Travel – Krakow, Poland

Back in 1998, we were very fortunate to have visited the wonderful city of Krakow, Poland.  My maternal grandparents emigrated from a small town located in southern Poland to the United States in the early 1900s.  My mother was always been very proud of her Polish heritage.  In researching my family history I have become fascinated with the great pride and resilience of the Polish people through the difficult years of both World Wars and how they held onto their religious beliefs and national customs even through years of political and social oppression.  When we were visiting Germany a few years ago we decided to take a short trip to Poland specifically to see Krakow and to find the small village where my grandparents had lived before coming to America.  I am so grateful I had this wonderful opportunity to visit the city of Krakow.

Krakow is located in the southern part of Poland and the city is located on the Vistula River near the Carpathian Mountains.  Krakow is the second largest city after Warsaw and is one of the leading cities of Polish cultural and artistic life as well as an academic center of higher education and the city is also one of Poland’s most important economic centers.  Over the centuries Krakow has seen many political and social changes and the city has been the capital of Poland several times under different governments.

This ancient “walled city” is one of the oldest cities in Poland.  There is an old legend about the origin of the city and the fierce Dragon of Wawel Hill.  According to Polish folklore, the Wawel Dragon lived in a cave at the foot of the hill near the bank of the Vistula River.  The tale says that the evil dragon caused destruction and killed many farmers and the livestock in the nearby area.  Eventually the villagers would one by one sacrifice the young girls of the village to appease the dragon’s ferocious appetite until only the King’s daughter remained.  The King promised that if his daughter’s life was spared and the dragon was killed the victor would win her hand in marriage.  The King’s brave and noble knights were sent out to kill the dragon but they all meet a fiery death.  Then one day a humble cobbler’s apprentice rose to the challenge and he set out a poisoned lamb for the dragon to eat.  The dragon became very thirsty and drank all the water in the nearby river until he ultimately died.  The apprentice married the King’s daughter and … they lived happily ever after!

In another version of the story, the dragon was slain by a Polish Prince named Krakus who later became King and founded the city of Krakow, it is said that Wawel Castle was built on the site of the fabled dragon’s den.  In 1970 a metal sculpture of the Wawel Dragon was placed in front of the legendary dragon’s den.  The dragon is depicted as having seven heads and a natural gas nozzle was cleverly set into the mouth of the sculpture and goes off intermittently giving the illusion that the dragon is actually breathing fire.

The interesting sites in Krakow

Florian Gate

As visitors approach the area near the center of Krakow they will see a large stone gateway that was one of eight gates that were built in the 1300s as part of the defensive walls that were built for the city’s protection from invading forces.  The adjoining wall and the two towers were also part of the original design but the upper section of the gate with the beautiful plaque of St. Florian were added at a later time.

To the north of the gate is the structure known as the Barbican that was built in 1498.  A barbican is a fortified medieval fortress used as an outer defense for a city or castle which is usually connected to the city walls.  This one is circular in dsiign and made of brick with walls that are almost a foot thick and at one time it was connected to the Florian Gate by a narrow passage that ran across a moat.  The Krakow Barbican is one of very few surviving structures of this kind of medieval fortress in Europe.

Wawel Castle

Since Krakow was the political and cultural center of Poland over the centuries, ther has been a Royal residence on the site near the Vistula River.  In the 11th Century, originally a smaller residence for the King had been built at this location but later it was redesigned into a larger Gothic castle by King Kazimierz III which was later burned down in 1429.  The current castle was designed by Italian architects into an impressive three-story tall structure with an enclosed courtyard.

Over the centuries of political upheaval within Poland, the castle was repeatedly ransacked and vandalized by the Swedish and Prussian armies.  Then during the Austrian occupation there were plans to turn the Wawel Castle into a citadel with army barracks with parade grounds and an massive brick wall was erected to incorporate the enter hill area surrounding the castle.

After World War I, restoration work began on Wawel Castle to repair centuries worth of damage to the original structure but was interrupted by the start of World War II when all work stopped.  Eventually after the war, the restoration work resumed and today the castle has been fully restored on both the exterior and interior.

Wawel Castle gate 10    Wawel Castle 11

Travel Note:  Currently Wawel Castle is a museum which offers a variety of tours that explore the five different sections of the castle.  Limited English-speaking tours are offered daily and sell out quickly so it is a good idea to arrive early to purchase tickets or phone ahead for reservations.  For more information, check out the website www.wawel.krakow.pl and be sure to click on the English icon at the top of the page for a translation from Polish to English.

Located nearby Wawel Casle and within walking distance are several more interesting sites.

The Dragon’s Den

Located on the west side of Wawel Hill is the Dragon’s Den.  As I mention previously, there is an old Polish folktale about the Wawel Dragon and this is supposedly the location of the den of the dragon.  The entrance to the Dragon’s Den is located at the base of the Thieves’ Tower of Wawel Castle and the cave is 885 feet long but currently only 265 feet are opened to the public.

