settlement of North America it decreased their range to only the area along the Pacific coast from British Columbia to Baja California. The population of condors dramatically dwindled at an alarming rate due to increased hunting and cyanide poisoning from predator traps, power line collisions and lead poisoning caused by the condors ingesting fragment of lead ammunition in carcasses.  In 1967 the California condor was put on the federal endangered species list but by 1982 the total condor population was down to only 22 birds and the species was close to extinction.  Then in 1983, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service began a captive breeding programing partnering with the Los Angeles Zoo and the San Diego Wild Animal Park.  Sadly, by 1985 the condor population had declined to only nine birds in the wild.  In 1987, a controversial decision was made to capture all the remaining condors and included them into the captive breeding program.  Eventually, the condor numbers dramatically increased to 177 birds and in 1992 the decision was made to release 127 condors into the Los Padres National Forest located north of Los Angeles and later in 1996 six condors were released into the Vermilion Cliff area 30 miles north of the Grand Canyon.  Today, the total population of California condors is over 400 with half that number being from birds in the wild, currently there are five active condor nesting areas located within the Grand Canyon National Park and the Vermilion Cliff area.

Grand Canyon - California condor

Things to see and do at the Grand Canyon National Park

South Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park

Grand Canyon Village is located near Mather Point which is the place where most park visitors get their first look of the Grand Canyon.  The Grand Canyon Visitor Center located in the village is a great first stop for visitors to find park information regarding current climate and road conditions, get park maps and view exhibits pertaining to the park’s geology and animal inhabitations.  The visitor center also shows a 20 minute orientation film, “Grand Canyon: A Journey of Wonder”, in the visitor center theater.

Grand Canyon Visitor Center - South Rim

Most visitors travel to the Grand Canyon National Park by car but once they arrive at the park certain areas are restricted to private transportation and visitors are encouraged to take the park’s free shuttle buses to see the major points of interest.  Some visitors that decide to stay outside the park boundaries will stay in Williams, AZ and then take the Grand Canyon Railway train into the park which arrives and departs from the train depot conveniently located in the Grand Canyon Village.  (Travel Note: For more information about the Grand Canyon Railway and hotel accommodations in Williams, please click on the link to www.thetrain.com)

Grand Canyon Railway

The Grand Canyon Village is also where visitor accommodations ranging from inexpensive campgrounds or moderate to expensive hotels are located in the South Rim area.  The most luxurious lodging on the South Rim is the El Tovar Hotel built in 1905 and designed by Charles Frederick Whittlesley in a style that has become known as “National Park Rustic”, there is also a restaurant and gift shop located inside the hotel.  A moderate price hotel also located in the Grand Canyon Village is the Bright Angel Lodge which was built in 1935.  The original hotel was built by the famous Fred Harvey Company and designed by Mary Colter, an unusual feature is the fireplace which is layered with stones placed in the same sequence as those found in the Grand Canyon.  (Travel Note: Be sure to make advance reservations if you are planning to stay overnight in the park)

El Tovar Hotel - Grand Canyon South Rim    Bright Angel Lodge

A short walk away from the hotels and perched on the canyon rim is the Kolb Studio which was built in 1904 by Ellsworth and Emery Kolb.  The Kolb Brothers guided visitors down the Bright Angel Trail taking photographs which the visitors could purchase of them standing in front the magnificent views of the Grand Canyon.  In 1911, the Kolb Brother filmed their journey down the Green and Colorado Rivers which brought national attention and increased tourism to the area.  The former studio building was recently restored and features a Kolb photography exhibit and an art gallery.

Kolb Studio

Located about 27 miles from the Grand Canyon Village is an area known as Desert View which offers even more spectacular views of the Grand Canyon and from this vantage point the Colorado River can be seen down at the bottom of the canyon. Adjacent to the parking lot is one of Mary Colter’s best known buildings called the Desert View Watchtower which was built in 1932.  The structure was designed to resemble the ancient Anasazi watchtowers and the building stands 70 feet tall and is considered one of the highest points on the South Rim.

