Travel – Grand Teton National Park

Grand Teton - sign

On one of our numerous road trips to around the United States we stopped at the Grand Teton National Park, it was part of a visit to the state of Wyoming where we also went to Yellowstone National Park, Jackson Hole and Cody.  The Grand Teton National Park has beautiful scenery, numerous outdoor activities and a variety of places to stay overnight ranging from simple camp sites in the park to more luxurious accommodations in nearby Jackson Hole.  In this Travel Post, I will discuss the history of the park, general visitor information for planning a visit and a list of things to see and do.

The history of the Grand Teton National Park

The Grand Teton National Park is located in northwest Wyoming.  The Grand Tetons are the youngest mountain range within the Rocky Mountains that were formed approximately 8 million years ago.  The Teton Mountain Range runs from north to south and was thrust upward on west side and downward on the east through a period of seismic activity caused by earthquakes on the Teton fault.  As a result, the mountains rise dramatically above the floor of the Jackson Hole Valley as seen from the eastern side and gently slope into the Teton Valley on the western side.  The highest elevation within the park is the 13,775 feet high Grand Teton peak; the eight other peaks known as the Cathedral Group are over 12,000 feet.  250,000 to 150,000 years ago the canyons and valleys of the Teton Range were formed by glacier activity and then later carved even deeper by water erosion.  A few glaciers still remain within the park, the Teton Glacier that is located on the northeast side of Grand Teton Peak and it measures 3,500 feet long and 1,100 feet wide.

The Paleo Native Americans came to the Grand Teton region over 11,000 years ago.  The Paleo were a migratory tribe of hunter-gatherers that spent the summer months in the Jackson Hole Valley to the east of the mountains and the winter months in the Teton Valley to the west of the Teton mountain range, this pattern of moving from one area to the other was determined by the weather conditions in the region.  The Paleo movement throughout the area was also determined by the availability of the elk herds that would roam throughout the region.

Later, in more current times, the Shoshone Native Americans lived in the same area of Wyoming and established permanent settlements.  The Shoshone were divided into two groups, the first and larger group lived in the Grand Teton Mountains and the other group lived in the foothills, both groups followed the same migratory patterns as the ancient Paleo people that previously lived in the same area.  The Shoshone seemed to have been very spiritually connection with the land and this theory is supported by the stone structures that archaeologists have found in the upper areas of the Grand Teton, the possible use of these structures was for vision quests (a Native American ritual common with the Plains people in which young men would be secluded from the main tribe to participate in a ceremonial attempt to gain a vision of a guardian spirit, typically methods to achieve the vision quest were through fasting or self-torture).  In 1868, the Shoshone from the Teton and Yellowstone regions were relocated by the United States government to the Wind River Indian Reservation which is located 100 miles southeast of Jackson Hole.

John Colter, a former member of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, passed through the Grand Teton area during the winter of 1807.  When some of the members of the expedition disbanded on the return trip, Colter decided to join a couple of fur trappers in their search for the lucrative beaver pelts that were potentially available in the area of the Grand Teton.  Colter was eventually hired by the fur trappers and when he passed through the area now known as Jackson Hole, he became the first Caucasian to see the Grand Teton Mountain Range.  Colter became something of a legend in the area and was very successful at the profitable fur business.

It is possible that the Mountain Range received the name from the French fur trappers that frequented the area and called it Les Trois Tetons which when translated means “the three breasts”.  The name of Jackson Hole, the valley east of the Tetons, comes from a fur trapper named Davey Jackson who oversaw the entire region for the Rocky Mountain Fur Company.  By the 1840s, the fur trade supply of beaver had declined drastically from over trapping.  Meanwhile the settlement of the western United States began in earnest but the Grand Teton region of Wyoming was not impacted at all because the overland routes of the Oregon and Mormon trails were located farther to the south.

Then, in 1859 the U.S. Government sponsored a year long expedition into the Grand Tetons area.  The expedition was led by U.S. Army Captain William Raynolds which included Jim Bridger, a local guide, and F.V. Hayden, a naturalist.  The expedition explored the area, mapping the territory and identifying the regions plants and animals.  Unfortunately, the expedition was halted due to the Civil War and later resumed in 1871 in the Yellowstone area.  This time the Hayden Geological Survey Team was led by James Stevenson and at this time most of the mountains and lakes were identified and given names.  Included on the survey team was a photographer named William Henry Jackson who took the first photographs of the Tetons that were later published in National newspapers.

By the early 1900s, American settlers finally came to the Jackson Hole valley and started building permanent homes.  The winters were long, the soil was too rocky and the growing season was too short to cultivate crop farms but later the vast empty lands would be perfect for cattle ranches.  In 1907, there was an effort made by the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation to construct dams along the Snake River to regulate and increase the water flow in the Jackson Hole valley for crop irrigation.

Meanwhile, back in 1872, the Yellowstone National Park had been established further north and the superintendent, Horace Albright, tried to block any further dam construction plans because he felt it would impact the lakes and rivers within the park.  It was proposed that the area to the south of Yellowstone, including the Jackson Hole Valley and the Grand Teton, should be included into the park.  Millionaire John Rockefeller, Jr. who privately owned a large portion of the Jackson Hole Valley agreed with Albright.  The residents in the area opposed this idea and wanted to establish a separate park and a long battle over the land began.  Ultimately, in 1929 President Calvin Coolidge signed the executive order establishing the Grand Teton National Park.

Albright and Rockefeller were not deterred and they remained focused on keeping the Jackson Hole Valley from being commercially used.  So, as a result, Rockefeller started buying even more property in the valley under the guise of the Snake River Land Company and he planned to turn the land over to the National Park Service.  When this plan was revealed to the residents of Jackson Hole it was met with strong opposition because the residents wanted to take the opportunity to establish tourist-based businesses to serve both the Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks.  In regards specifically to the Grand Teton National Park, congressional efforts to prevent its expansion were successful and Rockefeller’s Snake River Land properties would not be included into the park.  By 1942, Rockefeller was becoming impatient holding on to the properties and eventually at his urging he persuaded Secretary of the Interior Harold Ickes to recommend to President Franklin Roosevelt that under the Antiquities Act the land could be protected without the approval of Congress.  In 1943, with President Roosevelt’s approval, the land was donated by Rockefeller and used to create the Jackson Hole National Monument which was adjacent to the Grand Teton National Park.