The first area of the cave was filled with water until the 19th century and a narrow passage leads to the second and largest area of the cave.  During the 17th and 18th centuries this section of the cave was used for storage for a tavern that was once located near the entrance by the Vistula River.  The last part of the cave opened to visitors is where the main room of the tavern was located.  As quest exit onto Vistula Blvd there is a metal sculpture of the Wawel Dragon created by Bronislw Chromy in 1972.

Dragon's Cave under Wawel Castle    Wawel dragon sculpture 10

Wawel Cathedral

The official name of the Roman Catholic Church located on Wawel Hill is the Royal Basilica of Saints Stanislaus and Wenceslaus, but it is also known as the Wawel Cathedral.  It was the church was built over 900 years ago and was traditionally the location for the coronation of the Polish monarchs.  Since the 14th century, Wawel Cathedral is the burial site for the Polish monarchs and over time additional several burial chapels have been added to honor individual rulers.  National heroes and military generals have also been buried in the crypt beneath the church.  When entering the Cathedral from the west entrance through the large iron door, hanging on the left suspended from a chain are large prehistoric animal bones that were found on the site during the excavation process.  It is said that the bones hold magical powers and as long as they are there the cathedral will remain.

Wawel Cathedral    West entrance to Wawel Cathedral
 

Tomb of King Casmir III    Sarcophagus of St. Stanislaus

In more current history, it had a very important role in the life of Pope John Paul II.  In 1946, known then as Karol Wojtyla, he was ordained as a priest and later in 1958 he was ordained as Krakow’s auxillary bishop.  When the much beloved Pope John Paul II died in 2005, the people of Poland were hoping that the old custom of burying his heart in his homeland would take place in the Wawel Cathedral but instead he is buried in the traditional papal burial site in a crypt under St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, Italy.

We thoroughly enjoyed our trip to southern Poland and Krakow, but unfortunately our visit was very short.  We are definitely planning a return trip in a few years!!

Travel – Valley Forge National Historical Park, PA

Valley Forge sign

When traveling during our summer vacations or road trips taken throughout the year we always like to stop at historical sites or interesting museums to learn about our country’s history.  Valley Forge was one of those places on our list of things to see since it was such an important event in the history of the United States during the American Revolutionary War.  While on a trip to Philadelphia, Pennsylvania in 2009, we also took a short 40 minute drive to Valley Forge which is located just 25 miles from downtown Philadelphia.  (For more information on our trip and travel suggestions, please check out the link to the post Philadelphia, PA).

Valley Forge National Historical Park was the site of the 1777-78 winter encampment of the Continental Army which was under the command of General George Washington.  Some historians say that despite the harsh weather, limited food supplies and difficult living conditions, the Continental Army came through the severe winter with an unwavering spirit of patriotism and an increased determination to win our country’s fight for independence against the British in the Revolutionary War.

George Washington at Valley Forge

While walking around the picturesque grounds of the Valley Forge National Historical Park in the summer of 2009 it was hard to visualize and fully understand exactly what Washington’s Army went through so our first stop after arriving was the visitor center.  It is always a good idea when visiting any of our National Parks to stop at the information counter to pick up a park map and brochures and take the time to speak with a ranger for suggestions on places to visit and guided or driving tours that are available within the park.  The Valley Forge Visitor Center also has a small museum with several exhibits pertaining to the Continental Army winter encampment as well as the Revolutionary War and the culture and natural history of Valley Forge.  Before leaving the Valley Forge Visitor Center, be sure to get your National Park Passport book stamped and if you have children in your group pick up a Junior Ranger worksheet for them to earn their Junior Ranger badge at the end of your visit!

Visitor Center at Valley Forge

Below is a list of several sites to see in the Valley Forge National Historical Park –

  • Washington’s headquarters – This 18thcentury stone building was used as the headquarters for General George Washington during the six months of the winter encampment of the Continental Army.  The exterior and interior of the building have been fully restored and the interior is furnished with period pieces, artifacts and exhibit items pertaining to the use of the building by Washington and his staff.

DSCF9534

  • Soldier’s cabins – Reconstructed soldier cabins are located in several areas of the Valley Forge National Historical Park.  About two thousand cabins within the encampment were laid out in parallel rows.  In general, the cabins measured approximately 14 feet by 16 feet with a door situated on the south side to allow the sun to heat the cabin during the day.  Roofs were constructed in a variety of materials but oak shingles proved to be the best for insulation.  Wooden fireplaces were lined with 18 inches of clay to prevent a fire hazard.  The cabins housed either twelve enlisted men, six junior officers, three staff officers or one general.

Log housing for the troops 1

officer's quarters interior left    officer's quarters interior right
 

troops  quarter's interior left    troops  quarter's interior right

  • Valley Forge Train Station – The train station is located on a hilltop overlooking the Schuylkill River and construction was completed in 1913 for use by the Reading Railroad, at that time passenger rail excursions were popular with the general public.  Currently the train station is the site where guided-ranger tours of the nearby Washington Headquarters start and within the building there are several exhibits.

