Travel – Biltmore Estate in Asheville, NC

Biltmore Estate

Moving to the Midwest gave us the opportunity to visit so many wonderful new places … and we love to travel!!  One of those places on our “must see list” was the Biltmore Estate in Asheville, North Carolina.  We decided to go in January 2008 with plans that grew to include 14 family members from 4 different states.  Everybody was responsible for their own transportation and hotel reservations.  It turned out to be a wonderful extended weekend not only visiting the Biltmore but we also got to spend some quality time with three generations of family members.

HISTORY OF THE BILTMORE ESTATE

In 1880, at a time known as the Gilded Age, George Vanderbilt and his mother made regular visits to Asheville, North Carolina.  George loved the area and the climate so much that he wanted to build a summer home there, his “little mountain escape”.  The idea was to create a working estate similar to the ones found in Europe.  Construction of the main building began in 1889 and was finally completed in 1895.  It is the largest privately owned home in the United States at 175,000 square feet with 250 rooms.  Vanderbilt commissioned Richard Morris Hunt, a New York architect, to design the house in a Chateausque style.  Vanderbilt also hired landscape architect Frederick Olmstead to design the gardens which are bordered by a natural forest.

Biltmore Gardens

Vanderbilt intended for the estate to be self-supporting and he set-up several different farms involving poultry, cattle, hogs and also a dairy to provide milk and cheese products for the Biltmore kitchens.  In 1901, Vanderbilt established Biltmore Industries which made furniture inspired by those furnishings found on the estate and this provided local employment in the community.

At the time of Vanderbilt’s death in 1914, it is believed that his inheritance and personal wealth was significantly depleted due to the construction, maintenance and lavish entertaining expenses of the Biltmore Estate.  Edith was forced to sell 85,000 of the original 125,000 acres to the federal government as stipulated in her husband’s will with the provision that the land remain unaltered and eventually this property became the Pisqah National Forest.  Vanderbilt’s only child, Cornelia, opened the Biltmore House to the public in 1930 and family members continued to live there until 1956.  In 1964, the Biltmore was designated a National Historic Landmark.  Currently, the Biltmore Estate is still controlled by the Vanderbilt family and managed under the name of the Biltmore Company.

BRIEF TOUR OF THE BILTMORE ESTATE

Over one million visitors annually come to visit this major tourist attraction in Western North Carolina that includes the Biltmore House with 75 acres of formal gardens, several restaurants and gift shops, a winery and a 213 room hotel, the Inn on Biltmore Estate.

Upon entering the Biltmore House, visitors are immediately impressed by the elegant design of the Entrance Hall with the soaring limestone arches and limestone floors, the Victorian-style glass roofed Winter Garden room and the Grand Staircase.  Other rooms on the first floor include:  The Library which is filled with Vanderbilt’s massive book collection of more than 23,000 books; he was an avid reader and began acquiring books at the age of 11.  The Banquet Hall which is the largest room in the house with a 70 foot high barrel vaulted ceiling, a massive oak dining table with 64 chairs and a unique triple fireplace.  Additional rooms on this floor are the Salon with adjoining Music Room on the left and Breakfast room on the right.  The Billiard Room also leads into an area known as the Bachelor’s Wing with a Smoking Room and Gun Room.

Biltmore - Winter Garden RoomBiltmore - LibraryBiltmore - Banquet Room

Ascending the Grand Staircase, rooms located on the second floor of the house are centered on a formal sitting area where guests would meet prior to meals or other activities hosted by the Vanderbilts at the Biltmore Estate.  This is an area for guests to socialize, play games, read or write letters.   Located nearby is the Vanderbilt’s private suite of rooms that included: Mr. Vanderbilt’s bedroom which is filled with carved walnut furnishings, 17th century engravings and 19th century French bronze sculptures.  Mrs. Vanderbilt’s oval-shaped bedroom is a very feminine room designed with silk wall coverings, cut-velvet drapes and bedding.  Additional elegantly decorated and spacious guests’ rooms are also located on the second and third floors with equally elegant names such as: the Sheraton Room, the Chippendale Room, Van Dyck Room and the Madonna Room.

Biltmore - Mr. Vanderbilt's Bedroom  Bitmore - Mrs. Vanderbilt's Bedroom

The Downstairs area is mainly the work space of the house with several kitchens, pantries, laundry rooms and servants’ bedrooms.  Also located on this floor are several recreational rooms for the Vanderbilts’ guests, such as the swimming pool, gymnasium, bowling and several dressing rooms.  In a former storage area that became known as the Halloween Room, this room  was later used by the Vanderbilt’s daughter, Cornelia and her husband, for hosting lively parties where guests were known to paint imaginative murals on the walls.