Rockefeller retained his other large personal property holdings in the Jackson Hole Valley for the private use of his family; it was known as the JY Ranch and it was located at the southern border of the Grand Teton National Park. Then, after World War II, the public focus shifted to preserving our national resources and the Jackson Hole National Monument that Rockefeller had fought so hard to establish was finally incorporated into the Grand Teton National Park in 1950.  Then, in 1972 24,000 additional acres located between the Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks were added to the National Park Service, in honor and recognition of Rockefeller previous efforts the land between the two parks was named the John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway.  Eventually the JY Ranch previously owned by the Rockefeller family was donated to the park to establish the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve in June 2008. (Laurance was the son of John D. Rockefeller)

Grand Teton - barnGrand Teton - wild flowers

Grand Teton National Park Visitor Information  

Today, the Grand Teton National Park has an average of 2.5 million visitors annually making it one of the ten most visited National Parks in the United States.  The National Park Service manages both the Grand Teton National Park and the John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway jointly.  There are numerous activities available for visitors and a variety of accommodations ranging from campsites and rustic cabins or lodges within in the park to hotel accommodations ranging from inexpensive to luxurious spas and resorts in nearby Jackson Hole.  (Travel note: I would advise making reservations as early in advance as possible especially if you are planning a trip during the busy summer months)

Listed below are several points of interest, travel suggestions and tips to consider when planning a visit to the Grand Teton National Park:

  • Visitor Centers – I always recommend when visiting any of our National Parks, it is a good idea to start at the Visitor Center where visitors can get maps, brochures, hiking and boating permits and current weather information or road closures.  Also be sure to check the schedule of Ranger presentations or guided hikes which are a great source of information about the park.  The three Visitor Centers in the park are opened seasonally so check ahead for opening dates and times.  The Colter Bay and Jenny Lake Visitor Centers are the most popular but there is also the Moose Visitor Center.  (Travel Tip: Another recommendation for families with small children is the Junior Park Ranger program which is a wonderful way for children to learn about the wonders of our National Parks)

Grand Teton - Visitor Center exterior  Grand Teton - Visitor Center interior

Grand Teton - Colter Bay Visitor Center

  • Jackson Lake – Jackson Lake is the largest natural lake within the park, 15 miles in length and 5 miles wide.  Before the Grand Teton became a National Park a dam was constructed on Jackson Lake to control the water distributed to the area.  Sports activities available to visitors at Jackson Lake include fishing, canoeing, sailing and windsurfing.  Stand-up paddle boards are allowed but a park permit is required and available at the visitor centers.  Personal watercrafts are prohibited within the park.  (Travel Note: Jackson and Jenny Lakes are the only lakes within the Grand Teton where motorboats are permitted.  There is an interesting 2005 study concerning the water quality of the lakes that indicates that both lakes were considered clean and levels show that they had not been impacted by air or water pollution)

Grand Teton - Colter Bay Village Marina

  • Jenny Lake – Jenny Lake is another popular destination in the park, it is over 7 miles long.  Jenny Lake is also the starting point for many day or overnight hikes.  Located a short distance away from Jenny Lake to the west is the largest waterfall in the park, Hidden Falls is 100 feet high.

Jenny_Lake

  • Snake River – The headwaters of the Snake River are located in nearby Yellowstone National Park.  The river flows south and west into Jackson Lake located in the Grand Teton National Park and from the Jackson Lake Dam, the river continues its southern course as it twists through the park past the city of Jackson Hole.  Throughout the centuries the river has gone been called many different names, the Shoshone Native American called the river “Yam-pah-pa” which was the name of a herb that grew abundantly along river bank.  The first documented “discovery” was in 1800 by Canadian explorer David Thompson who recorded the name as “Shawpatin”.  In 1805, the Lewis and Clark Expedition passed near the area on their journey to the Pacific Ocean and it was named the “Lewis River” or “Lewis Fork” for Meriwether Lewis the co-leader of the expedition.  Ultimately, the name reverts back to the Shoshone who would use sign language gesturing their hands into an S-shaped motion to indicate fishing in the river but explorer misinterpreted the gesture to mean a snake and it became officially known as the Snake River.  Please click on the link to the Grand Teton website for more information regarding fly fishing or river rafting, www.nps.gov/grte/planyourvisit/index.htm

The Tetons and the Snake River by Ansel Adams

  • Mountaineering and Rock Climbing – The Teton Range has also become a mountain climber’s destination and there are many challenging routes that can be accessed from Jenny Lake area.  To speak in general terms mountain climbing can be divided into several different types, in this post I will briefly discuss two types – classic mountaineering when the mountain is traversed with the goal of reaching the summit and rock climbing, sometimes called bouldering, when the rock face is climbed with a minimum amount of equipment or with just the hands, also known as free climbing.  Evidence of the Native Americans climbing the Grand Tetons can be found at “The Enclosure” located about 530 feet below the summit of the Grand Teton Peak which was discovered in 1872 by members of the Hayden Geological Survey expedition, there is some debate as to whether the summit was actually reached.  The first official ascent of the summit of Grand Teton is credited to a group led by William Owen in 1898.  (Travel Note:  In the late 1950s a gymnast named John Gill came to the Grand Tetons and started climbing the large boulders near Jenny Lake.  He developed a new style to rock climbing that used many of his acquired gymnastic techniques, he was the first to use gymnastic chalk to keep hands dry while climbing and also to secure and improve better handholds for stability)

The Enclosure

  • Chapel of the Transfiguration – The Chapel of the Transfiguration is a small log chapel located in the park.  The 22 foot by 50 foot chapel was built in 1925 and is designed in the shape of a T with exposed log interior wall and stained glass windows on either side.  The large window behind the altar was specifically built to frame the wonderful view of the Grand Tetons Cathedral Group of mountains.  The chapel was originally built for the employees and guests of the dude ranches of the Jackson Hole Valley with the construction materials and labor funded by the local ranchers.  In 1980 the chapel was placed on the National Register of Historic Places.  (Travel Trivia: The chapel was used in the 1963 movie “Spencer’s Mountain” starring Henry Fonda and Maureen O’Hara which was being filmed in Jackson Hole)

Grand Teton - church  Grand Teton - Chapel of the Transfiguration interior
Be sure to check out the other Travel Post this month about nearby Yellowstone National Park, just click on the link.

Travel – Polynesian Cultural Center

Polynesian Cultural Center entrance

A few years ago I did a Travel Post, Hawaii – the 50th State, which discussed the history of Hawaii and offered travel suggestions and points of interest to see when planning a trip.  One of those places to visit was the Polynesian Cultural Center located on the island of Oahu about 32 miles from Honolulu.  The Polynesian Cultural Center is a great place to experience the many cultures of the islands of the Pacific Ocean.  In this post I will discuss the origin of the Center as well as important tourist information pertaining to the various activities available for visitors.

A brief history of the Polynesian Cultural Center

The Polynesian Cultural Center is located in Laie on the island of Oahu.  The Center is operated by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints (known as the LDS or the Mormon Church) and it opened on October 12, 1963.  The Center occupies 42 acres located near the Brigham Young University – Hawaii and the LDS Laie Hawaii Temple and for this reason the Center is mostly staffed by BYU students.

Back in the 1940s and the 1950s, the local LDS Church would hold traditional luaus and hukilaus (a festive beach gathering with Hawaiian song and dance entertainment) as a way to earn money to rebuild the local church that was destroyed in a fire.  The gatherings proved to be very popular with the locals and the tourists, so in the 1960s the idea expanded into a permanent theme park/living history museum.  The original purpose of the Center was to provide employment for the BYU students and also to preserve the cultures of Polynesia.