Valley Forge Train Station

  • Valley Forge Memorial Arch – The Arch was erected in 1910 and the inscription on the front of the Arch reads, “To the officers and soldiers of the Continental Army December 19, 1777 to June 19, 1778”.  Inside the Arch are both the front and the back of the Great Seal of the United States.  There are many other inscriptions on the memorial, such as a list the names of the Generals that fought in the Revolutionary War and on the back of the memorial is a quote from George Washington which reads, “Naked and starving as they are, we cannot enough admire incomparable patience and fidelity of the soldiery”.

Memorial Arch 1

  • Baron Friedrich von Steuben statue – Within the Valley Forge National Historical Park there are many other monuments and statues.  One important statue is dedicated to the former Prussian Army Officer named Baron Steuben.  He has been credited with training the Continental Army during their winter encampment at Valley Forge into a more efficient military force.   

Stuben statue

The history of Valley Forge

The original story of Valley Forge was a very careful constructed tale told after the Revolutionary War to teach the American people about perseverance.  It recalled the suffering of the Continental Army during their winter encampment from 1777 to 1778.  With harsh weather and miserable conditions caused by inadequate clothing and limited food supplies, the soldiers were transformed during that six month period and they became strong in patriotic spirit and able to fight with renewed vigor for the cause of liberty and independence.

Traditionally as the winter months came, the normal course of military action at the time called for battles and military maneuvers to stop and the armies would withdraw into winter encampments.  In the third year of the American Revolutionary War, the British had recently captured Philadelphia and Washington decided to set up camp in Valley Forge which was a location close enough to Philadelphia to maintain pressure on the enemy yet far enough away to prevent any surprise attacks from the British troops.

As Washington’s Continental Army entered Valley Forge in mid-December of 1777 they found a vast area cleared for spring crop plantings and large open spaces used for animal pastures with nearby woods that would provide building materials for housing and timber for heating purposes during the upcoming winter months.  Washington ordered log cabins to be built to house the troops and officers from the cold weather and trenches and earthen fortifications were built for a line of defense against the British.

It has always been depicted that the Continental Army suffered unusually harsh weather conditions, but according to the records at the time the temperatures were on the average 33 degrees during that first month of the winter encampment, December 1777 to January 1778.  Supplies to the troops were also very limited because the supply wagons were delayed due to muddy roads and rising rivers that were difficult to cross due to heavy rainfall.  Despite the delays, the soldiers looked to alternative resources and began foraging for food within the area and making clothing from rags to keep them warm during the winter months while many of the soldiers lacked shoes because they were destroyed during long marches and blankets were scarce.  Eventually Washington commissioned the Continental Congress to fund the war effort and by February 1778 food, clothing and military supplies started to arrive in Valley Forge.  Sadly, most of the casualties and deaths of the soldiers was not from cold or starvation but from diseases such as influenza, typhoid and dysentery during the warmer months of March, April and May 1778.

By the time former Prussian Army Officer Baron Friedrich von Steuben arrived in the encampment in February 1778 the Continental Army was ready to become a more “professional” military force.  During the following months Steuben directly trained the army to become a more efficient military unit with improved weapon skills and marching precision.  As a result by June 1778 the Continental Army had a new confidence that would sustain them in their fight for independence from the British.

Travel – Walt Disney’s Marceline, MO

I grew up as a Disney child, our family has been going to Disneyland since it opened in 1955, but of course that was a few years before I was born!  Over the years I have become fascinated by the man that made such wonderful animated films and television programs, I have read many books about both Walt Disney’s personal and professional life.  The first book I read was the Bob Thomas book, “Walt Disney: An American Original”.  The book covers the life of Walt from his birth in Chicago, IL to his early childhood in Marceline, MO and then follows him to Kansas City as he starts the Laugh-O-Gram Company and then California as he created the Walt Disney Company and later built Disneyland.  (I highly recommend the book!)  Little did I know that many years later I would move to the Midwest and be able to visit the small town of Marceline and some say his inspiration for Disneyland’s Main Street.  So, in honor of Walt’s birthday (Born: December 5, 1901 Died: December 15, 1966) I would like to share our October 2012 visit to Marceline, MO.

Marceline is a small town located halfway between St. Joseph and Hannibal, Missouri.  In 1887 the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway began construction on a railroad station and main terminal because of the town’s excellent location between Kansas City and Chicago.  The town quickly grew and by 1906 when the Disney family moved from Chicago, IL to Marceline the population was 2500.

Walt and RuthElias and Flora Disney along with their five children (Herbert age 17, Raymond age 15, Roy age 12, Walt age 4 and Ruth age 2) moved into a farm just outside of town.  Elias purchased the small one-story house and 45 acres of land.  The farm had 5 acres of apple, plum and peach orchards and they grew corn, sorghum and wheat.  They also raised hogs, chickens, dairy cows and horses. While Elias and the older boys would work on the farm and in the fields and Flora did household chores.  Walt and Ruth would sell apples or Flora’s homemade butter in town and during the spring or summer they would swim or fish in the Yellow Creek located nearby.