Desert View Overlookc Mike Koopsen    Desert View Watchtower

Located just over 3 miles from the Desert View Watchtower are the Tusayan Ruins and Museum which helps visitors understand how the Pueblo Native Americans lived in the Grand Canyon over 800 years ago.  Visitors can take a self-guided tour of the ruins or check the park guide for when NPS rangers offer more detailed guided tours.  The Tusayan Museum is open daily with free admission and features exhibits which display twig figurines, pottery and other items of the Pueblo Native Americans.

Tusayan Ruins    Tusayan Museum

These are just some of the things to see on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon, for more information and other suggestions, please see the click on the Grand Canyon National Park website link, www.nps.gov/grca

North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park

The North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park is opened from May to October every year and closed during the winter months; it is usually less crowded than the popular South Rim.  The distance from the bottom of the South Rim to the North Rim is a 21 mile hike.  Travel time by car from the South Rim to the North Rim will take about five hours; it is 220 mile drive if you are visiting both areas of the Grand Canyon National Park.

The Grand Canyon Lodge is located at Bright Angel Point and it is one of the overnight accommodations within the North Rim Area of the park.  Built in 1927, the Grand Canyon Lodge was designed by Gilbert Underwood and the main building is located near the edge of the canyon rim and features a restaurant and gift shop and there are also 23 deluxe cabins and 91 standard cabins.  The Lodge was constructed from local limestone which blends beautifully with the rock formations of the canyon.  For more rustic accommodations, there is also a campground within this area of the North Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park.  (Travel Note: Be sure to make advance reservations if you are planning to stay overnight in the park)

Grand Canyon Lodge

A short walk from the Grand Canyon Lodge is the North Rim Visitor Center which is a great place for visitors to find park information regarding current climate and road conditions, get park maps or brochures and view exhibits; there is also a small bookstore.

Grand Canyon Visitor Center - North Rim

Grand Canyon National Park activities

Travel Advisory: The weather at the Grand Canyon can be very hot, so please be prepared with plenty of bottled drinking water if you are planning any outdoor activities!

Most visitors that go to the Grand Canyon National Park drive to the vista points or walk a short distance along the rim to enjoy the views of the canyon or perhaps to catch a glimpse of the Colorado River far below.  Some visitors come prepared for hikes into the canyon down the Bright Angel Trail that take all day or maybe longer hikes with an overnight at Phantom Ranch located at the bottom of the canyon on the banks of the Colorado River.  (Travel Note: Please be check at the park visitor center to see if a backcountry hiking permit is required for the trail that you will be hiking on. Also, be aware that advance reservations are need for the Phantom Ranch if you are planning on staying overnight)

Listed below are a few more activities available in Grand Canyon National Park –

Mule Rides are an exciting way to see the Grand Canyon and are a very popular park activity that book up very quickly.  The South Rim Mule Ride guests will be picked up by a bus in the Grand Canyon Village and taken to the mule barn located near the South Kaibab Trailhead.  After a brief orientation, guides will accompany the riders and mules on a four mile round trip down into the canyon and out to the Abyss Overlook, the ride will take approximately two hours.  There are also overnight trips available, the mule ride will follow the same trail out to the overlook point but then proceed further into the canyon to the Phantom Ranch.  There is also a North Rim Mule Ride for guests staying in that area of the park.  Visitors can reserve either a one hour ride along the rim of the canyon or the longer half day trip that takes visitors to either Uncle Jim’s Point or into the canyon down the North Kaibab Trail.  (Travel Note: When planning a trip to the park, make reservations as soon as possible, visitors can book up to 13 months in advance.  Also please be advised that there are physical limitations and age restrictions for the mule rides)

Colorado River Trips

Colorado River trips are another exciting way for visitors to see the Grand Canyon.  Unlike the view from the rim looking down into the canyon, a river trip allows visitors to see the canyon looking up from the Colorado River.  A search on the internet will give numerous companies offering river trips ranging from smooth water raft trips for the family to the more adventurous whitewater raft trips.  The raft trips available can range in length from easy one day trips to more strenuous multi-day trips which require overnight camping or a stay at the Phantom Ranch.  (Travel Note: This blog makes no recommendations for Colorado River trips but we do advise visitors to thoroughly research the river raft companies before making any reservations.  For private trips, permits are required so please check the requirements and availability when planning a Colorado River trip)