TRAVEL TIPS AND SUGGESTIONS

  • Arrive early to the Biltmore Estate.  We stayed in Asheville, NC at the Marriott Courtyard and arrived the day before to rest and relax from the 6 hour drive from our home.  The next day we were able to be there when the box office opened to start the house tour before it became too crowded.
  • Allow plenty of time at the Biltmore Estate.  I recommended at least two days touring not only the Biltmore house and gardens, but also wine tasting at the winery and the restaurants and shops at the Biltmore Village.  There are other things to do in Asheville, such as: biking, hiking, horseback riding, antique shopping, etc.  We also made a quick visit to the Thomas Wolfe house and museum located in Asheville which was very interesting.
  • Generally a visit during Sunday to Thursday is less crowded.  Also, consider getting tickets in advance and make reservations online or by phone.  Guests who arrive without reservations are not guaranteed tickets during busy weekends or the holiday season.
  • Dress in comfortable clothes and shoes, dress in layers because the mountain weather can be very unpredictable.  When we visited in late January the weather was comfortable in Asheville, but at the top of the mountain at the Biltmore Estate the wind was very cold and we were glad to have our warm jackets!
  • Parking is free and shuttle buses take you from the parking lot to the Biltmore House.  In order to see the other areas of the Estate, such as the beautiful gardens, the Deerpark restaurant, the winery or the Biltmore Village for shopping, you will need your car to drive to those separate areas.
  • Even though a tour of the Biltmore House is self-guided, we highly recommend the audio tour which provides interesting historical and architectural information that enhanced our visit.
  • The night before our visit to the Biltmore House we a delicious buffet and attentive service at the Deerpark restaurant.  “The Restaurant is housed in a historic barn original to the estate. Enjoy prepared-to-order specialties in addition to classic favorites like hand-carved prime rib. The delightful courtyard restaurant specializes in Southern family-style dishes.”  We highly recommend making a reservation.

Travel – United States Mint

U.S. Deptartment of the Treasury Seal

Today in history the U.S. Treasury Department was established in 1789.  This post will discuss the history of the Treasury Department and the functions of the Bureau of Engraving and Printing located in Washington, D.C. and the U.S. Mint which has several locations across the United States.

 A Brief History of the U.S. Treasury Department

Established by an act of Congress in 1789, the Department of the Treasury is an executive department of the U.S. federal government.  The first Secretary of the Treasury was Alexander Hamilton.  He was appointed by President George Washington and sworn in on September 11, 1789.  During his five years as the Treasury Secretary, he established the nation’s first financial system.

Currently, the U.S. Treasury Department prints all paper currency and postage stamps at the Bureau of Engraving and Printing located in Washington, D.C. and the U.S. Mints create all coins in circulation throughout the United States.  The Treasury Department manages all the United States federal finances, supervises the national banks and lending institutions, advises on domestic and international financial, economic and trade policies, and enforces and collects all federal taxes while investigating and prosecuting tax evaders through the Internal Revenue Service.

The Bureau of Engraving and Printing

The Bureau of Engraving and Printing is a government agency of the U.S. Treasury Department which designs and produces a variety of secured products for the United States Government, mainly the Federal Reserve Notes (paper currency).

Bureau of Engraving Printing in Washington, D.C.

The Bureau began in 1861 during the Civil War and was authorized by Congress to issue paper currency instead of coins due to the lack of funds needed to support the war.  The paper currency was basically a government IOU and were called Demand Notes which were payable “on demand” in coin at the Treasury facilities.  At the time, a private company produced the Demand Notes in sheets of four, then clerks would sign the individual notes by hand and workers would trim and cut the sheets into individual Demand Notes.

Initially the currency processing operations of the Treasury Department were not formally organized until the formation of the Bureau of Engraving and Printing which was officially recognized by congressional legislation in 1874.

By 1918 the plate capacity used in the printing presses increased from four to eight notes per sheet to meet the production requirements needed during World War I.  Then in 1929, there was the first major design change in paper currency.  The bill design was standardized and the size of each bill was reduced and the Bureau converted from the eight to twelve notes per sheet.  This redesign helped to reduce paper costs and counterfeit deterrents were implemented for the general public to recognize the bills features.

In 1952, there were further improvements with new faster-drying inks that enable printed back sheets to be kept damp until the front sheets were printed allowing less distortion since the sheets needed to be dampened before each printing.  The size of each sheet was also increased from twelve to eighteen notes per sheet.  Then in 1957, the Bureau began printing currency with the dry intaglio method which uses special paper and inks and further increased from eighteen to thirty-two notes per sheets.  Since 1968, all currency has been printed using this method of the dry intaglio and the need to wet each paper prior to printing was permanently eliminated.

With the dry intaglio process, the note engravings were transferred to steel plates.  With this new method the ink is applied directly to the plates and then wiped clean leaving the ink only in the engraved lines.  The plate is pressed against the sheet of paper allowing the ink to be applied.  Both faces are printed and overprinted with the Treasury Seals and serial numbers.

In addition to paper currency, the Bureau has designed and printed a variety of secured products for the U.S. federal government over the years.  These items have included military commissions and award certificates, invitations for White House events, passports for the State Department, money orders for the Post Office Department and many different types of identification cards, forms and special security documents for all types of government agencies.