Polynesian Cultural Center - circa 1963

Polynesian Cultural Center Visitor information

When visiting the Polynesian Cultural Center there are several different admission packages.  General admission includes: access to explore the different island villages, the canoe pageant, tram tour of Historical Laie, and the IMAX film “Hawaiian Journey”.  Other packages include a variety of dining and entertainment experiences selections, such as Ali’i Luau dinner/show, the Island or Prime Rib buffets and the evening spectacular “HA: Breath of Life” evening show.  Visitors may also take a free shuttle tour of the BYU campus, the Laie Hawaii Temple ant the LDS visitor center.  For more information regarding the different types of package options and pricing, please see the Polynesian Cultural Center website – www.polynesia.com

Polynesian Cultural Center map

“Hawaiian Journey” IMAX film –

A great place to start a visit at the Polynesian Cultural Center is by seeing the IMAX “Hawaiian Journey” film.  The 14-minute film offers spectacular scenes of Hawaii and features special effects that allow visitors to feel the ocean spray and the rumble of a volcano.  (Special Note:  There are “regular” seats available if visitors do not wish to experience the special effects)

“HA – Breath of Life” evening show – 

The “HA – Breath of Life” evening show is a shown once nightly in the 2,700 capacity Pacific Theatre, the amphitheater is beautifully landscaped with tropical plants and waterfalls.  The show, which premiered in 2011, is an extravagant special effects production with a cast of over 100 performers and tells the story of a Polynesian man named Mana and his journey through life experiencing love, tragedy and triumph.  The show features songs and dances from the different villages featured at the Polynesian Cultural Center.  Of course, one of the highlights of the show is the dramatic fireknives performers.  (Special Note: The amphitheater has terraced seating; according to the Center website they recommend seating in the Ambassador sections although any seat in the house will provide good viewing.  Also, Hawaiian evenings can sometimes get chilly and the theater is open-air, so I would recommend having a light sweater or jacket handy just in case)

HA Breath of Life show    Fireknives

Canoe Pageant –

Meandering throughout the villages is a canal of water and lagoon where once daily there is a special performance featuring the different Polynesian regions.  On each double-hulled canoe, one from each of the different villages, there are performers dressed in colorful traditional costumes which dance and play the music of their region.  The current canoe pageant premiered in May 2010 and is called “Rainbows of Paradise”.  (Special Note: Be sure to check for the Canoe Pageant current show time when you first arrive at the Center and arrive early to the lagoon area before the show to get a good viewing spot)

Canoe pageant 1    Canoe pageant 2

Polynesian Cultural Center Villages – 

As visitors enter the Polynesian Cultural Center, to the right of the visitor/orientation center there are several different Polynesian villages set around the main canal and lagoon.  Starting to the right of the main entrance and moving counter clockwise, the first village visitors will encounter is Samoa, then Aotearoa (islands of New Zealand), Fiji, Hawaii, the Marquesas Islands, Tahiti and Tonga.  Each village showcases their individual culture through entertainment performances and cultural learning experiences through demonstrations, exhibitions and crafts. There is also a special exhibit on Rapa Nui (Easter Island).

Listed below are the Polynesian Cultural Center villages and a brief description of each:

Samoa Village –

Samoa is comprised of two separate areas located about halfway between Hawaii and New Zealand, the independent nation of Samoa and the smaller American Samoa, the only U.S. territory located south of the equator.  Both nations speak the same language and share the same cultural traditions.  Samoans are generally known for their good nature and enjoyment of life.

DCF 1.0

The Samoa village has several presentation times throughout the day and the demonstrations are interesting and very entertaining.  Some of the demonstrations are how to start a fire with two sticks, how to crack open a coconut and how to climb a coconut tree.

Samoa - fire 1  Samoa - fire 2  Samoa - tree climber

Aotearoa (New Zealand) Village –

Aotearoa signAotearoa is the Maori name given to the northern island of New Zealand, the most common translation is “the land of the long white cloud” which has been used by the Maori people for 1,000 years.  (Special note:  As visitors enter the Aotearoa village listen for the traditional Maori greeting “Kia Ora”, which means good health)

The Aotearoa village has a limited number of presentation times throughout the day.  After visitors enter the Maori meeting house, the guides will give a brief explanation of the intricate carving and the symbolic significance of the various architectural features.  The guides will also explain the unusual Maori facial tattoos and their ancient origins, they will also explain the meaning behind their iconic protruding tongue gesture.  Performances at the Aotearoa village include the haka (the Maori war dance) and a rhythmic dance using poi balls (originally made of dried moss wrapped with raupo or flax).  Demonstrations include the tititorea (a Maori stick game) which is used in training hand and eye coordination, the object of the game is not to drop the sticks as they are passed in various patterns and in rhythm to the music.  (Special note:  Before leaving the Aotearoa village, a fun idea for children or adults is to receive a temporary Maori tattoo)

poi ball dance

Fiji Village –

The independent nations of the Fiji Islands are located near the equator.  Historically, the people of Fiji have been known as seafarers that have traveled throughout the Pacific over several thousand years interacting with many of the other Polynesian people.  In 1874 Fiji became a British colony and laborers from India were brought in to work on the sugar plantations then, after almost one hundred years, the British government granted Fiji independence in 1970.

Fiji sign

When visiting the Fiji village, be sure to see the cultural presentations and demonstrations which are given several times during the day.  Visitors will see a Lali (log drum) musical presentation and a poi ball dance.  While in the Fiji village be sure to see the various types of Fiji weapons made from tropical hardwoods, such as the I wau (a type of war club) and I ula (a throwing club with a short handle and bulbous head.

Fiji village - clubs

Also be sure explore the Fiji village temple (Bure Kalou or “spirit house”) and other village houses, such as the Vale Levu (Fijian chief’s house) which has specific doors for servants and visitors, another for the chief’s family and one exclusively for the use of the chief.  Tradition states that anyone entering the chief’s door can be put to death.

Fiji village - temple

Hawaii Village –

Hawaii became the 50th state on August 21, 1959 and is an archipelago (a group of islands stretched over a body of water).  The volcanically formed islands stretch over 1,500 miles in the Pacific Ocean and the eight main islands from northwest to southwest are: Nihau, Kauai, Oahu, Molokai, Lanai, Kahoolawe, Maui and the “Big Island” of Hawaii.  In 1778 James Cook, a British explorer, visited the area and named the islands “the Sandwich Islands” to honor the sponsor of the expedition John Montagu, the 4th Earl of Sandwich.  Throughout the centuries, with the increasing influence of European and Chrisitanity, much of the Hawaiian culture was lost or banned and later through the concerned efforts and encouragement of both King Kalakaua and Princess Liluokalani, there was a resurgence of Hawaiian traditions and customs.

Hawaii sign

The Hawaii village features several different presentations and demonstrations shown several times throughout the day and many will seem very familiar to visitors.  Visitors will see a dance demonstration of the hula which is the iconic and beautiful dance set to music or a chant using the body, specifically the hands and hips to tell a story. Another interesting demonstration is how tropical leaves and flowers can be made into a Hawaiian lei (a floral garland which can be given as a traditional Hawaiian greeting or to show affection).  Visitors should also take the time to tour several of the hale (a Hawaiian house or building) which are traditionally made with pili grass thatched roofs, thus the Americanized nickname of “grass shack”.

Before leaving the Hawaii village, visitors should see the taro (a root plant that is a staple in the Polynesian diet) presentation and demonstration of how it is prepared for eating.  The taro root is baked or steamed in water and then mashed to make poi which is slightly purple in color and the consistency can vary from very thick to thin depending on the preference of the cook or their guests.  (Special Note:  If you are interested in tasting poi, visitors are given the opportunity at the end of the presentation and I would recommend giving it a small taste!)

Hawii - poi

Tahiti Village –

Tahiti is a French Polynesian archipelago comprised of volcanic islands located in the southern portion of the Pacific Ocean.  Modern Tahiti is a wonderful blend of ancient Polynesian heritage with French sophistication and style.

Tahiti sign

The Tahiti Village has many presentations and demonstrations that are scheduled throughout the day.  Visitors will see a demonstration of the ote’a, a traditional Tahitian dance with fast hip-shaking to loud rhythmic to ‘ere drum beats.  The Tahiti Village also has demonstrations which show how the Tahitians make both flower and shell leis, visitors can also sample delicious Tahitian coconut bread or participate in a spear-throwing competition.