Airline / Helicopter Tours

An airline or helicopter tours offer visitors another perspective for viewing the Grand Canyon.  High above the canyons, visitors can see for miles and the views are spectacular.  Much like the Colorado River trips, a search on the internet will give numerous companies offering helicopter tours available from 30 minutes to several hours in length and taking off from airports near the Grand Canyon to as far away as Phoenix, AZ and Las Vegas, NV.  (Travel Note: This blog makes no recommendations for helicopter tours but we do advise visitors to thoroughly research the companies before making any reservations)

 

Travel – Disneyland’s Pirates of the Caribbean

Pirates - entrance at night

Our family has been enjoying Disneyland for almost sixty years and we have so many memories of spending wonderful times at the park.  One of the first things we do on a visit is head over to New Orleans Square to ride one of the most popular rides in the park … Pirates of the Caribbean.  We also enjoy eating at the Blue Bayou which is the restaurant located within the ride and is famous for its Monte Cristo Sandwich.  In this post I will discuss the history of the Disneyland attraction, the many changes to the ride over the years and some fun Pirates of the Caribbean trivia.

The history of the Pirates of the Caribbean ride at Disneyland

The idea for a pirate themed attraction dates back to the early 1950s, when Disneyland was being planned, and there was a ride concept for a walk-through wax museum featuring scenes with famous pirates for history, but that idea was put on hold and never built.  Instead, at the time that Disneyland opened Anaheim, CA in 1955, there was a Pirate themed attraction located in Fantasyland and it was Captain Hook’s Pirate Ship Restaurant sponsored by Chicken of the Sea and later in 1960 Skull Rock from the 1953 Disney animated movie “Peter Pan” was added.  Both attractions remained at Disneyland for several years until the 1982 refurbishment of the New Fantasyland, the Dumbo attraction now stands where the former Captain Hook’s Pirate Ship and Skull Rock where originally located.  (Currently, Captain Hook’s Pirate Ship Restaurant and Skull Rock can be seen again in Adventureland at Disneyland Paris in France)

By this time, the Disney Company had a separate division that was responsible for the creation and construction of the Disney theme park; it was originally known as WED which are the initials of Walter Elias Disney.  The staff of visual artists and engineers was collectively known as imagineers, a name meaning employees that combined imagination and engineering to design and build rides for the Disney theme park.  Several years later, when Walt was considering creating a new “land” called New Orleans Square at Disneyland he decided the time was right to finally create a pirate ride.

New Orleans Square - concept artwork

When the It’s a Small World attraction was created for the 1964 New York World’s Fair it featured a new ride technology using water propelled boats but more importantly it was very successful in moving a large number of guests through the attraction in a timely manner and this was exactly what Walt needed for the new pirate ride that he envisioned.  So, Walt and his imagineers decided to utilize the same boat ride system that would take guests through the ride to see various scenes featuring audio-animatronic pirates. The relatively new technology of audio-animatronics was basically a type of robotics that was able to make figures move in a realistic way, this was accomplished by means of pneumatic and hydraulic valves used inside the figures and controlled by sonic impulses with a vocal track recorded on a magnetic tape.  With these two new technologies as the basis for the new ride concept the imagineers quickly moved forward with ideas.

Herb Ryman, the famous Disney artist that created the original drawings for Disneyland, drew some preliminary sketches that would eventually determine the overall design of New Orleans Square, another Disney artist named Sam McKim also helped with creating the final designs.  The new pirate ride would be located in one of the buildings in New Orleans Square and this determined the amount of space allowed for the Pirates of the Caribbean attraction.  Marc Davis, a former Disney animator, was now working as an imagineer for WED and he is responsible for the overall interior design of the ride and created numerous sketches, drawings and paintings depicting the various scenes of the pirates attacking, raiding and eventually setting fire to a village.  The next step in the process of creating the ride was for the imagineers to utilize storyboards to create a cohesive storyline as guests would move from one scene to another scene; this same technique of storyboards was used frequently by the Disney Studios when plotting out their animated movies.  The storyboards of the pirate ride were constantly being revised as scenes were added, changed or eliminated.  Once the storyboards were finalized, the next step was to create working small-scale models of the various scenes which would be used for the ride.  Using small inexpensive models was a better way to keep building costs down by making changes on the models instead on the more expensive full-sized structures.