In 1894, the Bureau took over the production of postage stamps for the United States government and by the end of that first year the stamp production was more than 2.1 billion stamps.  Then in 2005, the United States Postal Service switched to private postage stamp printers and thus ended 111 years of production by the Bureau.

The Bureau of Engraving and Printing has two locations.  The main location in Washington, D.C. offers a free 30-minute guided tour which features information regarding the various phases of currency production. Tours are available Monday through Friday. There is an additional Bureau location in Fort Worth, Texas with visitor tours available during business hours. The Bureau locations are closed for all federal holidays and the week between Christmas and New Year’s Day.

The United States Mint

The United States Mint was created by Congress with the Coinage Act of 1792 and was originally a part of the Department of State. In 1799, the Mint was made an independent agency and later in 1873 it became part of the Department of the Treasury.

The function of the U.S. Mint is to design and produce coins, commemorative medals, and special coins, in addition to safeguarding, controlling and disbursing gold and silver bullion for authorized federal government purposes.

Currently there are four coin producing locations, the Mint’s headquarters in Philadelphia, PA.   and additional facilities in Denver, San Francisco and West Point, New York and a gold bullion depository at Fort Knox, Kentucky.  Several additional facilities across the United States have opened and closed since the creation of the U.S. Mint.

The Philadelphia Mint –

The Philadelphia Mint is the largest mint and the current facility opened in 1969, there have also been three previous buildings located in Philadelphia.  The Philadelphia location is also the site of the master die production for the U.S. coinage and the design and engraving departments of the U.S. Mint are also located there.

United States Mint Philadelphia

The Denver Mint –

The Denver location began in 1863 as the local assay office five years after the discovery of gold in the area and by the early 1900s the office was bringing in over $5 million in annual gold and silver deposits.  In 1906 the Mint officially opened the new Denver Mint and became coin production.

United States Mint Denver

The San Francisco Mint –

The San Francisco location opened in 1854 during the California Gold Rush but moved to a new location in 1874.  This building was one of the few that survived the 1906 earthquake and closed in 1937 when the current facility was built.  Currently the facility is producing only proof coinage and not general circulation coins.

United States Mint San Francisco

West Point, New York –

The West Point facility is the newest mint location as of 1988.  Originally the West Point Bullion Depository opened in 1937 and cents (pennies) were produced there from 1973 to 1986.  Currently the West Point facility is still used for storage of a portion of the United States gold bullion reserve and produces gold, silver and platinum American Eagle coins.

Fort Knox –

Fort Knox does not produce coins but is a storage facility for the majority of the United States gold and silver bullion reserves.

Fort Knox

In general all coins produced at U.S. Mint facilities are given mintmarks.

Here is the current mintmark information for each coin:

  • Cent: Unlike all other coins, which had their mintmarks on the reverse until 1964, the Lincoln cent or penny has always had the mintmark on the obverse side below the date to the right of Lincoln’s bust since its 1909 introduction.
  • Nickel: The mintmark was located near the rim of the obverse side to the right of Thomas Jefferson’s bust from 1968 to 2005.  With the 2006 redesigned of the obverse of the nickel, the mintmark is now located below the date on the lower right. Many earlier nickels from 1938 to 1964 are still in circulation, and their mintmarks can be found on the reverse side to the right of Monticello, with the exception of the 1942-1945 war nickels.
  • Dime: The mintmark is above the date on the obverse side to the right of Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s bust.
  • Quarter: The mintmark is to the right of George Washington’s bust.
  • Half dollar: The mintmark is below the center of John F. Kennedy’s bust, above the date.
  • Presidential dollar: first issued in 2007: The mintmark and date are found on the rim of the coin.

Tour information regarding the Department of Treasury facilities

The Bureau of Engraving and Printing –

Free tours are offered at both facilities, Washington, D.C. and Fort Worth, TX.  In general, the tours feature the various steps involved in the production of our national currency.  The process starts with large blank sheets of special paper and ends with the finished bills.   For more information regarding hours and dates of each facility, please see the website, www.moneyfactory.gov/tours

The U.S. Mints –

Visiting one of the United States Mints is an exciting experience for all ages.  Free tours cover the history of the Mint and visitors will be able to see the process that takes from the beginning of designing the coins, creating sculptured dies to the actual making of the coins.  For more information regarding hours and dates of each facility, please see the website, www.usmint.gov/mint_tours

Travel tips and suggestions

  • Check ahead at each facility for safety and security restrictions.  Some may require for adults to provide government-issued photo identification for security purposes.
  • If the Department of Homeland Security level is elevated to CODE ORANGE, the United States Mint at Philadelphia will be CLOSED to the public unless otherwise noted.
  • The United States Mint reserves the right to deny access to anyone at any time; in addition, members of the general public touring the facility may be subject to search by the United States Mint Police.
  • Restrictions regarding cameras and cellphones, purses and backpacks may be prohibited.
  • Photography inside the Department of Treasury buildings is prohibited.
  • TRAVEL NOTE: Advanced planning is a good idea, especially when planning a short visit to the specific cities, and when possible it is a good idea to make reservations if available.