Even though the Disney family only lived there four years, Marceline left a lasting impression on Walt and he had wonderful memories of his early childhood years.  Walt and his sister Ruth spent many happy hours playing around the farm and Walt would sit under a tree making up stories and dreaming of his future.  Sometimes Walt would walk into town and visit the railroad station; he was fascinated by the trains that came through Marceline on a regular schedule.  Eventually, Walt’s father sold the farm and the family moved to Kansas City, Missouri in 1910.  It is said that Marceline is “where Walt Found the Magic”.

Many years later after Walt and his brother Roy built the successful Walt Disney Company and Walt never forgot his beloved Marceline … and it appears Marceline never forgot Walt.  In 1956, Walt received an invitation from the city stating that they were naming the recreation center and new swimming pool after him.  Walt accepted the invitation and he, Roy and their wives traveled to Missouri for the dedication ceremony.  During their time in Marceline, Walt and Roy visited the old family farm, they also visited Main Street and went to the old Santa Fe train depot and the nearby E.P. Ripley Park.  They also went to Walt’s old school, Park School, and Walt sat at his old desk and found the W.D. that he had carved into the top.  Of course there were many photo opportunities during the visit but the best part was the time Walt and Roy had to reminisce about all their childhood memories.  Walt later returned to Marceline in 1960 when the old school was rebuilt and renamed the Walt Disney Elementary School.

Marceline train station - Walt and Roy    The Dreaming Tree with Walt and Roy

Today, Marceline continues as an agricultural center, industrial community and also has one of the largest publishing companies in the Midwest.  The railroad trains no longer stops in Marceline, although the trains still travel through the town quite frequently.

 Listed below are some of the current Disney sites to see in Marceline:

 Walt Disney Hometown Museum

 Walt Disney Hometown Museum

An excellent place to start a visit to Marceline is the Walt Disney Hometown Museum located in the old Santa Fe train depot, which is fittingly the place where Walt and his family first arrived in Marceline back in 1906.  The Museum has a wonderful and unique collection of Disney family memorabilia which were donated by Ruth Disney Beecher, Walt’s sister.  Some interesting items in the museum collection include the following: Walt’s old school desk which visitors can see his carved initials, personal Disney family letters, a phonographic recording from Walt’s parent’s 50th wedding anniversary, family photographs including many from Walt and Roy’s visit in 1956, a framed piece of Walt’s Carolwood Pacific Railroad track from his Holmby Hills estate and an actual Midget Autopia car from the Disneyland ride that was donated in 1966 by Walt and Roy for Walt Disney Park in Marceline.

Walt's school desk    Walt's school desk - carved initials

Travel Note: Take the time to walk through the museum and look at the displays and read the Disney family letters which are displayed in chronological order.  Sadly one of the letters written by Walt’s mother, Flora, to Ruth on November 7, 1938 references the new house in California that Walt and Roy bought for their parents.  In the letter she complains about the fumes coming from the furnace, sadly a few days after writing the letter Flora was overcome by the fumes and died.

We enjoyed the museum but what made our visit so special was the volunteer that was our tour guide, Inez.  When Walt and Roy visited Marceline in 1956 they stayed at the home of Rush and Inez Johnson instead of the local hotel because it was the only home in town with air conditioning for the comfort of the Disney family.  Walt and his wife, Lillian, stayed in the room of the Johnson’s 7 year old daughter Kaye.  Kaye and her husband now own the old Disney home in Marceline and Kaye also runs the museum.  Inez had so many wonderful stories to tell about Walt during his visit back to Marceline!

For more information, prices and hours of operation, please check the Museum’s website at www.waltdisneymuseum.org

Main Street USA

The town center of Marceline looks like every other small town in the Midwest but what makes it special is that it has been said that this main street in  Walt’s boyhood hometown was the inspiration for Disneyland’s Main Street USA.  Take a look and you will notice the Zurcher building at the corner looks a lot like the Emporium Store in Disneyland … is it a coincidence, I don’t think so!

Marceline - Main Street USA    Marceline - Main Street USA 1

Travel Note: From the museum we would suggest taking a short walk over to the center of Marceline, that way you will see the other Disney sites located a short distance away and you don’t have to move your car.

Uptown Theater

Located in downtown Marceline on Main Street USA is the Uptown Theater which had been in operation from 1930 to 2010.  It was the location for two Disney film premiers, “The Great Locomotive Chase” in 1956 which was held during Walt and Roy’s visit back to Marceline and the other was “The Spirit of Mickey” in 1998.  The Theater is now a Bed & Breakfast which has five themed room, the Walt Disney Suite, the Americana Mickey Room, the Santa Fe Room, the Winnie the Pooh Room and the Toonfest Room.  (Toontest is an annual celebration held in Marceline during the third weekend in September that focuses on the art of animation or “cartooning”.  For more information, please see www.toonfest.net)

Walt Disney Post Office

Walt Disney Post Office

Located just off Main Street USA, near the center of Marceline is the Walt Disney Post Office.  In 1968, the US Postal Department issued a Walt Disney commemorative stamp and it was officially released from this location with the entire Disney family in attendance along with thousands of Disney fans.  In August 2004, the US Post Office was officially renamed the Walt Disney Post Office in honor of Marceline most famous person.