Pirates - concept artwork    Marc Davis developing Pirates concept boards

Now that the Pirate of the Caribbean ride designs where finished it was time to build.  The new ride would be located in New Orleans Square which was designed with several antebellum-style buildings containing shops and restaurants.  The main building where the ride would be located is a multi-level structure with the majority of the ride located under the building and streets of New Orleans Square.  The first step in the ride construction was excavating a large area to accommodate the space for the ride’s various village scenes.   The next step was laying the guide rails for the pirate boats that would take guests through the ride, eventually the ride would use 750,000 gallons of water to propel the boats and also create the scenic areas of the ride.  Two 21-degree drops were required at the beginning of the ride to take guests underground and into the main show building located beyond the berm of the park.  At the end of the ride, the boat needed to get back to the ground level and this was achieved by the guests remaining in the boats as a chain pulley system, similar to the technique used to pull a roll coaster uphill, was used to return guests to the loading/unloading area of the ride.  (When the Pirates of the Caribbean ride was added to Walt Disney World in Florida, the boat path was revised so that guests unloaded before the ascent)

Please note that some of the photos of the New Orleans Square and Pirates of the Caribbean construction shown below were originally used on the davelandblog.com website.

Pirates - exterior construction 2Pirates - exterior construction 1    Pirates - interior constuction 1

As the building process was going on, imagineer Blaine Gibson was heading up a team to create the pirate figures for the ride.  The look of the figures changed from fierce looking pirates to more whimsical ones to be used in some of the more humorous scenes of the ride.  Before the figures could be added, the various ride scenes needed to be constructed.  These scenes ranged from the quiet bayou scene located after the guest load area and before the two drops, to the dark and mysterious caverns after plunging down the waterfall, to the misty scene where the pirates attack the village, to the numerous scenes of the pirates pillaging the village just before the ride comes to a fiery end.

Then in 1966, as the ride was nearing completion, Walt Disney suddenly died.  Walt’s health had severely deteriorated after years of smoking.  Always concerned more for the good of his company then his personal health, Walt kept his condition as quite as possible telling only his family, a few close friends and co-workers that he need to be hospitalize to have one of his lungs removed.  The company’s employees and stockholders were told that he was receiving treatment for an old polo injury so as not to effect the daily and long term operation of the Disney Company.  Sadly, Walt died on December 15, 1966.  After a brief period of mourning the work on the Pirates attraction resumed and was eventually completed three months later with an official opening date of March 18, 1967.

Pirates - Captains quarters    Pirates - the loot
 

Pirates - the auction scene 1    Pirates - looting scene
 

Pirates - jail scene

The Pirates of the Caribbean attraction was a success from the day it opened and over the years it has become one of the most popular rides at Disneyland.  Later, other versions were built in the Disney theme parks using different facades but always with the interior ride being very similar to the original one.  The Magic Kingdom (Walt Disney World) Pirates of the Caribbean ride opened in 1973, Tokyo Disneyland in 1983, Disneyland Paris in 1992 and currently one is under construction at the Shanghai Disneyland with a projected opening date of December 2015.