Tonga Village –

Tonga is a Polynesian sovereign state, has never been ruled by a foreign power and is an archipelago made up of 177 islands that are spread over 500 miles.  Fifty-two of the islands are populated and most have white sand beaches, coral reefs and tropical rain forests.

Tonga sign 1

Tonga is known as the “friendly islands” and as visitors walk around the village it is easy to see why.  Presentations and demonstrations include performances of both the lakalaka (considered the national dance of Tonga) and the mauluulu (a type of sitting dance).  Be sure to see one of the most popular presentations of the ta nafa (Tongan drum)  

Other Exhibits at the Polynesian Cultural Center-

Rapa Nui (Easter Island) Exhibit

As visitors move through the many Polynesian villages, there is an exhibit on Rapa Nui also known as the Easter Island.  Rapa Nui is a Chilean island in the southeast portion of the Pacific Ocean and, according to Polynesian ancient oral history and supported by linguistic specialist, a Marquesas Island chief that led his people to the island about 1,500 years ago.  The name Easter Island was given by the Dutch explorer, Jacob Roggeveen, when he visited it on Easter Sunday in 1722.

Rapanui sign 1    Rapa Nui

Rapa Nui is world famous for the several hundred mo’ai (monolithic human figures) which are scattered around the island, the god-like statues are ringa ora (living faces) of the Rapa Nui natives’ ancestors which are positioned on the island to look toward their original homeland.  The mo’ai built at the Polynesian Cultural Center were made from specially formulated cement to closely duplicate the scoria (a type of volcanic rock) found on Rapa Nui, natives from the island were also brought to the Center to carve the cement statues of the exhibit.

Iosepa “Voyage of Discovery” Exhibit –

Tucked away among the villages of the Polynesian Cultural Center is a halau (a place of learning) which holds an almost 60 foot long double-hulled canoe made of Fijian dakua wood.  Twice a day there is a presentation about how the Iosepa is used by BYU – Hawaii as a sailing classroom where students learn about now the ancient Polynesians navigated across the Pacific Ocean, when the Iosepa is not being used during the spring and summer months it is stored at the Center.  Visitors to the exhibit will also learn about how a celestial navigation compass is used, how the canoe is prepared and the activities the “crew” will perform during an ocean voyage.

Iosepa exhibit

This concludes the Travel post on the Polynesian Cultural Center and for more specific visitor information, please check out their website- www.polynesia.com For more tourist information about planning a trip to Hawaii with suggestions on places to visit, please click on the Travel post link to Hawaii – the 50th State.

Travel – Balmoral

Balmoral - exterior

The British Royal Family lives by tradition and for centuries now they have been spending the summer months, August to October, at Balmoral in the Highlands of Scotland.  Balmoral has been a Royal private residence since the time of Queen Victoria when it was purchased by Prince Albert in 1852.  Initially, when the Royal couple visited Edinburgh as newlyweds, the Highlands reminded Prince Albert of his home back in Germany and they decided it would be a perfect place to bring their young family.

Balmoral has been enjoyed by several generations of the Royal family throughout the years and it was happily where Prince Charles and Princess Diana spent part of their honeymoon in 1981.  But sadly, after their divorce fifteen years later, it is where Prince Charles and his sons heard the tragic news of Diana’s death in a car crash in Paris in 1997.

The History of Balmoral

Prior to the mid-1600s, the first structure on site was a small hunting lodge used by King Robert II of Scotland and in 1451 a larger house with a tower was built by Alexander Gordon and the estate became known as “Bouchmorale”.  In 1662, the estate passed to Charles Farquharson and then in 1798 James Duff the 2nd Earl Fife purchased the property and several years later it was leased it to Sir Robert Gordon in 1830.

Balmoral 1853

Then in 1842, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert visited the Highlands of Scotland and stayed in Edinburgh.  They loved the area so much that they returned again several times over the following years, Prince Albert in particular loved the region as it reminded him of his beloved German homeland.   For this reason the Royal Couple were considering a home in Highlands and decided it would be a perfect for their young family to escape London during part of the hot summer months every year.

Balmoral - Queen Victoria and family

Prince Albert purchased Balmoral in 1852 which meant that the property was held privately by the Royal Family and that it was not part of the Crown.  In addition to Balmoral, the adjacent property known as Birkhall was purchased at the same time to further afford the Royal Family more privacy.  But with their family growing quickly, the Balmoral house proved to be too small and the decision was made to build a larger house.  More room was also needed to accommodate visitors of the Royal Family and also Queen Victoria’s official cabinet members.  William Smith, an architect from Aberdeen, was commission for the building project and he worked closely with Prince Albert who has some very definite opinions on the new home’s designs.  In the summer of 1853, a site not far from the original building was chosen and Queen Victoria laid the corner stone that September.  By waiting to demolish the old building, the Royal Family was able to stay there while the new house was being built.  (Interesting Note:  Located on the expansive front lawn, opposite the tower and about 100 yards from the path, is a stone marker that was placed on the site of the original house at Balmoral that was demolished in 1856)

Balmoral 1897

The architectural design is known as Scottish Baronial style and Balmoral was built with granite found on the property. The home floor plan is symmetrical in design with two blocks of rooms arranged around a central courtyard with a tall 80 foot turret topped clock tower at one end of the block.  The interior of the house was decorated in the distinctive Highland style with plenty of tartan featured throughout the many rooms.  The construction of the main house was finally completed in 1856.

Balmoral - Queen's drawing room 1857

Upon spending increasing amounts of time at Balmoral, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert immersed themselves in the Highland culture.  The interior of the house was uniquely decorated with plenty of distinctive Highland tartan and taxidermy stag heads which were featured throughout the many rooms of Balmoral.  Queen Victoria enjoyed long hours spent walking on the moors and Prince Albert spent days hunting deer on the property.  The Royal Family also attended the Highland games at nearby Braemar and hosted the annual Ghille Ball held at Balmoral.

Balmoral 2

In addition to the new home at Balmoral, improvements were made on several cottages and outbuildings as well as the gardens and woodlands on the property.  Prince Albert supervised the planting of conifers on the grounds, the building of a new bridge and the establishment of a farm and dairy.

After Prince Albert’s death in 1861, Queen Victoria went into period of deep mourning and spent an increasing amount of time at Balmoral where she spent so many happy times with her beloved husband and far away from her Royal duties in London.  Several memorials were erected on the property; the pyramid- shaped cairn at the top of Craig Lurachain erected a year after his death and a statue of Prince Albert which was placed on the event of the twenty-eighth anniversary of the engagement of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert.