Walt Disney stamp

E.P. Ripley Park

Located across the street from the Walt Disney Post Office is the E.P. Ripley Park which is named in honor of the Santa Fe Railroad’s first president.  In 1898, the railroad donated the land to the city of Marceline.  When Walt was building Disneyland he knew he wanted to incorporate steam trains and named one of them the E.P. Ripley.  Two trains are located at the park, an original Santa Fe 2546 steam locomotive and a red caboose.  (Both of these make a great photo opportunity!)

 EP Ripley Park - Santa Fe steam locomotive    EP Ripley Park - red caboose

Also located in the park is a Gazebo which was built in 1898 and it is where band concerts took place every Sunday.  The Disney family attended many of those concerts during their stay in Marceline.  It has been said that the gazebo was the inspiration in the 1935 Disney cartoon, “The Band Concert” which featured Mickey Mouse and Donald Duck.  (Listen carefully and you can almost hear Mickey leading the band in a rendition of the William Tell Overture just like in the movie!)

Walt Disney Park and Pool

Just south of the center of Marceline is the Walt Disney Park and Pool which was officially dedicated in July 1956 with Walt, Roy and their wives in attendance.  The swimming pool is still in use seasonally by the city of Marceline.  The park was also the site of the Midget Autopia ride from Disneyland was donated by Walt and Roy in 1966.  It is the first attraction that has ever left Disneyland and been operated outside of a Disney-owned themed park.  The track was reconstruction on site and was used by the children of Marceline for many years, parts of the track still remain and a restored Midget Autopia vehicle can be seen at the Walt Disney Hometown Museum.

Walt Disney Elementary School

Walt Disney Elementary School

Travel Note:  When the school is in session please respect it as an educational institution and ask permission before entering the building or taking pictures.

Located a short drive from the center of Marceline is the Walt Disney Elementary School.  There are several Walt Disney Elementary Schools across the country such as the Anaheim and Burbank, CA, Chicago IL locations and the first one to receive the honor was in Tullytown, PA.  The Marceline location was very special to Walt because he attended the school with his sister Ruth.  The original school, known as Park Elementary, was a 2-story brick building and when it fell into disrepair it was replace by the current one-story modern building in 1960.  When Walt received a letter from the school officials in Marceline requesting that the new school be renamed in his honor Walt graciously granted permission and he even bought the school new playground equipment.

In addition, he installed a special 55 foot flag pole that was originally used in the 1960 Winter Olympics held in Squaw Valley, CA of which Walt was the Chairman of Pageantry.  During the games there were 30 flagpoles which flew the 30 flag of the participating nations and all the flagpoles had special plaques signed by Disney; visitors can see this plaque on the flagpole in front of the school.  Walt also gave the school an official Disneyland flag and it is the only place outside of Disneyland to fly this special flag.

Walt Disney Elementary School flagpole    Walt Disney Elementary School flagpole plaque

Located in the lobby of the school, when it is not on display at the Walt Disney Hometown Museum, is the school desk of Walt from the old Park School with the initials WD carved into the wooden top.  At the time of the school’s dedication, Walt commission one of the Walt Disney Company artists, Bob Moore, to create artwork for the school’s entrance, hallway and gymnasium.  The artwork is still in use and features many of the Disney characters and can be seen throughout the building.  (Take a peak inside from the window’s of the school and you can see some of the murals)

Walt Disney Elementary school - interior

The Old Disney Home, Walt’s Barn and the Dreaming Tree

The old Disney family home

Travel Note:  The old Disney home is currently a private residence so please be respectful during your visit.

Located north of town is the old Disney Home and we highly recommend a stop there before ending a visit to Marceline.  Traveling north from the museum, turn left at Broadway.  The house is on the northwest corner and be sure to look carefully for a very small parking area just past the house on the right side of the street.  Hopefully, you will find the path over the foot bridge and through the bushes because at the end are two very special hidden Disney sites.  As you walk along the path there are signs that explain the time period that Walt lived in Marceline.

The first site is the Dreaming Tree which got the name from the time Walt and Ruth spent during the afternoon sitting under the large cottonwood tree daydreaming.  Unfortunately, the tree has not survived over the years in very good condition.  Walt called his time sitting under the tree and observing the nature surrounding him as “belly bounty” and it was to influence him many years later and served as his inspiration for some of the films and television programs that he made.  As you visit the spot, pause and take the time to reflect and imagine Walt all those many years ago.  (Earlier in this post, there is a photo of Walt and Roy at the Dreaming Tree during their visit to Marceline in 1956)

The Dreaming Tree

Continue to follow the path past the Dreaming Tree and you will see several more signs that lead toward the second site, Walt’s Barn.  The barn located on the Disney farm was another place where Walt and his sister Ruth would spend their days playing together.  This replica was built in 2001 and features a distinct pitched roof similar in style to the original barn that stood at this location.  As visitors enter the barn, they will be amazed to see thousands of signatures and messages left by devoted Disney fans.  We added our signatures and also took the time to write a message with our heartfelt thanks to Walt!  (Look for our message under the windowsill overlooking the Marceline water tower)

Walt's Barn    Walt's Barn - interior

That concludes our family visit to Marceline and it was a wonderful and very memorable trip for this Disney fan!