Pirates - Walt Disney World    Pirates - Disneyland Paris

Pirates of the Caribbean ride trivia

  • The Pirates of the Caribbean ride was the last Disneyland attraction that was personally supervised by Walt Disney from ride concept and design through to construction, he died three months before the official opening.
  • The Pirates of the Caribbean ride cost approximately $8 million dollars to build in Disneyland which is almost equal to the amount paid to France when the United States negotiated the Louisiana Purchase in 1803 which included the city of New Orleans.
  • The Disneyland Pirates of the Caribbean ride is contained in two large show buildings covering a total of 112,826 feet.  located beyond the berm of the park. 
  • The ride uses 750,000 gallons of water which flows through the 1,838 feet length of the ride’s canals.   
  • There are approximately 122 audio animatronic characters (68 pirates and villagers and 54 animals) used on the Pirates of the Caribbean ride
  • The façade of the main building to the attraction is said to have been inspired by the architecture of the Cabildo building located in Jackson Square in New Orleans, the building was the site where the Louisiana Purchase was signed in 1803.
  • Atop the tall tower of the main building of the Pirates attraction a 31 star United States flag can be seen, this corresponding to the 1850s which is the time period that New Orleans Square is supposed to be set.
  • The Laffite Landing sign which hangs over the Pirates of the Caribbean boat load/unload area is for the famous pirate, Jean Lafitte, who fought with the U.S. Army during the War of 1812 at the Battle of New Orleans.  (The name is spelled as the pirate originally used it and not the later English version which is how it is written in the history books)
  • The Pirate of the Caribbean ride features the memorable song, “Yo-Ho, a Pirates Life for Me”.  The music is by George Bruns and the lyrics are by Francis Xavier Atencio.  Bruns is best known as the co-writer of another Disney classic, “The Ballad of Davy Crockett”.  Atencio wrote the theme song for the Haunted Mansion attraction, “Grim Grinning Ghosts”.  Atencio voice can also be heard on the Pirates ride as the Jolly Roger skull and crossbones just before the boat plunges down the first waterfall.
  • In the battle scene of the Pirates of the Caribbean ride cannonballs seem to be flying over the guests as they ride through, but it is only a Disney illusion using recorded sounds and flashes of light are used to create the effect that cannon are firing from the pirate ship and also on land from the village fortress.  A splash of water gives the effect that the cannonballs are missing their targets and landing in the water, recently puffs of air have been added to create the addition effect of the cannonballs flying past.
  • In the village pillaging scenes, the original version of the ride featured several pirates chasing giggling ladies, on was even seen chasing after a pirate!  When guests complained about the “sexual implication” of the scene it was altered to reflect a more “chaise” behavior.  The ladies now carrying cakes, pastries and other food items that the starving pirates want.  An interesting observation is that the bride auction scene remains unchanged.
  • Toward the end of the ride, the pirates set fire to the village.  The fire effect created by the Disney imagineers was so realistic that prior the attraction’s grand opening the Anaheim Fire Chief almost shut down the ride until he realized that it was only an illusion. (The fire is basically created by pieces of fabric, lights and fans!) The Anaheim Fire Department did request that the ride should be altered so that in the event of a real fire the simulated fire effect would automatically shut off.
  • On the upper level of the building of Pirates of the Carribbean building was originally planned for a private apartment for the personal use of the Disney family.  Located at the front of the building, slightly to the right side, is where the front veranda for the Disney apartment would have been and there is a wrought iron railing which incorporates the intertwined initials of Walt Disney (WD) and Roy Disney (RD).  The Disney apartment which was never fully completed was eventually converted into the Disney Gallery which was a retail store and showroom featuring Disney artwork and collectible items.  In 2007, the space was refurbished and reopened as the Disneyland Dream Suite which is the only overnight guest accommodations located within Disneyland.
  • In 2003, Disney released the “Pirates of the Caribbean: The Curse of the Black Pearl” movie which was inspired by the original Disneyland ride.  Some scenes in the movie featured iconic ride scenes, such as the jail scene with the pirates trying to get the keys from the mouth of the dog.  Even the famous “Yo-Ho, A Pirates Life For Me” song was used in the movie.  The film’s world premiere was held at Disneyland and featured the longest red carpet in history; it went from Main Street to New Orleans Square.  The movie proved to be very successful and additional sequels have been filmed, in fact the fifth installation of the Pirates of the Caribbean series is currently being filmed.
  • Following the success of the Pirates of the Caribbean film series, several characters from the movies have been added to the ride.  The character of Jack Sparrow, played by Johnny Depp, appears several times in various village scenes and Captain Barbossa, played by Geoffrey Rush, can be seen on the pirate ship as it attacks the village.  Additionally, one of the most impressive effects of adding the movie’s character into the ride is when the faces of Davy Jones (from “Dead Man’s Chest” and “At World’s End”) and Blackbeard (from “On Stranger Tides”) were projected onto the mist before the second waterfall drop.  Recently mermaids from “On Stranger Tides” have also been added to the ride.