We have been fortunate to have visited the Bureau of Engraving and Printing when we were in Washington, D.C. in 2002.  We also have visited two of the U.S. Mints on our road trips across the United States, the ones in Philadelphia, PA and the Denver, CO.  Taking the tours with the family is always exciting and interesting!!

Travel – Hawaii (the 50th State)

Hawaii 1In celebration of this date in history when Hawaii officially became the 50th State, I would like to share the history of the islands and offer some travel suggestions for each of the main islands that have become known as the Hawaiian Islands.

Hawaii became a state on August 21, 1959 and is the 50th state of the United Sates.  The state is unusual because unlike the “mainland” United States, the state of Hawaii is actually a group of six main volcanic islands that are located in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.  The islands are Hawaii (also known as the Big Island), Maui, Oahu, Kauai, Molokai and Lanai.  Several smaller islands are also included within the state of Hawaii and are not as well known as the major islands in the chain and generally are not included as tourist destinations.

Hawaii Tiki godAnthropologists have found archaeological evidence that dates the earliest human inhabitants on the islands of Hawaii were originally Polynesians from the Marquesas Islands and they arrived on the islands as early as 300-500 AD, there is an ongoing debate regarding a more specific date of the first arrival.  The Polynesians arrived on the shores of Hawaii in double hulled canoes which travel over 3,500 miles across the Pacific Ocean from their original home.  Living in this new land, they lived in harmony with nature and were able to provide seafood to eat while still being careful to conserve the fish in the reefs or streams and to never abuse the land which provided their crops.  These new Hawaiians eventually learned to govern themselves under a set of rules called the Kapu system, and the first chief, Pa’ao, introduced the building of heiaus (Hawaiian temples) and the practice of human sacrifices.

In 1778, Captain James Cook, a British explorer, sailed into Waimea Bay on Kauai becoming the first European to visit the Hawaiian Islands.  Cook returned to the islands again in 1779, this time sailing into Kealakekua Bay on the “Big Island” of Hawaii.  After eight weeks of exploration of the islands, Cook prepared to leave but the foremast of his ship broke and he returned to Kealakekua Bay for repairs. At this point, tensions suddenly grew between the Hawaiians and Cook’s crew and eventually a group of Hawaiian took one of Cook’s smaller boats.  In retaliation Cook’s crew attempted to take Kalaniopuu, the Hawaiian chief, as a hostage in hopes to reclaim their boat in exchange. To prevent their King from being abducted, the Hawaiians attacked Cook and his men as they tried to launch their boat in an attempt to flee and in the confrontation Cook was killed.

King Kamehameha IAt this point in the history of Hawaii, each island still had several chiefs and there was no single ruler that controlled all the islands.  Then, a young chief named Kamehameha set out to conquer the other chiefs.  By 1791, he defeated the chief on the Big Island and by 1795 he had conquered and gained control of the islands of Maui, Molokai, Lanai and Oahu.  In 1810 the chief that ruled Kauai finally pledged his loyalty to Kamehameha who finally came to rule as the first King of Hawaii.  Kamehameha ruled Hawaii with complete control and tried to prepare and protect the Hawaiian people for the Europeans that were starting to come to the islands in increasing numbers.  Unfortunately the King could not protect them from disease and the Hawaiian population decreased by 80% from influenza, typhoid fever and measles during this period.

In 1820 the first Christian missionaries arrived and changed the islands forever.  With the end of the Kapu system and their conversion to Christianity, the ancient Hawaiian temples were destroyed and replace with Christian churches.  The missionaries also brought reading and writing to Hawaii, which was important because prior to this time there was no written language of the Hawaiian people.  In 1840 the Hawaiian Parliament and the Supreme Court were formed and a constitution was written.  By 1843, land was available for purchase and for the first time foreigners could own land on Hawaiian Islands.

Hawaiian coat of arms 1    Iolani Palace

By this time in the history of Hawaii, there had been a succession of Kings who lived in their own houses during their reigns until finally in 1882 Iolani Palace was built on Oahu and it became the official residence of the Hawaiian monarchy.  King Kalakaua was the first monarch to live in the palace.  During the past decades, Hawaii had experienced a great agricultural boom which brought many immigrants from Japan, China and the Philippines to work in the sugarcane and pineapple fields which were under the control of American entrepreneurs; also the U.S. military became a presence in the region during this same period.  Unfortunately, this foreign influence greatly dominated the islands and the King sadly became aware that the Hawaiian native culture was starting to be lost and he set a course to preserve the Hawaiian traditions and customs.  When he died in 1891 his sister became Queen Lilliuokalani.  During her brief reign she attempted to institute a new Hawaiian constitution that would strengthen the Hawaiian monarchy and reduce the oppression of native Hawaiian people, the conflict between royalty and the native Hawaiian and the American businessman only continued to grow.  Finally, in order to protect their businesses, the American entrepreneurs seized control of the islands with the aid of the U.S. military.  In 1893 Queen Liliuokalani was overthrown, imprisoned and forced to sign a document relinquishing her power.  She underwent a public trail and was found guilty, fined and sentenced to 5 years of hard labor.  This sentence was later changed to house arrest in the Iolani Palace where she was forced to live in only one of the rooms, she served an additional year under house arrest but the remaining condition was that she was forbidden from ever leaving the island of Oahu.