Travel – Blenheim Palace

Since today is Winston Churchill’s birthday, I would like to share a travel report on Blenheim Palace where he was born and the ancestral home of the Churchill family.  My son and I visited this grand country house located in the beautiful English countryside near the village of Woodstock in 1998 while we were visiting relatives in nearby Oxford. Blenheim Palace has the distinction of being the only non-royal house in England to hold the title of palace and it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

A Brief History of Blenheim Palace

Blenheim Palace was originally a gift from Queen Anne to the 1st Duke of Marlborough, John Churchill, for his military victory in 1704 against the French at the Battle of Blenheim. When the Duke returned to England after the battle he had become a national hero.  The Duke was given a site to build his new palace near the village of Woodstock and Parliament voted to a substantial amount of money from its construction.  Previously the site was had a house called the Manor of Woodstock and the estate was owned by the British Crown.  King Henry I used it as a deer park and King Henry II had kept his mistress there.  Before her succession, Queen Elizabeth I was imprisoned there by her half-sister Queen Mary I.  Later, Cromwell’s troop bombarded the estate and the ruins remained until 1705 when the land was cleared in preparation for the building of Blenheim Palace.

During the construction of Blenheim Palace (1705-1722) the process was delayed several times due to personal and political problems between the Crown and the Marlboroughs.  One of the problems was the Duchess, the former Sarah Jennings.  Years before, she had become a friend to the young Princess Anne who later became the Queen.  Upon becoming Queen, the Duchess was made the Mistress of the Robes, one of the highest honors for a lady.  Later the relationship between the Queen and the Duchess became very strained with constant disagreements and finally by 1711 the Queen cut off all funding for the construction of Blenheim.  By this time, the Duke had also fallen out of favor with the Queen over political issues.  The Marlboroughs were banished from the Queen’s Court and forced into exile, they did not return to England until after Queen Anne died in 1714.

The Duchess had wanted the famed architect Sir Christopher Wren to design and build Blenheim Palace but the Duke choose to commission Sir John Vanbrugh.  There were constant arguments between the Queen, Parliament and the Duke over the funding for the construction.  When the contract was drawn, despite the wish of the Queen to honor the Duke for his service to the Crown, there was no mention as to who was responsible for payment to the architect and building costs.  Delays over conflicts in style and design persisted between the Duchess and Vanbrugh.  Then, accusations of extravagance made by Parliament caused budget restrictions and later when the Duke and Duchess fell out of favor with the Queen construction stopped during the time the Marlboroughs were living out of the country.  Upon their return, construction resumed at the expense of the Duke but further disagreements caused the replacement of Vanbrugh with his partner, Nicholas Hawksmoor.  In the end it had taken almost seventeen years to complete the construction of Blenheim Palace.

During almost 300 years of history, Blenheim Palace has been an ancestral home, mausoleum and monument to the Churchill family. Over the years, various members have made minor changes to the interior of the house as well as the gardens and parklands surrounding the estate.  At the end of the 19th century when the wealth of the family had been depleted due to social and economic changes in England, the estate was saved from ruin when the 9th Earl of Marlborough married the wealthy American railroad heiress Consuelo Vanderbilt.  Blenheim Palace is most notably the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill, the former Prime Minister of England.

Blenheim Palace

A Tour of Blenheim Palace

When visiting Blenheim Palace, guests enter through the East Gate with an inscription plaque that was added at the end of the 19th century by the 9th Duke stating the generous gift of Queen Anne to the 1st Duke of Marlborough.  After passing through the entrance, visitors enter the Kitchen Court area of the Palace.  To the right is the Palace gift store and to the left is the Orangery, or the greenhouse area, where currently most of the special events at the Palace are held.  Located in the Kitchen Court area are the Palace’s kitchen, bakehouse, laundry and storage areas.

Blenheim Palace  - Visitor Entrance    Blenheim Palace  - Visitor Entrance plaque

Guests will continue on through this area and pass under a grand archway with the Townsend’s Clock Tower overhead and emerge into the Great Court area of the Palace.  Be sure to look back and above either side of the archway for a view of the two stone “English” lions which are savagely devouring the “French” cocks, these statues symbolically reference the 1st Duke of Marlborough’s military victory in 1704 against the French at the Battle of Blenheim. If guests were to proceed directly straight across the Great Court there is another service area, the Stable Court, which was never fully completed and this area is where the several stables and storage areas.  To the right of the Clock Tower is the main gate of the Palace, known as the Ditchley Gate, and to the left is the entrance into the main building of the Palace.  In the original plans, Vanburgh had designed an impressive stone entrance in the center with colonnades on either side to completely enclose the Great Court but unfortunately these were never built.  The wrought iron gate was added later by the 9th Duke during extensive renovation and repairs of the Palace in the late 19th century.