Pirates - Johnny Depp 2

Travel – Clarence House

Clarence House - exterior 2 south front

Clarence House has been the royal residence of many members of the British Royal Family throughout the last 170 years.  In this post I will discuss the history of the Clarence House and the famous royal family members that have lived there.  I will also discuss the building’s exterior architecture and the interior design throughout the years and give a brief tour of some of the rooms of the first floor of Clarence House.

The History of Clarence House

Clarence House is located in the City of Westminster and is adjacent to St. James Palace.  It was commissioned by the Prince William, Duke of Clarence, designed by John Nash and built between 1825 and 1827.  After the death of his brother, King George IV, Buckingham Palace was still under construction and the new King William IV decided he preferred his home at Clarence House and remained there until his death in 1837.  (Royal Note: When the House of Parliament was severely damaged by a fire in 1834, King William offered Buckingham Palace as its new location but the offer was declined)

Clarence House - engraving 1874

After the death of King William, Princess Augusta, his unmarried sister moved into Clarence House and lived there until her own death in 1840.  The next royal family member to make Clarence House their home was Victoria the Duchess of Kent, she was the mother of Queen Victoria and she lived there from 1841 to 1861.

After the death of the Duchess of Kent, Clarence House remained vacant for five years until the Victoria’s second son, Prince Alfred the Duke of Edinburgh moved there in 1866.  Over the next 40 years he was frequently gone because he was traveling the world with the British Navy or making Royal visits as the Queen’s representative in foreign countries.  During that time he married the Grand Duchess Marie Alexandrovna, the daughter of Alexander II the Tsar of Russia, in 1874 and Clarence House was renovated and decorated in a more lavish and grand style.  Then in 1893, Prince Alfred became the Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha and moved his family to Germany but he retained Clarence House for his personal use on his visits back to England until his death in 1900.  (Royal Note: Prince Alfred inherited the title from his uncle, Duke Ernest, who was the older brother of Prince Albert, his father)

After the death of Prince Alfred, Queen Victoria’s third son, Prince Arthur the Duke of Connaught and Strathearn moved into Clarence House and it became his London residence.  Prince Arthur was frequently gone because of his extended overseas duties with the British Army in both India and Canada; he also served as Governor-General of Canada from 1911 to 1916.  Eventually Prince Arthur returned to England after his world travels and he lived at Clarence House until his death in 1942.

With the death of Prince Arthur and the onset World War II, Clarence House served another purpose other than a royal residence and during the war it was used by the British Red Cross Headquarters with over two hundred staff members of the Foreign Relations Department who worked on behalf of the British prisoners of war held overseas.

After the war, Clarence House was in need of extensive repairs because the building had sustained some damage during the German bombing raids on London and the surrounding area.  When the renovations were completed Princess Elizabeth and her new husband, Prince Phillip the Duke of Edinburgh moved into Clarence House in 1949 and they lived there during the early years of their marriage.  In 1953, after the death of her father, King George VI, the newly crowned Queen Elizabeth moved from Clarence House to Buckingham Palace with her husband and two small children.  (Royal Note: Prince Charles was just a toddler when his parents moved into Clarence House and his sister, Princess Anne was actually born there on August 15, 1950)

Clarence House - Royal family

After the death of her husband, King George, the dowager Queen now known as Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother and her daughter Princess Margaret moved from the Buckingham Palace and into Clarence House.  In 1960, after Princess Margaret married Antony Armstrong-Jones the royal couple moved into Kensington Palace.  The Queen Mother remained at Clarence House as the sole resident but surrounded by her loving and devoted staff of servants.  The Queen Mother loved to lavishly entertain and she enjoyed tea parties and formal dinners which many foreign Heads of State and famous celebrities attended throughout the years.  (Royal Note: One important guest that stayed at Clarence House was Princess Diana and prior to her engagement announcement to Prince Charles she moved in and stayed with the Queen Mother until her wedding day in 1981)

Clarence House - Queen Mother and Princess Margaret 1954

But perhaps one of the most famous events in recent years was the Queen Mother’s annual birthday appearances at the gates of Clarence House on Stable Yard Road to greet the public.  This tradition started for her 70th birthday in 1970 and continued until 2001 for her 101th birthday, the beloved Queen Mother died in 2002.