King Kalakaua Queen Liliuokalani

At this period in the history of Hawaii, the Republic of Hawaii was formed and eventually in 1898 the U.S. government claimed the Hawaiian Islands as a U.S. territory.  Then sixty years later in 1958 the voters of Hawaii approved statehood and on August 21, 1959 Hawaii officially became the 50th state of the United States.

Jones Hawaii 2008

Travel recommendations for Hawaii

Hawaii’s diverse natural scenery of sandy beaches and clear ocean waters, tropical plants and beautiful flowers, active volcanoes and warm climate that is perfect for outdoor sports such as surfing and scuba diving or snorkeling, all these things make Hawaii a wonderful vacation destination.  We have been fortunate to have visited Oahu and the “Big Island” of Hawaii in October 2008, my husband had visited several of the islands before but this was the first trip for both my daughter and I to Hawaii.

Listed are the different islands and suggested sites to visit – (asterisk * designates a site that we visited and personally recommend)

Hawaii (the Big Island)

This island is the largest of the six islands with a total area of 4,028 miles.  That is the current estimated land mass because with three active volcanoes on the island it is continuing to grow in size.  The highest point on the island is the dormant volcano Mauna Kea at 13,796 feet.  The largest cities on the island are Hilo and Kona.

2008 - Hawaii Volcanoes National ParkSuggested places to visit are:

  • Hawaii Volcanoes National Park *
  • Mauna Kea Summit and Observatory
  • Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden*
  • Kealakekua Bay with the Captain Cook Monument.
  • Akaka Falls State Park*
  • Kaloko-Honokohau National Historial Park
  • Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park*

Maui

Maui is the second largest island with a total area of 727 miles; the highest point is Haleakala at 10,023 feet.  The largest town is Wailuku; other cities are Lahaina and Hana.  Maui is known for the beaches and lowlands with several mountain ranges divided by spectacular valleys.

Pools-of-OheoSuggested places to visit are:

  • Haleakala National Park *
  • Iao Valley State Park
  • Kaanapali Beach
  • Makena Beach State Park
  • Pools of Oheo *

Oahu

Oahu is the third largest island with a total area of 597 miles but has the largest population of the six islands.  The largest city is Honolulu and it is the state capital of Hawaii and the center of the state’s government and economy.  Pearl Harbor is home to the largest U.S. Naval fleet in the Pacific.  Oahu has two main mountain ranges separated by a valley and coastal plains.  The North Shore of the island is also a preferred tourist destination and it is less congested than Honolulu.  During our stay on Oahu we visited two very popular tourist destinations.  (If you are interested, please check out these two Travel posts:  Pearl Harbor, Hawaii and the Polynesian Cultural Center)

diamond-headSuggested places to visit are:

  • Pearl Harbor *
  • Iolani Palace State Monument *
  • Bishop Museum *
  • Diamond Head State Monument
  • Waimea Valley *
  • Polynesian Cultural Center *
  • Dole Plantation Center *

Kauai

Kauai is the fourth largest island with a total area of 562 miles and the highest point is Kawaikini at 5,243 feet.  It is the oldest of the six main islands as it is located the farthest from the hotspot that formed the islands.  Kauai has several mountain ranges, steep cliffs and rugged coastlines and it is known as the Garden Island due it the lush landscape.  Cities on the island include Hanalei, Hanapepe.

Waimea-CanyonSuggested places to visit are:

  • Napali Coast
  • Waimea Canyon *
  • Poipu Beach Park
  • Wailua Falls * and Opaekaa Falls
  • Spouting Horn
  • Kilauea Lighthouse

Molokai

The island of Molokai covers 260 square miles and the highest point is Kamakou at 4,961 feet.  There are two mountain ranges, the East Molakai and the West Molokai, on the island and these are extinct volcanoes.  Molokai is also known for their beautiful coral reefs.  The major city is Kaunakakai.

kapuaiwa_coconut_groveSuggested places to visit are:

  • Kalaupapa National Historical Park
  • Paphaku Beach
  • Halwa Valley
  • Hawaiian Fishponds of Molokai
  • Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove

Lanai

The island of Lanai covers 140 square miles and the only town on the island is Lanai City.  Lanai is known as the Pineapple Island because in the past the island was completely covered by a pineapple plantation but today the island is mainly undeveloped and many of the roads are unpaved.

Puu PeheSuggested places to visit are:

  • Hulopoe Bay
  • Kaiolohia (Shipwreck Beach)
  • Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods)
  • Munro Trail
  • Puu Pehe (Sweetheart Rock)

Travel – Clinton Presidential Library in Little Rock, AR

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Today is President William Jefferson Clinton’s birthday, he was born on August 19, 1946, and I thought it was a good time to share our trip to the Clinton Presidential Library and Museum located in Little Rock, Arkansas.  On our annual road trip back from California, we took the southern route across the United States and made stops at the Grand Canyon, Tucson, Little Rock and Memphis before heading north to go home.  When traveling across the country we always love to stop at the presidential libraries along the way and we have been to several of them – it doesn’t matter if the president was a democrat or republican – it is always a little history lesson!!  We loved Little Rock and the people were extremely friendly and very proud of this revitalized area of Little Rock.  (If you are interested, please check the January 2013 Travel post on Elvis Presley’s Graceland – Memphis, TN from the same road trip!)