From the Great Court, guests enter the main building of the Blenheim Palace passing through massive doors which features a complicated lock system fashioned in brass and copied from the gates of Warsaw, the door is opened with a huge coronet key.  The first room in the Palace is the Great Hall which has a 67 feet high ceiling painted in 1716 by Sir James Thornbill; the scene depicts Marlborough presenting to the Sovereign the plan for the Battle of Blenheim.  Standing just inside the front door, seen directly ahead is the Saloon, the original plan of the Palace’s first floor had two suites of state apartment rooms located to the left and right of the Saloon which were initially intended for visiting important guests and dignitaries such as the Queen or King.  The interconnected rooms of each suite were designed as follows: an audience room, then a private “withdrawing” room and lastly the bedroom of the suite with a small dressing room off to the side.  As you will see later in the tour, the rooms now serve different purposes.

The Saloon is entered into directly from the Great Hall; guest will pass under a large stone archway with the coat of arms of Queen Anne carved in stone by Grinling Gibbons to honor the sovereign who made Blenheim Palace possible.  The Saloon is the state dining room and now only used once a year by the current Marlborough family on Christmas Day.  The table is set with a Minton service and silver gilt with a silver centerpiece located on a side table depicting Marlborough on his horse after the Battle of Blenheim writing the famous dispatch to the Duchess of his victory over the French.  The other feature of note in the Saloon is the beautiful dome ceiling painted by Louis Laguerre representing Peace.  Laguerre also painted the murals on the walls around the perimeter of the room showing people (including his self-portrait) from all the nations of the world coming together in Peace, interestingly he included French spies.

Blenheim Palace  - the Saloon

To the left of the Saloon is the Green Writing Room with the most famous tapestry of Blenheim Palace depicting Marlborough in triumph accepting the French Marshall Tallard’s surrender at the Battle of Blenheim.  The next state room is the Red Drawing with two large painting of note, one by Sir Joshua Reynolds showing the 4th Duke and his family and facing it on the opposite wall is the John Singer Sargent portrait of the 9th Duke and his family.  Beyond this room is the Green Drawing Room.

30021 26-27A.TIF Blenheim Palace - Red Drawing Room

To the right of the Great Hall, entered down a corridor, is the Long Library.  This room is 180 feet long with very high ceilings that feature a series of domes and has several additional distinct features to note.  One is the large full length statue of Queen Anne by John Michael Rysbrack with an inscription noting the close ties between her and the 1st Duke and Duchess of Marlborough, the statue stands in the bow window area of the library.  The other is located at the north end of the room and it is a large organ that was commissioned by Henry Willis& Sons.  Later installed by the 9th Duke in 1891, it is the largest pipe organ in a private home in Europe.  The organ is still currently in use and played at the Palace on Friday and Sunday afternoons.

Blenheim Palace  - Queen Anne statue in the Library    Blenheim Palace  - the Palace Organ

From the Long Library, there is access down a colonnade to the Palace Chapel.  The Chapel was completed in 1732 and contains the tomb of the 1st Duke of Marlborough, the Duchess and their two sons; sadly their four daughters are not mentioned on the memorial and were buried elsewhere.  When the Duke died in 1722 he was buried in Westminster Abbey and when the Duchess died in 1744 his remains were re-interred at Blenheim Palace.  Successive Dukes and their wives are also interred in the vault beneath the chapel.  Most other members of Churchill family are interred in St. Martin’s parish churchyard at Bladon, a short distance from the palace.

Finally, located in a small room to the right of the Great Hall is the famous room that Winston Churchill was born in 1874 while his parents were visiting their relatives at Blenheim Palace.  Churchill’s mother, Lady Randolph, was taken by surprise when she gave birth to her son prematurely several weeks before he was expected.  It is fitting that Churchill was born at the Palace, since later in life he had a strong sense of family and came to greatly admire the 1st Duke of Marlborough.  Many years later, he proposed to his future wife, Clementine Ogilvy, at the Temple to Diana located beside the lake on the estate.  Churchill is also buried nearby Bladon; there is a direct line of axis from Blenheim Palace past the Column of Victory located on the estate to the cemetery in Bladon thereby symbolically linking both his birth and his death.

Blenheim Palace  - bedroom where Winston Churchill was born

Travel – Georgia Aquarium

Georgia Aquarium

On our way back from a summer road trip to Florida this year, we made an unscheduled stop in Atlanta and visited the Georgia Aquarium.  Our family enjoys going to aquariums during our travels across the United States, there is always something interesting to see and learn about the animals of the oceans, lakes and rivers.

In 2001 Bernard Marcus, a local Atlanta businessman, announced a $250 million donation for the purpose of building a world-class aquarium that would benefit the city of Atlanta economically while providing an educational experience for the community, an additional $40 million was obtained through corporate sponsorship.  After 44 months of design and construction time, the Georgia Aquarium opened in 2005 and is located near the World of Coca-Cola and within walking distance to the Centennial Olympic Park in downtown Atlanta.