Balmoral - Prince Albert memorial cairn    Balmoral - Prince Albert statue

Since Queen Victoria was staying at Balmoral for a lengthy amount of time during the year, the perpetually mourning Queen came to depend on a local ghillie (a Highland gamekeeper and servant) named John Brown.  Brown was able to meet Queen Victoria’s dark moods and he ultimately encouraged her to move forward with her life.  His constant companionship with the Queen greatly comforted her, some say their relationship was intimate, but still their closeness caused hostility among her family members.  Much like she did when Prince Albert died, when John Brown in 1883 the Queen commissioned a statue of him which was placed on the estate.  After the death of Queen Victoria in 1901 her son, now known as King Edward VII, had many of the Brown memorials destroyed and the Brown statue was moved to a remote place on the property.  (Special Note:  If you are interested in more information about Queen Victoria and John Brown, I would recommend the 1997 film “Mrs. Brown” starring Judi Dench as the Queen and Billy Connolly as Brown)

Balmoral - Queen Victoria and John Brown 1868    Balmoral - John Brown statue

King Edward VII continued the tradition of the Royal Family annual trip to Balmoral during the autumn months.  His successor and son, King George V also enjoyed the annual trip to the Highlands.  After the death of King George V his son, known as King Edward VIII, acquired the ownership of Balmoral when it was passed to him in 1936.  Later that same year when he abdicated the throne to his brother, now known as King George VI, part of the negotiated settlement was the sale of both Balmoral and Sandringham (properties personally owned and not part of the Crown) to King George VI.  After the death of King George VI in 1952, his daughter, the current reigning Queen Elizabeth II inherited Balmoral and she continues the Royal Family tradition of annual trips to Balmoral during the months of August to October.

Balmoral - Queen Elizabeth and family 1972 a

Tourist Information Regarding Balmoral

Balmoral is open to the public daily from the end of March to the end of July, closed from August to October when the Queen is in residence and then opened again on a limited number of days during the months of November and December.  For more information on specific days, times and admission fees, please see the official website at www.balmoralcastle.com

Balmoral offers visitors a variety of activities for visitors and the price of admission includes parking, a one hour guided tour including the Castle’s Ballroom and access to the gardens, the exhibitions and also an audio tour.  There is also a small restaurant and gift store for visitors.  It is advised that a minimum of at least one and a half hours is reserved when planning a trip.

Points of Interest at Balmoral

The Balmoral Castle Ballroom –

Ballroom is the largest room at Balmoral and it is the only room is open to the public; there is no access to the other rooms of the Castle because they are considered the Queen’s private rooms.  Displayed in the Ballroom are several paintings by Edwin Landseer (an English painter who specialized in Highland landscapes and portraits) and Carl Haag (a Bavarian-born painter for the Duke of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha who later became a naturalized British citizen).  Also displayed in the Ballroom are silver statues by John Boehm and several pieces of Minton China (the famous bone china produced in Staffordshire, England)

The Ballroom is probably most famously known as the setting for the annual Ghillie Ball, Queen Victoria started the tradition in 1852 when she wanted to thank her servants and other members of her staff for their good service.  The ball is a much anticipated event for everyone at Balmoral because of opportunity for the servants to socialize and even dance with the Queen and her family.  Historical Note:  In 2014, the Ghillie Ball was postponed for one day by Queen Elizabeth to allow the vote on Scottish independence referendum.  The end result was a decisive 53% vote against independence.

Balmoral - Gillis Ball 1859

Garden Cottage –

Located not far from Balmoral is the Garden Cottage were visitors will be able to view a short film that shows how the 50,000 acre estate is managed.  The original Garden Cottage was built in 1863 but by 1894 it had fallen into disrepair and was demolished.  The current structure was built with stone and wood supplied by the materials on the property and it was completed in 1895.  In her later years, Queen Victoria often used the cottage in the morning to have breakfast or in the afternoon to work on State papers, correspondence and to write in her journals.

The gardens adjacent to the cottage were originally planted under the guidance direction of Prince Albert.  Several years later, during the reign King George VI, Queen Mary re-designed the garden with a fountain surrounded partially by a rock wall, the garden gate still bears the monograms of King George and Queen Mary (GR &MR).  More recently, the Duke of Edinburgh planted a large vegetable garden to supply the Royal Family during the summer months.    Balmoral - Garden Cottage

Birkhall –

The Birkhall property was purchased by Prince Albert in 1849 in addition to the Balmoral estate, it was set aside for the exclusive use of his eldest son, Prince Edward (the Prince of Wales and later King Edward VII).  Later, in 1884 Queen Victoria bought the property back from her son and used it to provide housing for her staff.

When King George V inherited Balmoral after the death of his father, he lent Birkhall to his second son, the Duke and Duchess of York (the parents of the current Queen Elizabeth II).  The Royal couple enjoyed their time at Birkhall with their two daughters and during the time they occupied the house they redecorated the interior and replanted the gardens.  In 1936, when King George VI ascended to the throne, Birkhall was lent to Princess Elizabeth and during the summer months it was occupied by her, Prince Philip and their small children.

After the death of King George, his daughter, Queen Elizabeth moved to the main house at Balmoral during their summer visits and her mother, Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, returned once more to Birkhall and she continued using it until her death in March 2002.

After the Queen Mother’s death, Prince Charles (the Prince of Wales) inherited Birkhall.  When he married Camilla, the Duchess of Cornwall, in 2005 they spent their honeymoon at the Birkhall.

Balmoral - Birkhall

Craigowan Lodge –

Craigowan Lodge is located on the Balmoral estate about one mile from the main house.  The seven bedroom stone house was frequently used by Prince Charles and Princess Diana when they would visit Balmoral during the summer months.  Now the lodge is used for the housing of very important guests or sometimes various Royal Family members and when the Queen arrives at the estate in mid-July, she uses the lodge while the main house is being prepared for her extended stay during the summer months.

Balmoral - Craigowan Lodge

For more information about another privately owned British Royal residence, please click on the link to Sandringham.

Travel – Althorp (Part One)

althorp1

In honor of Diana Spencer, the Princess of Wales birthday (born: July 1, 1961  died: August 31, 1997, in Part One of a two part series I will discuss the history Althorp which is the Spencer ancestral home located in Northamptonshire, England which is about 75 miles from London.  The Spencer family has lived there for more than 500 years and Diana spent her childhood years there.  Althorp is now currently the home of Charles Spencer the 9th Earl of Spencer; Diana’s brother famously spoke out against the treatment of his sister at her funeral in Westminster Abbey in 1997.  Today, Althorp is best known as the final resting place of Diana, the Princess of Wales and has become a tourist destination for many visitors to England. (Please click on the link to Part Two for more information about Althrop including a tour of the various rooms of the house, the grounds and Diana’s gravesite on the island of the the Round Oval)

The History of Althorp And The Spencer Family

Althorp has existed since medieval times as a small hamlet which was originally situated on the southwest side of the property just east of the current West Lodge.  By the 15th century the small population had dwindled and eventually all the residences had moved away.

In 1508, John Spencer purchased the Althorp property from the Catesby family with money earned from his sheep business.  The land consisted of 300 acres of grassland and another 100 acres of woodland with 40 acres covered with water.  Over the next four years, Spencer worked hard and the property was divided into four large sheep pastures.

When John Spencer died in 1522, the estate passed to his youngest son, William.  William was the Sheriff of Northamptonshire and he owned it until his death in 1532.  Over the next several years the property remained in the Spencer family with ownership passing from father to son.  By 1603, Robert Spencer had been made the 1st Baron of Wormleighton and King Charles I had planned a Royal visit to the estate.  Althorp was enlarged to accommodate the King and his court, a new drawing room was built and the main hall was enlarged for a grand banquet.

After Robert Spencer’s death in 1627, Althorp went to his son William.  Several more years passed and the estate ownership went from father to son.  Henry Spencer, the eldest son of William was rewarded the title of Earl of Sunderland after his honorable military service, unfortunately he was killed in battle at the age of 23.  At the time of his father’s death, his eldest son, Robert, was only two years old.  Robert soon grew into a temperamental young man and because of his controversial views on the monarchy he was eventually forced to leave the country.  Almost ten years had passed when he returned from the Netherlands and at that time there had been a drastic reversal of his political opinions.  He had quickly regained favor with the King and subsequently became Lord Chamberlain of the Royal Household in April 1697.  During his time as owner and custodian of Althorp, Robert had rebuilt the house and also made many improvements and changes to the grounds.