The William J. Clinton Presidential Center is located in Little Rock near the Arkansas River and is home to the Clinton Presidential Library and Museum, the Little Rock offices of the Clinton Foundation and the University of Arkansas Clinton School Of Public Service.  When the Center opened in 2004, it brought more than $2.5 billion in economic development and renovations to the area located hear the historic River Market district.  The Presidential Library has the largest archival collection of any American President and features 20,000 square feet of museum exhibit space including a recreation of the White House Cabinet Room and a full scale replica of the Oval Office.  In speaking with the docent at the Library he told us that President Clinton visits the facility frequently when he is in Little Rock, in fact we missed seeing him there by only a few days!

After entering the Library there is usually a small revolving exhibit on the ground floor, when we visited it had several of Elvis Presley’s cars which was great because our next stop on our trip after Little Rock was Graceland – Memphis, TN.  On the ground floor there is a permanent exhibit of the Presidential limousine used during the Clinton Administration.

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Before proceeding to the second floor we purchased audio guides for each member in our group for a small fee, $3.  The audio tour is narrated by President Clinton and there are numbered stations throughout the Library and visitors simply enter the corresponding number to hear the information regarding a specific exhibit.  Also available for visitors are free one-hour “An American Presidency” tours offered three times a day with a paid admission, no reservations are required and check at the ticket counter for more information regarding the specific times.  Volunteers are also stationed throughout the Library to answer any questions.  While we were at the Special Services counter we also picked up the “Ideas Matter Youth Scavenger Hunt” which is a special self-guided children’s tour where they learn about the Library and search for areas marked by gold eagle coins, it was a fun activity for our 12 year old daughter and keep her busy during our visit.

In a small theater on the second floor there is an orientation film about President Clinton’s years in office.  Behind the theater is a large exhibit hall which has different changing exhibits, check ahead on the Library’s website to see what will be on exhibit at the time of your visit.  In front of the theater is an area with a recreation of the White House Cabinet Room.  This room in the West Wing of White House has been used since 1902 as the place where the President, Vice-President, the various cabinet secretaries and other officials gather to make the choices that affect our country’s future.  In a position of honor at the center of the table is the tallest chair, with a brass plaque marked “Mr. President”.  (Of course everyone has to sit in the President’s chair!)  On the walls surrounding the room, President Clinton had selected portraits of Thomas Jefferson, Abraham Lincoln and Theodore Roosevelt and, his personal favorite, George Washington.

Cabinet Room024   DSCF5858 (2)

My favorite section of the Library was the 110 foot freestanding interactive timeline panels, starting from 1993 to 2001 representing the years of the Clinton administration.  Each individual year panel gives information regarding the events of that particular year ranging from natural disaster, scientific breakthroughs and military conflicts as well as events regarding sports to music.  Also in this section are 13 “policy alcoves” which explain specific policies of the Clinton administration. Architecturally and visually this area of the Library is very well-done and extremely informative.

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On the third floor of the Library is a section with exhibits that explain the Clinton’s life in the White House and displays concerning special state events and holiday celebrations throughout the years.  Also included in this section are several rotating exhibits displaying state gifts received during the Presidential years and personal memorabilia of the Clinton family.

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The highlight of the third floor is the full-sized replica of Clinton’s Oval Office; this room is decorated with the furnishings and decorations that were used during the years of his administration.  The original Oval Office in the White House was created in 1909 when President Taft built the West Wing.  In 1934 President Franklin Roosevelt had the room moved to its present location in the southwest corner of the West Wing.  My favorite piece of furniture in the room is the Resolute desk which is a 19th century desk used by many past presidents.  Originally it was a gift from Queen Victoria given to President Rutherford Hayes in 1880 and is built from the timbers of the British Arctic Explorations ship the “Resolute”.  Since them many presidents have used the desk at various locations in the White House and President Franklin Roosevelt added a small door built to prevent people from seeing his wheelchair.  It was first brought to the Oval Office in 1961 for President Kennedy and after his assassination it was used in a traveling exhibition to raise funds for the Kennedy Presidential Library and then put on display at the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, D.C.  President Jimmy Carter brought the desk back to the Oval Office where every president has used it since then.  (My memory of the Resolute desk is the iconic photo of little John-John Kennedy peeking out underneath from the door of the desk.  Of course, if you have see the 2007 movie “National Treasures 2 – Book of Secrets, you will remember the famous scene where Nicolas Gage searching for a hidden treasure in the desk!)