The Aquarium building is more than 600,000 square feet and has over 110,000 fish and sea animals that represent more than five hundred species that are displayed in six different exhibit areas.  The largest is the Ocean Voyager exhibit which contains a 6.3 million gallon water tank that measures 284 feet by 126 feet with depths between 20 and 30 feet and includes a 100 foot underwater tunnel that visitors enter for an amazing view of thousands of fish, it is the largest indoor aquatic habitat in the world.  The exhibit is designed as the centerpiece of the aquarium and features several whale sharks and it is the only institution outside Asia that has these massive fish on display.  Also featured in this large tank are several manta rays, in 2008 when these rays were first put on display at the aquarium it was one of only four sites in the world to keep them in captivity.  (The long entrance tunnel gives visitors a very unusual view that feels like being underwater with these sea animals and near the exit of the exhibit is a series of very large observation windows for more amazing views.  I could have stayed there for a long time just watching the fish swimming by!)

Aquarium Virtual tour

Georgia Aquarium - tunnel 1  20130607_100943

To left of the entrance of the aquarium is the Georgia Explore exhibit with displays that are especially created for children to explore and there are several “touch tanks” with rays and sharks. Other tanks in this area of the aquarium features sea turtles and an interesting displays of several different sea animals that can be found in a National Marine Sanctuary called Gray’s Reef just off the Georgia coast.

Georgia Aquarium - albino alligator

Nearby is the River Scout exhibit of the aquarium which features an overhead river tank where visitors have a view of several different varieties of North American fish from the bottom up.  Other tanks in this area display piranha, electric eels and other unusual freshwater fish.

The most recent addition to the aquarium opened in 2011 and it is the Dolphin Tales exhibit which features an indoor dolphin show that is included in the cost of a general admission to the aquarium, visitors are required to select a specific time for one of the three dolphin shows held during the day.  Construction on the $110 million expansion began in 2008 and includes over 84,000 square feet of exhibit space that contains a 1.3 gallon water tank, a large stadium seating area and observation windows where visitors can see the dolphins during non-show times.  The Dolphin Tales show is an elaborate production of musical numbers featuring numerous performers and several bottlenose dolphins.  (The show is absolutely wonderful and was the highlight of our visit to the aquarium!)

Georgia Aquarium - Dolphin Tales

Another area of the aquarium is the Cold Water Quest exhibit area which features beluga whales, penguins and sea otters.  The final area of the aquarium is the tropical Diver exhibit which features a 164,000 gallon tank containing a large reef with several species of tropical fish, the aquarium actually “grows” their own coral for the display.  Other sea animals found in this exhibit area are different tanks containing sea horses, jellyfish, shrimp, and lobster.

Georgia Aquarium - beluga whale  Georgia Aquarium - penguins
Georgia Aquarium 1  Georgia Aquarium - crab
Georgia Aquarium - jellyfish

Travel information for visiting the Georgia Aquarium

  • Tickets are available at the ticket booth or can be purchased in advance online at www.georgiaaquarium.org or by phoning the Call Center at 404-581-4000.  General Admission includes both the Dolphin Tales show and the “Deepo’s Undersea  Wondershow” movie at the 4D Theater.  (Travel note: When purchasing general admission tickets be sure to select a show time for the Dolphin Tales show and arrive early prior the scheduled time to assure a good viewing area as the stadium seating does fill very quickly!)
  • The Aquarium can get very busy and crowded, especially during the summer months, so we advise arriving early in the morning.  If you want to avoid the crowds, consider visiting the aquarium during the fall or winter seasons.
  • Allow at least 3-4 hours when visiting the Aquarium, this will provide plenty of time to visit all the exhibits and to see the Dolphin Show and 4D movie.  (Travel note: When arriving at the Aquarium check for the posted feeding times for the animals on display, the animals diet is generally food normally found in their natural environment and watching the animals being feed can be an interesting experience)
  • There is an on-site food court, the Café Aquaria, which offers visitors a wide variety of menu items.  If there are dietary concerns and requirements, please check ahead on the Aquarium website for more information and a detailed menu at www.georgiaaquarium.org
  • Take advantage of the guided tours that are offered at the Aquarium.  The “Behind the Scenes” tour is limited to visitors 10 years or older and can be reserved prior to a visit and can be purchased tickets online or by calling the phone number listed above.  The one hour “Behind the Scenes” tour takes visitors into the areas of the most popular exhibits that are generally off limits and also to the Veterinary Clinic where the Aquarium staff cares for the animals and the Commissary where they prepares the food for the animals.
  • For visitors looking for a closer look at the Aquarium’s animals and a very unique experience, consider one of the Animal Encounters programs,  such as the “Dolphin Encounter”, the “Sea Otter Encounter” or the “Penguin Encounter”.  There is also other opportunities for visitors and animals to interact, such as the “Journey with the Gentle Giants” where visitor swim or dive with the whale sharks, manta rays and other sea animals in the Ocean Voyager exhibit or  the “Beluga & Friends interactive program” that provides an exclusive experience.  (Travel note: Check the Aquarium website for more information, prices, restrictions and limitations for these programs)