Robert died in 1702 and his son Charles inherited the estate and held Althorp for twenty years and he greatly expanded the library by adding several hundred volumes of books.  In 1700 Charles brought a higher level of notoriety to the family when he married Anne Churchill, the daughter of John Churchill the first Duke of Marlborough; the marriage brought an important connection between the Spencer and the Churchill families.

Althorp-House-John-Vorsterman-Painting-1677

Over the next fifty years, Althorp passed through several more generations from father to son to brothers to son again.  The rules of British inheritance were very strict regarding property and aristocratic titles, so for this reason the title of Duke of Marlborough came to the Spencer family through their connection with the Churchill family.  Also the monetary value of the estate had increased dramatically throughout this period, when John Spencer died in 1746 his son, also named John, received the largest inheritance in England at the time.

John, the 7th Earl of Sunderland and 4th Duke of Marlborough, served as a Member of Parliament representing Warwick from 1756 to 1761.  John lived a lavish lifestyle, dressing in expensive clothes and entertaining in a grand manner.  When he turned 21 years old, there was a large ball for 5,000 guests held at Althorp in December 1755 and during the party John secretly married Margaret Poyntz and they waited to announce their marriage until a few days after the party.  The good fortune of John continued and in 1761 King George III made him a Baron and he became Viscount Spencer, then in 1765 he became Earl Spencer.

Althorp_House_in_the_1820s

In 1783, upon the death of his father, George Spencer (2nd Earl of Spencer) inherited Althorp and he went onto have a very successful political life.  He served as Whig MP for Northampton from 1780 to 1782 and then for Surrey from 1782 to 1783.  George was also very interested in Althorp’s library and, through his literary pursuits, turned it into the one of the largest private libraries in Europe.  As George became an old man, his book collecting became an obsession as he attempted to collect every volume published in Britain.  Unfortunately, after starting out as one of the richest men in England, by the time of his death in 1834 he was deeply in debt.

George_John_Spencer_2nd_Earl_Spencer_1774_76

John, the 3rd Earl of Spencer, was able to work through his father’s debts without losing Althorp’s large book collection.  He was also to maintain the estate as well as the additional Spencer houses and properties which had become quite extensive.  There was Spencer House in London, a home in Wimbledon, a farm in Wiseton and a hunting lodge in Norfolk.  John drastically reduced his living expenses and reduced the staff of Althorp by living the majority of the year at the small house in Wiseton.  The other Spencer lands and properties were leased or sold and gradually by the time of John’s death in 1845, the Spencer estate was profitable once again.  By the time of John Spencer, the 5th Earl of Spencer also known as the Red Earl, inherited the estate in 1857 it was once again in financial debt.  To clear the debt and maintain the estate’s many holdings, the majority of the large book collection was sold to be used in the University of Manchester.

John Spencer - Viscount Althorp, 3rd Earl Spencer (1782-1845)

The financial problems of the Spencer family continued through the late 19th century and into the early 20th century, so many of the estate’s properties and assets were sold.  By the time of Albert Spencer, the 7th Earl of Spencer, inherited in 1922 the fortune of the estate was still financially troubled and despite his heightened interest in art, he needed to sell many of Althorp’s paintings and other pieces of artwork to help decrease the debt owed.  Fortunately, during World War II Althrop was not used as a military barracks or converted into a hospital for the wounded soldiers but Albert did grant them permission to use the estate’s stable instead and the main house at Althorp remained used for the duration of the war.    With Spencer House being located in London, during the Blitz and the frequent German bombing and the decision was made to move most of the furniture and valuable items to Althorp for safekeeping.

7th Earl of Spencer

After the war, the Althorp estate was opened to the public for tours in 1953 to raise revenue for taxes.  Upon the death of his father in 1975, Edward Spencer, the 8th Earl of Spencer, inherited the estate.  (Edward served as Equerry to King George VI and later for Queen Elizabeth II)  It was a this time that Edward and his young family of three girls and one boy came to live at Althorp, the youngest daughter was destined to marry Prince Charles the heir to the British throne in 1981 and she became Diana, the Princess of Wales.  Diana and siblings enjoyed their childhood at Althorp despite the fact that their parents had gone through a bitter divorce in 1969 and their mother’s subsequent abandonment when Edward was awarded custody of the children.

By the time of his death in 1992, the Althorp estate was still losing money regardless of the fact that many pieces of antique furnishings were sold.  Charles Spencer, the 9th Earl of Spencer and current owner of Althorp, has been able to slowly pay off some of the debt to keep the estate running.  To pay for an extensive restoration project to repair the roof and stonework of Althorp, Charles auctioned hundreds of furnishings and other items which had long been in storage.  After the death of his sister, Diana, in tragic car crash in Paris in 1997 and her burial on a small island on Round Oval Lake at Althorp visitors flocked to the estate to pay tribute.  Despite the increased funds that this recent tourism has brought to Althorp is unsure as to whether it can be sustained over an extended period of time to provide the massive expenses needed to run the large estate.

Charles Spencer

Please click on the link to Part Two for more information about Althrop including a tour of the various rooms of the house, the grounds and Diana Princess of Wales final resting place.

Travel – Althorp (Part Two)

Althorp - exterior

As previously mentioned in Part One of the two part series on Althorp, I will discuss the history of the Spencer ancestral home located in Northamptonshire, England.  Althorp was also the childhood home of Diana Spencer, the Princess of Wales birthday (born: July 1, 1961 died: August 31, 1997).  Althorp is now currently the home of Charles Spencer the 9th Earl of Spencer; Diana’s brother who famously spoke out against the treatment of his sister at her funeral in Westminster Abbey in 1997.  Today, Althorp is best known as the final resting place of Diana, the Princess of Wales and has become a tourist destination for many visitors to England.

Althorp is located in Northamptonshire, England about 75 miles from London.  The Spencer family has lived there for more than 500 years and has paid host to various Kings and Queens throughout its long history.  In 1603, Robert Spencer held a grand banquet for King Charles I.  In 1761, King George III made John Spencer a Viscount and later the first Earl of Spencer.  In 1913, King George V and Queen Mary visited the estate and stayed in the room at Althorp that is now known as the Queen Mary bedroom.  Edward Spencer, the 8th Earl of Spencer served as Equerry to King George VI and later for Queen Elizabeth II.  The current 9th Earl of Spencer is the brother of the late Princess Diana and is the uncle of her children, Prince William and Prince Harry.

The original home built at Althorp in 1677 was a classic Tudor style red brick building.  The current building dates back to 1688 with alterations made in 1788 with Yorkshire stone and four Corinthian pilasters or columns and large sash windows surrounded in stone which were added to the front exterior.  Historical Note:  It has been said that the stone used for the pilasters was originally intended by Sir Christopher Wren to be used for the construction of St. Paul’s Cathedral in London.

The interior of Althorp features well-appointed rooms with a central grand staircase leading to the upper floor.  The rooms are beautifully decorated with furniture, paintings and objects of art including numerous pieces of priceless porcelain.  In World War II during the Blitz antique furniture, marble fireplaces and other valuable items from the Spencer House in London were moved to Althorp for safekeeping.  Some interesting and unique items included doors from the Spencer House dating back to the 18th century which featured curled “S” (for Spencer) doorknobs.  Sadly, throughout the years as the Spencer family estate became severely in debt and large portions of furnishings and part of Althorp’s large book collection were sold.