Clarence House - Queen Mother at  birthday gate

Currently Clarence House is the official London residence of Prince Charles, the Prince of Wales, and his wife Camilla, the Duchess of Cornwall.  After the death of their mother, Princess Diana, in 1977 her sons split their time between their father’s house, Highgrove, near Tetbury in Gloucestershire and then later at Clarence House.  Prince William lived at Clarence House from 2003 until his marriage to Kate Middleton in 2011 and Prince Harry lived there from 2003 until 2012 when he also moved to Kensington Palace.  (Royal Note: When Prince William moved out of Clarence House after his marriage he moved into the same apartment at Kensington Palace that Princess Margaret once occupied until her death in 2002.  It is believed that the Prince decided that his mother’s, Princess Diana, former apartment at Kensington Palace held too many memories and it would be too bittersweet to return to his childhood home).

The Architecture and Interior Design of Clarence House

Clarence House was built next to St. James Palace and it was the preferred residence of King William IV.  He commissioned the architect John Nash to design the building while he was still the Duke of Clarence and it was completed in 1827.  Throughout the years, Clarence House has seen many changes and alterations by the various members of the royal family that have lived in the house and bears little resemblance to the original building that Nash designed.  At the time that the Duke of Clarence moved into the building it was a three-story structure that was constructed on a corner lot located on the south-west side of St. James Palace with the main entrance facing Stable Yard Road.  The Duchess of Clarence decorated the interior of their new home in a refined style and it was very simple when compared to St. James Palace or later the luxurious Buckingham Palace.

The next resident to make significant changes to Clarence House was Prince Alfred, the second son of Queen Victoria.  When the Duke of Edinburgh married the Grand Duchess Maria Alexandrovna of Russia in 1874 he had Clarence House enlarged and redecorated.  He had a fourth-story added to the structure and the main entrance was relocated to the south side of the building and featured Doric columns.  A Russian Orthodox chapel was also added on the first floor for his wife.

Clarence House - Russian Orthodox Temple

After the death of Prince Alfred, his brother Prince Arthur moved into Clarence House.  When he married Princess Louise of Prussia the rooms were renovated with oak paneling and plaster molding and decorated in a distinct Victorian style with overstuffed furnishings and numerous items gathered by the Prince during his world travels, there is documentation listing over 400 pieces of oriental porcelain, bronze and jade figurines belonging to the Prince.

Then, after the death of Prince Arthur, Clarence House was used as the headquarters of the Red Cross during World War II and many of the rooms were altered to accommodate over 200 workers.  When the war ended the building needed to be reconstructed and the exterior was completely redone because it had been severely damaged during the German bombing of London.

By 1949, Clarence House became the home of Princess Elizabeth and Prince Philip.  After their 1947 wedding it took two years to complete renovations to the building before they could move in.  Despite the fact that Princess Elizabeth was the eldest daughter of King George VI and heir to the throne, their home was very simple and elegantly decorated.  The royal couple enjoyed their time in Clarence House and lived quietly there for only a few years until King George died after a lengthy illness.  The new Queen Elizabeth II moved into Buckingham Palace with her husband and two small children.

At that time, the decision was made that the Queen Mother and her youngest daughter Princess Margaret would move from Buckingham Palace and into the Clarence House but before that could happen the interior rooms needed to be refurbished and the building needed to be completely rewired.  When the house was redecorated the Queen Mother furnished the rooms with her large collection of important British artwork and wonderful decorative items such as Faberge and beautiful English porcelain and silver pieces.

Over the next 70 years, Clarence House was the site for many of the Queen Mother’s official and private dinners and afternoon teas.  The table was always set with beautiful china and polished silver which made the perfect setting for deliciously prepared meals and best wines were served.  Foreign Heads of State who would customary see the dowager Queen at the start of their State Visit to England and the Queen Mother also entertained an eclectic mix of famous celebrities and ordinary citizens from the her various charities.