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KENNEDY   resolute-desk-nic-cage

When plans where first being discussed for the Clinton Presidential Library the first choice was to build it in Little Rock, Arkansas.  The building’s architects took inspiration from the six bridges over the Arkansas River; expanded on the Clinton administration “a bridge to the future” theme used in the 2000 millennium celebration and built the bridge-like building concept that fits in beautifully with the scenic river view at the site.  Clinton also wanted the building to be an example of the green building design concept of sustainable construction and operation. The Clinton Presidential Center has received the Platinum LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Certification and presently is the only federally maintained facility to receive this prestigious recognition.

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Travel – Neuschwanstein Castle

Neuschwanstein Castle

My son and I were fortunate to see Neuschwanstein Castle when we were on a trip to Germany in 1998.  King Ludwig’s Neuschwanstein is a 19th century fairytale castle located on the hill above the small village of Hohenschwangau, near Fussen in southern Germany.  We were on a bus tour of this beautiful region known as Bavaria that originated from Munich.  The tour took us first to Linderhof, one of King Ludwig’s smaller palaces, then on to a brief shopping visit to Oberammergau which is famous for their woodcraving, beautifully painted houses and the Passion Play.  The final stop and the highlight of the tour was Neuschwanstein Castle and it was an enchanting experience and very exciting for this Disney fan to see the actual castle that was the inspiration for Disneyland’s Sleeping Beauty Castle in Anaheim, CA.

A Brief Histoy of Neuschwanstein Castle

King Ludwig IIIn the Middle Ages there were three castles near the village of Hohenschwangau, which is located at 2,620 feet elevation near the border of Germany and Austria.  Schwanstein Castle was located nearest the village and on the hill overlooking were twin castles known as Vorderhohenschwangau Castle and Hinterhohenschwangau Castle.  Over the centuries all three castle fell into ruins.  Then, in 1832 King Maximilian II began to build a new castle known as Hohenschwangau Castle near the ruins of the Schwanstein Castle.  By 1837 the palace was completed and became the summer residence of the King and his family.  In 1864 King Maximillian died and his eldest son became King Ludwig II.  Ludwig was only 19 years old when he became king of Bavaria and he was a very shy and introverted man who spent his childhood exploring this area of southern Germany.

Several years later, Ludwig wanted to build a secluded personal refuge and he decided on the area where the twin castles once stood.  The building design was drafted by the stage designer Christian Jank and the King insisted on control over all aspects of the palace and is largely regarded as his own creation rather that the architects involved.  The foundation stone for Neuschwanstein Castle was laid in 1869.  Over 200 craftsmen were employed with additional 100 workers at different times in order to meet the King’s specific deadlines for the construction of the palace.  The materials used for the construction of the palace were approximately white limestone for the exterior walls, sandstone for the portals and Salzburg marble for the arched window frames and columns.  Transportation of these materials was difficult due to the site located on the steep hill, cranes and scaffolds were also needed during the construction.  In 1884, the King moved into the still unfinished palace to oversee the completion of the construction and the final interior details.  Ludwig only spent six months at his beloved Neuschwanstein before he died under mysterious circumstances in the water of Lake Stanberg new Berg Castle in 1886 at the age of 40 years old.

The exterior of Neuschwanstein Castle is designed in the Romanesque style of architecture and the building has numerous towers, turrets, gables and balconies.  Built on the hill above the village of Hohenschwangau with the Pollat Gorge to the south and the foothills of the Alpine mountains and lakes to the north, the palace’s setting offers many picturesque views in all directions.  Neuschwanstein was intended to be King Ludwig’s private residence and the interior design is based on the German legend of Lohengrin or the Swan Knight as immortalized in the operas of Richard Wagner and his music was very inspirational in the design of the palace.

At the time of Ludwig’s death, only 14 finished rooms of the palace were completed and furnished.  The original 65,000 square feet floor plan was designed with more than 200 rooms with the majority of those rooms intended as guest and servant accommodations.  The largest room of the palace is the Hall of Singer’s which is 89 feet by 33 feet and is located in the east wing of the palace.  The Hall was designed with a stage at the far end but was never intended for court entertainment of the reclusive King.  No performance was held in the room until 1933 when there was a concert performed to commemorating the 50th anniversary of Richard Wagner’s death, he never lived to Neuschwanstein.

Neuschwanstein Castle - Hall of Singer's

The Throne Room measures 66 feet by 39 feet with a 43 feet high ceiling takes up the space of the third and fourth floors and is located in the west wing of the palace.  At the request of King Ludwig, this Byzantine style room is designed to incorporate the symbols of unrestricted sovereign power and the divine right of kings.  Hanging overhead is a chandelier in the shape of a Byzantine crown and at the far end of the room is a dais but is without a throne since King Ludwig’s throne was not finished at the time of his death.  The walls surrounding the dais have paintings of Jesus and the twelve apostles and also portraits of six canonized kings: Saint Louis of France, Saint Stephen of Hungry, Saint Edward the Confessor of England, Saint Wenceslaus of Bohemia, Saint Olaf of Norway and Saint Henry the Holy Roman Emperor.