The Althorp estate included not only the elegant house and adjacent beautiful garden but all the surrounding 13,000 acres property.  There are 28 other buildings or structures on the estate grounds including the large building known as the Stable Block.  The Althorp Park area of estate is wonderfully landscaped with rows of trees and a large pong with a small island positioned in the middle.  On this remote island, not accessible to the general public, is the final resting place of Diana, the Princess of Wales who died in a tragic car accident in Paris in 1997.  Located nearby the lake is the Diana Memorial and, when the estate is opened annually to visitors during the months of July and August, the Stable Block has been converted into an exhibition center (unfortunately the Diana: A Celebration exhibit permanently closed in 2013)

Interesting Fact:  Charles Spencer, the 9th Earl of Spencer and the current owner of the Althorp estate was a tour guide at the house was he was a boy.  This when Charles gained his extensive knowledge about the Spencer ancestral history and most importantly how he developed his steadfast desire to maintain Althorp for future generations.

A Tour of Althorp

Wootton Hall –

The grand entrance area located on the ground floor of Althorp is known as Wootton Hall, the name honors the English equestrian painter John Wootton.  The Spencer family commissioned Wootton in 1733 to create several fox hunting paintings that still hang in the entrance hall.  The space is beautifully proportioned with ceilings that rise two-stories high.  The 18th century plaster floral ceiling by Colen Campbell and the floor is made of black and white Italian marble time laid out in a checkerboard style during the 1910.  It has been said that the entrance hall of Althorp was one of the most grand of the Georgian style country homes in England.

ALthorp - Wootton Hall

Special Note: Before leaving Wootton Hall, please notice the dozen elegant hall porter chairs lining the perimeter of the space.  One of the original chairs was found discarded in the Stable Block in 1911; the chair was brought from Spencer House in London for safekeeping during the Blitz.

Interesting Fact:  The acoustics in the Wootton Hall are excellent and for this reason a teenage Diana Spencer (the future Princess of Wales) liked to practice tap dancing in this area of Althorp.

The Saloon –

The Saloon is located adjacent to Wootton Hall and was originally the open inner courtyard of Althorp where carriages would arrive and guests would disembark into the house.  In the 1660s, a roof was put over the area and as a result of the courtyard enclosure a beautiful walnut staircase was installed.   In the late 1800s, the chandeliers were wired for light and the Saloon became the first room in Althorp to have electricity.

Althorp - Grand Staircase     Althorp - the Saloon

The South Drawing Room –

The South Drawing Room is located in the west wing of Althorp.  The room retains an elegant Georgian style; the walls are a beautiful shade of blue, there are dark green window curtains, a large gilded framed mirror is positioned between the windows and the room is furnished with peach floral patterned sofas.  The stone fireplace was built in 1802 and the plaster ceiling was done in 1865.  This room is also known as the Rubens Room because there are four paintings by Peter Paul Rubens hanging on the walls, there are also fifteen Joshua Reynolds portraits.

Althorp - South Drawing Room    Althorp - South Drawing Room - miniature collection

Special Note:  Located in one of the room’s alcoves is a collection of miniature portraits displayed in a cabinet, take a close look to find one of Admiral Lord Nelson.

The Sutherland Room –

The Sutherland Room is located in the east wing of Althorp.  When the house was first built centuries ago, it was once customary for the owners to occupy the ground floor to use as bedrooms and the guest bedrooms would be on the upper floor.  The room has the original moulding and the fireplace in the room was originally from the Spencer House in London.  The current paintings in the room were chosen to honor John “Jack” Spencer, the 3rd Earl of Spencer, and reflect his passion for foxhunting.  After the room ceased being used as a bedroom was used as just another reception room in the house.

Althorp - Sutherland Room

Interesting Fact:  Traditionally, the Sutherland room has been decorated specifically for the children of Althorp on Christmas Day.  There would be a fully decorated Christmas tree and mechanical Santas, snowmen and angels would be placed around the room as festive holiday decorations.  As a special treat for the children, individual cakes were set out in the room with the names of the children written in icing.

The Marlborough Room –

The Marlborough Room is located next to the Sunderland Room and adjacent to the Library.  The room is named to honor Sarah Churchill, Duchess of Marlborough.  Since the 1900s, the room has been used for large formal dinners, the Victorian rosewood dining table can accommodate up to 42 guests.  Previously, the space had been divided into two different rooms, one was used as a reception room and the other was the old billiard room.  In the 1950s as part of a restoration project at Althrop, two chimney pieces from Spencer House were installed in the room.

Althorp - Marlborough Room

Special Note:  The portraits of various Spencer ancestors painted by famed artist such as Thomas Gainsborough, Joshua Reynolds and George Romney are hung in the Marlborough Room.

The Great Dining Room –

The Great Dining Room was part of the east wing extension which was built back in 1877.  The relatively small room is said to have gotten inspiration for the red damask silk wall coverings from the much larger and grander ballroom of Buckingham Palace.  The two large tapestries cover the oak paneling that was originally from another property of the Spencers owned and it was brought to Althorp specifically for installation in this room.

The Library –

The Library is located on the first floor in the west wing of Althorp, it is sometimes referred to as the “Long Library”.  When George Spencer (2nd Earl of Spencer) inherited the estate, he was very interested in his literary pursuits and his book collection turned the Althorp library into the one of the largest private libraries in Europe.  As George became an old man, his book collecting became an obsession as he attempted to collect every volume published in Britain.  Five rooms at Althorp were needed to store the large collection and eventually the rooms were combined into one long 200 feet by 20 feet room, hence the name of “Long Library”. The ceiling of the original library collapsed in 1773, it was replaced and a new floor was also installed.

Althorp - Long Library

Unfortunately, by the time of George’s death in 1834 he was deeply in debt and a major portion of the collection was sold to the University of Manchester.  The books seen in the library today on a tour of Althorp were fairly recent acquisitions and the dark and rich colored spines of the books are beautifully displayed against the off-white painted shelving.

The Picture Gallery –

The Picture Gallery is located on the first floor of the west wing at Althorp.  The Picture Gallery is most famous for the collection of 60 portraits, 10 of those portraits are Sir Peter Lely paintings of King Charles II ten mistresses that have become known as “The Windsor Beauties”.  The 115 feet by 21 feet room is decorated with lovely oak paneling and oak flooring which at one time was painted white, fortunately the paint was removed during a restoration project in 1904

Althorp - Picture Gallery

Special Note:  The Picture Gallery has a wonderful collection of paintings, including Van Dyck painting “War and Peace”, John de Critz portrait of King James I and Mary Beale portrait of Charles II (where he is forever joined with “The Windsor Beauties”)

Interesting Fact: In Tudor times, the room’s dimensions were put good use when during inclement weather the ladies would use the Gallery to promenade (walking as a form of exercise and socialization) indoors to avoid soiling their dresses in the rain and mud.

The Oak Bedroom –

The Oak Bedroom is located on the first floor to the rear of the west wing at Althorp.  The room is beautifully decorated with crimson wallpaper, a polished oak floor and repeated in the room several times is the Spencer “S” most notably on the blue velvet bed cover, above the large bed and near the fireplace.