When the Queen Mother died in 2002, Clarence House became the official London residence of her grandson Prince Charles.  Before the Prince of Wales and his wife, Camilla, the Duchess of Cornwall could move into the house it took almost a year to complete the extensive renovations and redecorations.  As a tribute to his beloved grandmother, the Prince retained the basic color schemes of the rooms and positioned some of the Queen Mother’s furnishings back to their original placement in the rooms.  He also used numerous pieces from the Queen Mother’s art collection combined with his own personal collection.

A Brief Tour of Clarence House

Clarence House is open to the public only during two months each summer and visitors can take a guided tour which includes several rooms on the ground floor.  The tour starts with a walk through the garden and through the famous “Queen Mother’s Birthday” gate and then into Clarence House.

General view of Clarence House

Once inside Clarence House visitors will be in the Entrance Hall and then they will proceed into the Lancaster Room which is normally used as a reception room for the personal guests of the Prince of Wales and the Duchess of Cornwall.  The room was given the name because the people of Lancaster generously gifted money to Princess Elizabeth and the Duke of Edinburgh for their wedding in 1947 and the funds were used to decorate and furnish this room of Clarence House.

Clarence House - Entrance Hall Clarence House - Lancaster Room

The Morning Room is located on the other side of the Entrance Hall and is currently used by the Prince of Wales and the Duchess of Cornwall when they entertain their guests.  The Morning Room was the Queen Mother’s favorite room when she lived in Clarence House and Prince Charles chose to decorate it with several of his grandmother’s personal items, such as her collection of Royal Anchor Chelsea porcelain.  Two paintings of important historical significance displayed in this room are of two former residents of Clarence House.  The first is a small portrait set on the fireplace mantel which shows the Queen Mother in 1908 when she was simply known as Lady Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon.  The second one is the first official portrait of a seven year old Princess Elizabeth now known as Queen Elizabeth II and the daughter of the Queen Mother and the mother of Prince Charles.

 Clarence House - Morning Room 2    Photographer: Christopher Simon Sykes

The Morning Room is customarily used for official portraits taken on special occasions, such as 2012 when Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip posed with their sons and daughters for their 65th wedding anniversary and in 2013 for Prince George’s christening.  (Royal Note: The Chippendale gilded sofa that is seen in both photos is part of a set of two sofas and two bergeres chairs dating back to 1773 and originally commissioned by the Duke of Gloucester)

Clarence House - Morning Room - Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillips 65th wedding anniversary    

The Library is located adjacent to the Morning Room and hung on the wall, on either side of the double door entrance, are portraits of the Prince’s grandmother and mother.  Both paintings are by the Russian artist Savely Sorine, the first was done in 1923 and captures the Queen Mother at the age of twenty-three when she was the Duchess of York and the second was done in 1948 and shows Queen Elizabeth II at the age of twenty-two.

Clarence House - Library 2    Clarence House - Library 1

Another set of double doors lead from the Library into the Dining Room.  The dining table is set for a formal dinner with lovely china, beautiful crystal glasses and silverware.  A portrait of the Queen Mother is hung above the fireplace as another tribute to Clarence House’s most famous resident; the portrait remains unfinished because of the onset of World War II.  (Royal Note: When the Queen Mother dined she sat in the middle chair with her back to the fireplace and if Prince Charles was present he sat directly across from her.  Today the Prince retains that tradition and sits in the middle of the table facing the portrait of the Queen Mother)

Clarence House - Dining Room

The final room of the tour is the Garden Room which is said to be Prince Charles favorite room and is filled with his personal items gathered from his world travels.  Some notable items in the room are a large tapestry formerly owned by Napoleon III that the Prince acquired in France and a Welsh harp representing the Prince’s close ties with Wales.  Positioned in a prominent place in the room is a Chinese lacquer writing desk that originally belonged to Queen Mary, the piece was made in the 1700s in Germany.  (Royal Note:  Another treasured item that once belonged to the Queen Mother is a signed copy of “The Noel Coward Song Book”, the playwright was a personal friend)

This concludes the tour of Clarence House and visitors will proceed back down the corridor to the Entrance Hall and exit back into the garden.

For more information about the longest resident of Clarence House, Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, please click on the link.  For information about two of the other royal residences in London, Buckingham Palace and Kensington Palace, please click on the links.