Neuschwanstein Castle - Throne Room

King Ludwig’s bedroom suite is in contrast to the other rooms in the palace and is decorated in a Neo-Gothic style.  It took 14 woodcarvers 41/2 years to complete this room; the bed is crowned with the intricate woodcarvings and covered with embroidered draperies.  The wall painting is “Tristian and Isolde” a story from one of Wagner’s operas.  The adjacent dressing room is completely paneling in oak and the painted trellis on the ceiling gives the impression that the room is open to the sky.

Neuschwanstein Castle - King Ludwig's Bedroom

The Living Room is completely inspired by the legend of the Swan Knight, Lohengrin, which had significant meaning and held great importance to Ludwig.  In this room there is a mural called “The Miracle of the Grail”, the Grail King was a medieval legend of a pauper that had risen to become King because of his pure soul and he achieved this success by overcoming sin and winning his inner battles.  Ludwig’s obsession with the Grail King is very understandable when looking at his diaries indicate that he also suffered with deep inner turmoil in repressing his homosexuality.  Another mural in the room is called “The Arrival of Lohengrin in Antwerp” is important given that the young prince Ludwig was so overwhelmed by Wagner’s opera Lohengrin that he considered the opera a form of enlightenment.  Ludwig was a recluse and completely identified himself with the Swan Knight whose tragic downfall was his overwhelming loneliness that he frequently dressed as the character.  Neuschwanstein means “New Swan Stone” and King Ludwig II is still thought of today as the “Swan King”.

Travel tips for visiting Neuschwanstein Castle

  • Before ascending the hill, purchase castle tour tickets at the ticket center in Hohenschwangau or tour tickets are also available for a small additional reservation fee on the Neuschwanstein website, www.neuschwanstein.de

TRAVEL NOTE:  The tour ticket is valid only for a specific date and time and be advised that it takes awhile to reach the castle at the top of the hill.  If you have purchased tickets online, please arrive at least 1½ hours before your reserved time to allow for travel up to the castle entrance.

  • There are various options to get to the top of the hill and the castle entrance.  The price for the bus and the horse-carriage ride will variety from one fee for the uphill trip and another fee for the downhill trip.   (When we visited Neuschwanstein, we took the bus to the top of the hill to the castle entrance and then after the castle tour we walked back down to the village).

Walk:  A strenuous hike from the village at the bottom on the hill up to the castle at the top can takes about 45 minutes to an hour.  A hike down the hill after the tour is a great way to see the beautiful views across the way to Hohenschwangau Castle with the village down below and also Alpsee Schansee, a picturesque lake located on the other side of the castle.

Bus:  There is fee for the bus and will depart from in front of the Schlosshotel in the village.  Visitors will ride up the hill to a stop near Jugend lookout and Marienbrucke.  From the bus stop there is still a strenuous and steep path which will take visitors about 15 minutes to reach the castle entrance.

TRAVEL TIP: Be sure to take a moment to look at the lovely view of Neuschwanstein and the Pollat Gorge before walking to the castle entrance.  The location at the Maienbrucke (or Mary’s Bridge) is a wonderful vantage point for pictures of Nesuchwanstein and the waterfall below the bridge.

Horse-drawn carriage:  There is a fee for the carriage ride and will depart from in front Hotel Muller in the village, then from the carriage stop it is a shorter walk to the castle entrance.  (If you can afford this mode of transportation is can be a wonderful way to travel up the hill to the castle)

  • Guided tours of the interior of the castle take about 35 minutes and are held in German and English, other languages are available as audio guides.

TRAVEL NOTE:  The castle tour can be strenuous for visitors, please be advised the tour will covers 5 floors of the castle, 165 stair steps upstairs and 181 stair steps downstairs.  Call ahead to inquire about special arrangements made for the disabled persons using a wheelchair or walker.

  • Neuschwanstein has more than 1 million visitors every year and in the busy summer months of July, August and September there can be 6,000 visitors per day.  Arrive early in the day to purchase castle tour tickets at the ticket center in Hohenschwangau or pick up pre-arranged tour tickets at the will call window.
  • Photography is not allowed inside the castle.

For more information regarding times, prices, etc check out the Neuschwanstein website, www.neuschwanstein.de 

Neuschwanstein Castle and the Disney connection

When Walt started the construction of the Disneyland theme park in Anaheim, CA he wanted something at the end of Main Street to draw his guests into the park.  At the time the Disney animated film “Sleeping Beauty” was about to be released and Walt thought a fairytale castle would be the perfect solution.  The castle they built as the entrance to Fantasyland is called the Sleeping Beauty Castle and it was one of the first buildings to be completed for the new theme park that opened July 17, 1955.

Sleeping Beauty Castle has been noted to be a composite of the architecture of French and Bavarian castles which were originally built during the Middle Ages.  But in actuality the inspiration for the Disneyland castle is a place Walt Disney and his wife Lillian visited many years before on a European vacation, Neuschswanstein Castle in Germany.  The resemblance between the two castles is uncanny and the architectural features are undeniable.

Disneyland's Sleeping Beauty's Castle - 1995