Althorp - Oak Bedroom

Interesting Fact:  The room was the site of an important event in the history of the Spencer family.  On the night of December 20, 1755, during a ball being held in celebration of John Spencer’s 21st birthday, the first Earl of Spencer secretly married Margaret Georgiana in the Oak Bedroom.

The Princess of Wales Bedroom –

The Princess of Wales Bedroom, as most people would assume, was not named for Diana but another beloved Princess of Wales.  It was Princess Alexandra, the wife of the future King Edward VII who came to visit the 5th Earl of Spencer (the Red Earl) at Althorp in 1863.  The room was renovated in 1911 ad retains a distinct Georgian style of decoration.  The large and luxurious bed is draped in fabric originally designed during the renovation.  Two portraits of note in the room are the painting by Spanish artist Murillo of a young princess and the other is a painting by the School of Leonardo da Vinci of a young lady that bears a striking resemblance to the Mona Lisa.

Althorp - Princess of Wales Bedroom

(For more information on Alexandra, the Princess of Wales, please click on the link)

The Queen Mary Bedroom –

The Queen Mary Bedroom is named for Queen Mary, the wife of King George V who visited Althorp in 1913.  The centerpiece of the room is the tall bed which is draped in green taffeta and designed in an 18th century style.  An item of note in the room are two antique chairs with needlework design and personally created by Albert Spencer, the 7th Earl of Spencer who was the Chairman of the Royal School of Needlework.

Althorp Queen Mary Bedroom

Interesting Fact:  As a side note regarding Queen Mary, she was a horrible houseguest in regards to the fact that when she would visit the stately homes around England she was always on the search for interesting and sometimes valuable items.  She would strongly hint at her desire for a particular item belonging to her hosts, ultimately they would feel obligated to give her the item as a gift.  In this way Queen Mary acquired many excellent pieces of furnishing and art objects at no cost which she used to decorate her own home.

The Grounds –

The Althorp estate covers over 13,000 acres of land in Northampshire.  Besides the main house there are 28 other buildings and structures located on the property.  The estate is beautifully landscaped first by Henry Holland in the 1780s and then by William Teulon in the late 1800s.  After Diana’s death in 1997, when the Memorial was moved to its current site, Dan Pearson was commissioned to upgrade the park and gardens to accommodate the increased number of visitors that would be coming to Althorp.  Pearson planted 36 oak trees along the access road to commemorate Diana’s age at the time of her death.  Over one hundred white water lilies were added to waters of the Round and one hundred white roses were planted on the island which is Diana’s final resting place.

Althorp - Round Oval Island

Special Note:  After Diana’s separation and subsequent divorce from Prince Charles, the Prince of Wales, was finalized in 1996 she had considered moving to a small cottage known as the Gardener’s House, on the Althorp estate.  It seems that the request was denied by her brother, Charles Spencer, who is the current owner of Althorp.  He claimed that the Diana’s move to Althorp would cause innumerable security problems.  This decision had created a friction between Diana and her brother and their relationship was strained and intermittent at the time of Diana’s death.

Interesting Fact:  The story of the famed Spencer Sweet Pea began back in 1901 when the 5th Earl of Spencer’s chief gardener, Silas Cole, cultivated a variety of sweet pea that produced large pink flowers with wavy edged petals which he named the “Countess Spencer”.  This variety of sweet pea has been growing on the Althrop estate now for almost 115 years.

The Round Oval and Diana Memorial –

The lake located on the Althorp estate, known as the Round Oval, was constructed in 1868.  The Doric-style Temple located south of the Round Oval was original located in the gardens of Admiralty House in London.  It was commissioned by George Spencer, the 2nd Earl of Spencer, to celebrate the British naval victory led by Rear-Admiral Horatio Nelson over General Napoleon Bonaparte French forces in the Battle of the Nile in 1798.

The Temple was moved to Althorp in 1926 and after the death of Princess Diana it was rededicated to her memory.  The Temple now bears the name of Diana which is inscribed at the top and it contains a large black marble silhouette of the Princess set on white marble and placed in the middle of the Temple.  The large medallion is flanked by two large stone tablets, one inscribed with a quote from Diana regarding her charity work and the other is inscribed with Charles Spencer’s speech given at his sister’s funeral in 1997.

Althorp - Diana Memorial    

The small island located in the middle of the Round Oval is the final resting place of Diana, the Princess of Wales.  After the overwhelming grief of the public over her tragic death and taking into account the endless media pursuit in her public life and lack of privacy regarding her personal life, Charles Spencer decided that the best place for her gravesite.  The choice of her burial on the island not only provided privacy that had been denied to Diana during her lifetime from the intrusive media coverage but it also gave dignity to her final resting place with some distance from well-meaning but sometimes obsessive public and the island is deemed off limits to anyone without the permission of Charles Spencer.  Her burial place is marked by a simple white memorial column with a stone urn on top; there is no headstone at the gravesite.

Althorp - Diana memorial 1

Althorp - Round Oval Island 1

The Stable Block –

The Stable Block was originally designed by architect Roger Morris in the early 1730s commissioned by Charles, the 5th Earl of Sutherland.  The building’s Palladian style of architecture was said to have been inspired by Morris’ own horse stable in Convent Garden.  The decorative fountain in the courtyard was installed to provide water for the horse troughs.  The interior included several stalls for the estates’ numerous horses, a bath area for the riders to use after hunting, a veterinarian’s room and storage area.

Althorp - Stable Block

After the death of Diana, the Stable Block was converted into an exhibition hall dedicated to the memory of the Princess of Wales.  Six separate exhibit areas were created within the old stable complex.  The first exhibit was the “Spencer Women” which highlighted the ancestral heritage of the women of Althorp with several displays showcasing jewelry, personal items and two large portraits, one painting of Sarah, Duchess of Marlbourough, and the other of Georgiana Spencer.

The second exhibit area plays a video of Diana ad a child, including rare footage of her christening and first birthday as well as additional footage showing her swimming, dancing and playing with her animals.  Displayed around the room are her old toys, ballet shoes and other childhood items.

The next exhibit focuses on the July 29, 1981  at St. Paul’s Cathedral in London.  Displayed in this room is Diana’s voluminous wedding dress designed by Emanuel and other items of her wedding ensemble.  There is also a special display that showcases the Spencer Tiara which Diana wore on her wedding day.  (For more information about the wedding of Diana and Charles or Diana’s wedding dress, please click on the links)

Althorp - Diana's wedding dress displayAlthorp - Spencer Tiara display    Althorp - Spencer Tiara display 1

The fourth exhibit documents Diana’s extensive charity and humanitarian work.  The next exhibit, which is known as the “Tribute Room”, documents the days between Diana’s death, funeral and burial at Althorp.

The final area was the “Diana: A Celebration” exhibit with large glass display cases showing many of Diana’s most notable dresses and gowns with information cards indicating the when and where she wore the clothing items.  One unique display is filled with the condolence books that were signed by hundreds of thousands of people who express their feelings about Diana and offer their sympathy to the Spencer family.

Althrop - Diana - A Celebration exhibit

The Althorp house and estate is opened to the public annually during the months of July and August but in 2013 the Stable Block and exhibitions closed permanently.  The Princess of Wales Memorial Fund which received the profits from the exhibition had previously closed in 2012.  At that time, Althorp needed to address the concern about the exploitation of Diana and more importantly there was a need to suppress the public’s obsession with Diana.  It is said that the personal belongings that were part of the exhibition would be packed and eventually returned to her sons, Prince William and Prince Harry.